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BRBO International LoneStar

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Posted (edited)

My deal for a fire engine is on hold. I did get this in the mail today so it is the kit I will be going with. I hope I didn't bite off more than I can chew. If it turns out close to my vision I will be happy.

There are a few things I know I will need help and advice with along the way.

lonestar.jpg

Edited by DPNM

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Looking forward to seeing this go together.

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I think I'd prefer to see it being built than the one doing the building Samrofl.gif.287e1611b013774af59f5c706789729a.gif.

This kit is daunting to me. It will be my biggest parts count kit to build and my first non Snap semi.

Two things I already know I will need help with:

First, I read a build review of this kit and it was recommended to find the instructions from the Revell Lonestar to at least build the engine as the Moebious ones aren't that clear. A scan of the Revell engine instructions would help me if anyone has them.

Second, more than likely I will need to lengthen the frame a bit. Never done it/don't know how.

Advice on when to cut it (before the frame is assembled or after), where to cut it (best location to hide the seams as I really do need to improve my bondo work) and any other tips to do it that I am more'n likely unaware of.

Thanks in advance. Jim

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Posted (edited)

It’s a great kit, but do yourself a favor and find the Revell instructions for it ( hopefully they are still on-line) , the moebius directions are kind of vague in some areas. They do build up very nice though. 
 

also of note , the mounts for the front of the floor are never the correct height ( pro Star has the same issue), they have a tab on them that fits into a notch in the floor, I sand the tab off to start with, once your cab is complete, you may need to sand more off the mounts to get everything level, just ask me how I know, haha.

 

looks like you beat me to the Revell instruction thing, they used to be on revell’s website, maybe still there?

Edited by tbill
Added info

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The frame on this kit is pretty long as is, what’re you thinking build-wise?

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Posted (edited)

A car type hauler using the silver one. The red one and the frame behind it are from the Ford Car Hauler kit just for length comparison.

And if anyone knows what kit the silver one is from I would be thrilled to know. I've had it for I do not know how many years. I must have been saving it for this build.

haulerbed.jpg

Edited by DPNM

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Wow Pierre, that was fast!

Thank you very much. This will indeed help me.

 

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The size of the flatbed almost reminds me of the floor in the hide out / papa truck haulers .

Your all set on the better ( much ) instructions they'll definitely help build it . 

Mocking up the frame then laying your desired ramp floor near it will help decide how much frame to stretch. We'll all chime in to help there, its actually pretty easy. I prefer to build the entire frame,  then find suitable spot and cut apart. Helps me visualize how much I want to add 

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Thanks Jeff. I know I will have a better idea once I start to get into it. A bit before the time I'll be ready to tackle the frame stretch I'll be looking for the help. I have to start unboxing the kit yet. All I've done is open the box and poke around a bit.

 

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Don’t let the kit intimidate you, it’s like any other kit, you build it one piece at a time , and I like your idea.

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I have this kit also, so for sure I'll be watching your progress!..Joe.

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Thanks Joe! If it goes according to plan it should turn into a wild ride.

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That truck was a bold move by International. I am so glad someone captured it in plastic and glad that you are going to turn it into something great. 

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Almost bought a Lonestar but ended up with a W900L instead.

This'll be an interesting build.

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13 hours ago, Oldmopars said:

That truck was a bold move by International. I am so glad someone captured it in plastic and glad that you are going to turn it into something great. 

If I can turn it into something great, time will tell. I'm gonna try Scott.

For years my two favorite trucks have been the 1.) Kenworth Aerodyne COE and 2.) the KW Aerodyne conventional. When this truck came out it jumped up on the list. The first time I saw one on the road it reminded me of something. It reminds me of it each time I see one on the road. What it reminds me of is going to be the basis/theme of this build.

In the back of my mind I'd like a wee bit more time than til August but I need to stay off the computer and get on the workbench. I have the load this semi will be carrying that I need to build for it too. Plus I'm in the CBR. IIRC I have til November to finish the CBR so if I build steady I should be good. I need to paint outside and that is my biggest factor.

 

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This is a great model, for sure.... I've built 2, and I really like it...

If I were to give a bit of advice to save time without sacrificing the look, it would be the little clear lights you have to install all over the place.... Forget about 'em.... Use Testors white glue and add a drop in each of those little holes....Make sure they are all laid flat, now.... Let them dry, overnight and do it, again.... Then you will have great looking lights without the headache of cutting all of those little plastic pieces from the sprues.....Super simple and a serious time saver...

I have a few pics, if you would like to see the finished product... Or maybe, the threads are still here...

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34 minutes ago, gotnitro? said:

Great tip !  I recall that from your previous builds 

 

Thanks, Bud...

