espo Posted January 21, 2020 Share Posted January 21, 2020 (edited) 6 hours ago, Cool Hand said: Done yesterday, but only got round to posting today. Having to work on the under side of the Mustang was challenging with just sitting it on the roof whilst trying to do stuff. But found a solution https://youtu.be/1g4lh2VdGdY. Grab a few parts tree's. Worked out a rough size and came up with this. I use a section of soft foam rubber that is 12" long and 5" wide for just this sort of work. The bottom side is slightly wider for stability and the top side has two valleys running length wise so that the model can be positioned and held in place by the texture of the foam. This works great when applying Decals or foiling body trim. I think I got it from Micro parts catalog years ago. Inexpensive and you just bang it on your pants leg to dislodge anything clinging to it. I like your engineering on this and it serves the same purpose and cost next to nothing in parts. Edited January 21, 2020 by espo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snake45 Posted January 21, 2020 Author Share Posted January 21, 2020 6 hours ago, Cool Hand said: At this point, I thought maybe you were building a 1/4 scale milk crate! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Modlbldr Posted January 21, 2020 Share Posted January 21, 2020 Back to work this morning and waiting for the day to get rollin'. Got a bit more done on the engine for the AR GTA. I'm liking this Tamiya kit. Later- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StevenGuthmiller Posted January 22, 2020 Share Posted January 22, 2020 I nearly finished the engine for my '68 442 W-30 today. Just a few minor details to work out before the engine goes into the chassis. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Modlbldr Posted January 23, 2020 Share Posted January 23, 2020 Busy day at work today. Only managed to get some panel line accent down and spark plugs wires started. Later- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cobraman Posted January 23, 2020 Share Posted January 23, 2020 I managed to get the scratch built hot rod body painted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe Handley Posted January 23, 2020 Share Posted January 23, 2020 Well, started customizing an AMT 1/32 '60 T-Bird kit today. Got it dropped (cut the posts cut off and raised the wheels) to the deck, shaved the Bird emblems , scripts, and quarter panel trim. Just need to figure out if the handles can be sanded without screwing up the fins. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ramfins59 Posted January 23, 2020 Share Posted January 23, 2020 I put a lot of finishing touches on a 1941 Plymouth that I'm making as a "Resto-Rod". I started this about 3 weeks ago and it should be completely done tomorrow... Pictures will come then, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lunajammer Posted January 23, 2020 Share Posted January 23, 2020 18 hours ago, StevenGuthmiller said: This looks great Steve. Your washes are almost perfect. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StevenGuthmiller Posted January 23, 2020 Share Posted January 23, 2020 (edited) 14 minutes ago, Lunajammer said: This looks great Steve. Your washes are almost perfect. Thanks Mike! This wash was nothing more than a combination of brown and black acrylic craft paint thinned by about half, or a little more. I used the same wash for all of the parts, regardless of the paint color, and then went over the high spots with a damp Q-tip after the wash had dried a while. Anyone can do it.......even me! Steve Edited January 23, 2020 by StevenGuthmiller Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lunajammer Posted January 23, 2020 Share Posted January 23, 2020 1 hour ago, StevenGuthmiller said: Anyone can do it.......even me! Thanks for the specific info. I've not been satisfied with the various home enamel based slurries or store bought products over the years. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StevenGuthmiller Posted January 23, 2020 Share Posted January 23, 2020 52 minutes ago, Lunajammer said: Thanks for the specific info. I've not been satisfied with the various home enamel based slurries or store bought products over the years. Me neither. I use this Ceramcoat acrylic craft paint for a lot of different applications, including panel lines and grille washes. It's extremely forgiving. If you don't like the results, you just wash it off with a little warm water. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Straightliner59 Posted January 24, 2020 Share Posted January 24, 2020 Opened the roof on the '31, and started working on the wood header. It's likely I won't use this one, as it's a mule to test wrapping the header with tooling aluminum. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisBcritter Posted January 25, 2020 Share Posted January 25, 2020 Got the '60 Ford pickup mostly dismantled and very gently removed the hood side emblems; got more to do because that glass is IN there and so is the bed floor. It's kind of a gluebomb but better than some I've seen or had/have. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Geiger Posted January 25, 2020 Share Posted January 25, 2020 The 24 Hour Build starts in 15 minutes so I should get a lot done today into tomorrow! I am building the Falcon Modified Stocker. Yes, it's a turd of a kit but that will be part of the challenge! https://www.facebook.com/groups/774303692944365/?fref=nf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Geiger Posted January 25, 2020 Share Posted January 25, 2020 5 hours ago, ChrisBcritter said: Got the '60 Ford pickup mostly dismantled and very gently removed the hood side emblems; got more to do because that glass is IN there and so is the bed floor. It's kind of a gluebomb but better than some I've seen or had/have. If the glass is in there tight and it looks good, mask it off. I've done that before with restorations. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StevenGuthmiller Posted January 25, 2020 Share Posted January 25, 2020 Okay, you tell me if this is a little overly ambitious. I got to looking at the dash on my '68 442 project in comparison to some reference photos, and realized that there is a thin piece of trim running around the circumference of a portion of the dashboard that is not present on the kit part. Being as the dash is already painted, it makes it much more difficult to add anything at this point, but I thought if I could bend some very thin sprue to the correct shape, spray it with some Alclad, and then figure out a way to get it glued in without marring any surfaces, I could remedy this. Any suggestions on the best way to try to glue this in place without damaging either the finish on the dash, or the trim? I suppose if it all goes south, I can re-shoot the dash and foil the trim. What do you think? Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
935k3 Posted January 25, 2020 Share Posted January 25, 2020 Looks great Steve. I would use thinned PVA carefully brushed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JollySipper Posted January 25, 2020 Share Posted January 25, 2020 51 minutes ago, StevenGuthmiller said: Any suggestions on the best way to try to glue this in place without damaging either the finish on the dash, or the trim? If you made that piece from wire, maybe you could get the wires tension to hold it in place......... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StevenGuthmiller Posted January 25, 2020 Share Posted January 25, 2020 8 minutes ago, JollySipper said: If you made that piece from wire, maybe you could get the wires tension to hold it in place......... Possibly. But I would want to glue it somehow regardless. I wouldn't want to rely on tension holding it in place indefinitely. I've been thinking about it, and my thought is to mix some 5 minute clear epoxy, spread a thin amount on the back of each trim piece, and then let it set up until just barely tacky. That way I should be able to position the pieces without any glue slop. I do like the idea of wire though. It would give a more chrome-like finish and might hold it's shape a little better than the plastic. I thought that plastic might be easier to adhere into place than wire, so I thought that I would give this a shot first. Anyway, I'm foiling and detailing this portion of the dash before I try to install the trim pieces so that I don't take the risk of jostling anything loose afterwards. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bills72sj Posted January 25, 2020 Share Posted January 25, 2020 39 minutes ago, StevenGuthmiller said: Possibly. But I would want to glue it somehow regardless. I wouldn't want to rely on tension holding it in place indefinitely. I've been thinking about it, and my thought is to mix some 5 minute clear epoxy, spread a thin amount on the back of each trim piece, and then let it set up until just barely tacky. That way I should be able to position the pieces without any glue slop. I do like the idea of wire though. It would give a more chrome-like finish and might hold it's shape a little better than the plastic. I thought that plastic might be easier to adhere into place than wire, so I thought that I would give this a shot first. Anyway, I'm foiling and detailing this portion of the dash before I try to install the trim pieces so that I don't take the risk of jostling anything loose afterwards. Steve I would suggest using Testors windowmaker. I wicks really well and dries clear. It also helps with the piece appearing attached instead of floating. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron W. Posted January 26, 2020 Share Posted January 26, 2020 I had a 1950 Ford convertible I did years ago in gold. Made a Carson top from the half top , and the convertible top front half. Looked nice...but after a while looking at the same car with all the custom parts, and the large oversized fender skirts {what was I thinking ?} Well I got it tore apart. Removed those big round taillights. Smaller skirts, found the bumpers, and brackets. Repainted the roof.Just have to repair damage to the rear taillight panel. The interior has to be stripped of paint yet. It's at least in primer. That's when I feel that I've accomplished something, don't you ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldnslow Posted January 26, 2020 Share Posted January 26, 2020 Steve , the same trim is on the 72 Chevelle I built , I used some .015 solder to make the trim (got it from Radio Shack) , it's already shiny silver and holds it's place , put it on with clear fingernail polish . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StevenGuthmiller Posted January 26, 2020 Share Posted January 26, 2020 Thanks guys. I decided to follow TJ's initial advice and use the wire instead of plastic. It added a little more time to the effort, but I think it turned out well and was the correct decision. The dash is now finished except for the addition of a glove box button. Steve 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stitchdup Posted January 26, 2020 Share Posted January 26, 2020 added some new shelving to my model area and on top of my bench with led strips under the lower shelf. This was still a bit dull so i used chrome heating tape to make a reflector and no its plenty bright to work under but with the lights out of view from my eyes. I decided to put the one set of shelves on top of my bench because I never really use the whole bench anyway. Now I can see what kits I have without having to pull other boxes out of the way. I even sorted them into countries mainly but all my vw/porsche/audi/skoda/etc family of kits are above the bench now, and I have my resin kits all together instead of scattered into any available space. Still a little tidying up to do and a board to fit along the bottom of the shelves to avoid parts going under and being lost but I'm nearly there Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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