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I'd love to see some pics JT.  I will take all the advice I can get.

I haven't put glue to plastic yet as I found that my workbench was much too cluttered. I barely had room for a 1/25th model and this will dwarf that once it starts moving along. I now have about a 30" X 20" work area to use. I had to move almost all my tools to a different area and I'm still sorting that out. I'm continuing to formulate my plan for this build too. I should be able to start on the engine soon.

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The biggest thing about frame construction is keeping it from ending up curved.  It is very easy to do unless you are careful.  When I have built frames I have glued all of the cross members to one side first.  Then the opposite frame rail is glued in one cross member at time checking frequently to be sure that the first rail is not curving.  If it curves you cannot get the curve out after all of the cross members are glued in place.  So take you time of this part.  Build the frame on a good flat surface also so that it won't be warped.  You also want to be sure that all of the cross members are even and at right angles to the frame rail.

Lengthening a frame is a different proposition altogether.  First determine the amount of length you need to add.  Then cut both frame rails in a place where it won't be obvious.  I'd do this after the frame in its original length has been put together and the glue as set well.  Then take a piece of plastic strip stock and glue a section of it to the inside of one frame member.   Make sure it is long enough to overlap the new joint by at least a half inch on both ends.  Do the same to the other side of the frame half that you glued the first one to.  On one side mark on the plastic strip the amount you want to lengthen the frame starting at the end of the frame where you cut it.

Now take the second frame piece and place it with the plastic strip inside the frame so that the end of the second frame is where you made the mark.  Make sure the two frame sections line up and clamp the sections together.  When one side is in alignment, glue the plastic strip to the second frame piece.   Note this all occurs on one side of the frame.

Then do the same to the other side of the frame after the first side glue has set well.  This is where checking and re-checking is important to be sure that you don't introduce curvature in the frame and that both sides are square to each other.  Make sure also that before you glue the second side that it is not warped.

After this is all done you can add strip stock to the web and flanges of the frame where you made the extension.  A bit of sanding and filling should make the extension invisible after priming.

Hope this helps.  Probably sounds a lot more daunting than it really is.  Here's an example of a stretched frame I did for aType 0-5 crash truck.  Two frames have been spliced with the white plastic piece showing.  The other side has been filled with putty.

006.JPG.c9175400afb03efe9d7bcaed465269c4.JPG

 

And here is a better look at a frame I lengthened from a '26 AC Mack to build a Mack AP.  On the far frame rail you can see the splice much better with pieces inserted for the flanges as well as the strip on the inside.  You can't see it behind the fishplate but there would be a similar piece of strip plastic on the outside of the frame as well and would be the same length as the pieces used on the flanges.  That would get sanded smooth with the rest of the frame web and the seams filled with putty.

017.JPG.67edb42c9c3689b124bdb00cafce77de.JPG

 

 

Edited by Chariots of Fire

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WOW!!!! Charles your work always looks amazing!

Looking forward to what you come up with Jim!

Edited by DRIPTROIT 71

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Thank you Charles, your process should help me. I appreciate you taking the time to explain it. I doubt it is that difficult and I do understand the importance of keeping the frame square.

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Sorry this won't be much of an update but it's where I'm at. I started to assemble the engine and realized that I should paint it as I build it. I believe that if I glue too many parts together I won't be able to get paint in all the nooks and crannies so bare plastic may show. Or I'll get runs etc trying to do it. I learned to use an airbrush in the '70s and have always used lacquer. I understand what I can and can't do with lacquer and I understand most of it's pluses and minuses. I paint outside mostly because of my cat. I don't think he needs a lacquer buzz. I'm in the process of trying to make a paint booth setup but that is just a bit in the future yet. I need to start using water based paint. I've put it off far too long but now is as good a time as any. Actually, more so.

This is going to involve a real learning curve for me. I have some spare bodies to practice on. I have decided to go with one system. I'll be using Createx paints. I like the various options in their line. I've been watching their videos on how to thin, primer, mix etc. I hope to start spraying here shortly. I still need to buy a couple more things yet. I had painted a hard hat once using water base and I didn't like it. I did not do enough research on it and that is why I got an unpleasant result. I figure I can paint everything on this build except the cab and related parts (I have the lacquer based paints I plan to use there already) with water base. This should definitely help me in the long run.

And not that I haven't done anything, I got the parts together to make a winch for the bed. I'm not sure what is on the tail of the bed now but I guess it's supposed to be some sort a winch representation?!? I still have a couple tweeks I need to do to it yet and one is painting it, go figure. This thing caused me much consternation. I had to remake it 3 times to get it this far. The rubber band is just holding it together for the pic of course.
 


 

winch01.jpg

Edited by DPNM

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