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Snake45

What Did You Accomplish Today? (Model Car Work)

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Well, Last night I started customizing one of the RC2/Stevens International ‘39/‘40 Ford Tudor Sedan kits I bought 15 years ago, almost all the same body mods I’m doing to the ‘68 Beetle kit I bought Saturday plus using the Pegasus chrome reverse wheels and narrow whitewalls Did also find that I should be able to make the ‘39 headlights and trim work inverted on the Beetle with some work on that part of the VW front fenders, then use the ‘39 grill and mold the ‘40 headlights to the front fenders on the Sedan then do something to lower the rear some.

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I made myself a little body stand out of wire and wood block to hold car/truck bodies when I paint them. Got a 97 Trans Am body primed and will be putting the body color on the Ram VTS in a day or two. I had painted the TA body 20 years ago, and when I covered it to dry, the box I used touched the roof beam and left a spot of paper on the body. I stripped the paint last week.

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I got more work done to the compressor and pulleys, for the Pete. Maybe I can get some paint on this engine, in a week, or so.

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Assembled a chassis and engine to further along the mockup. There is a wood floor and interior back panel in it too.

I also started a workbench thread for this car.

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Just finished a WIP that's been on the go for 25+ years (so at least half my life, and considerably older than my children).

Very pleasing, but kind of odd not to have it hanging around half-finished. Photos to come later.

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Got '62 Newport #3 1/2 yesterday, and as the Royal Air Force mechanics say, converted it to components. Got the engine from #2 dismantled and somehow managed to saw off the fan, alternator and molded-on but off-center power steering pump without breaking any of the belts (but broke an exhaust manifold while sawing it off).

Did some research today and found Revell molded the wrong air cleaner for it; it's for a 318 Poly engine - '62-'66 era. I'll just borrow one off a Jo-Han Dodge/Plymouth along with the valve covers and TorqueFlite (the Revell trans is a 3-speed manual).

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The rear section of the Lego Land Rover Discovery is done, you can see the hubs on each side for the rear wheels, now to start the front, very similar but with the steering!

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Managed to make useful progress on all five currents WIPs:

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More detail painting and a bit of BMF done on Roadster bodyshell, front end of Toyota repainted and sunroofs sprayed with Tamiya Smoke, newly resurrected Ferrari's ride height rectified, Datsun Z got more primer and other components painted, and the Corvette reached a significant point with its paintwork and engine installation.

I'm not sure how I've ended up working on so many 2-seater sportscars, at 1:1 I much prefer saloons, estates and coupes.

In an ideal world I'd like to finish almost all of them during the remaining week of my holiday, I've already got several new projects in mind......

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23 hours ago, Tom Geiger said:

Cool! Nice array of colors!  

Thanks Tom.

Started applying an array of colours to the Z today:

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1:24 kit progress by Spottedlaurel, on Flickr

I'm hoping it will make sense once complete. Also did some detail/interior work on it.

A less exciting day on the Corvette after yesterday's achievements, just painting inside the bodyshell in preparation for BMF. I spent a bit more time on the Datsun Roadster with most of the foil work and detail painting done, plus did a few bits and bobs on the Ferrari.

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1:24 Tamiya Nissan Skyline GT-R R32 kit by Spottedlaurel, on Flickr

Also did a bit on this Skyline for my son. I'd got the bodyshell painted and polished as a reshell for one I built back in the '90s, but I have enough projects on the go and he finished a Tamiya 350Z yesterday so I'm handing the whole kit over to him. I primed everything and and painted the chassis in Tamiya Light Gunmetal to get him going.

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Imagine something incredibly small, well that's how close the Roadster got to being finished:

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1:24 Datsun Fairlady Roadster and 280Z kits by Spottedlaurel, on Flickr

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1:24 Datsun Fairlady Roadster and 280Z kits by Spottedlaurel, on Flickr

Probably shouldn't have messed around with the Z, but it's been fun seeing that one come together quickly.

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23 hours ago, Spottedlaurel said:

Imagine something incredibly small, well that's how close the Roadster got to being finished:

50186113101_3d7cc58eb5_b.jpg

1:24 Datsun Fairlady Roadster and 280Z kits by Spottedlaurel, on Flickr

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1:24 Datsun Fairlady Roadster and 280Z kits by Spottedlaurel, on Flickr

Probably shouldn't have messed around with the Z, but it's been fun seeing that one come together quickly.

Those look very good Nigel!

I got a bit more forward progress made on the Alfa. Today's session saw the engine bay and interior completed. Been doing the painting of the chassis parts .

Hopefully I'll have this one finished and presented to my wife by the end of the week.

Later-

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7 hours ago, Modlbldr said:

Those look very good Nigel!

I got a bit more forward progress made on the Alfa. Today's session saw the engine bay and interior completed. Been doing the painting of the chassis parts .

Hopefully I'll have this one finished and presented to my wife by the end of the week.

Thanks Tom, just about to nip out to the shed to finally complete the Roadster, and I look forward to seeing the Alfa finished!

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Got my “Long Armed Bandit” Traxxas Bandit Buggy R/C project I started around New Years up to this point in the last couple days. It started as a pile of aftermarket parts, eBay chop shop chassis and shocks to build something to run against my buddy’s Losi 8ight buggy when we would get together on Friday nights...... but got put on the back burner with all of what has been going on since mid-January.  
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This is what the high powered model normally looks like.

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Also figured it might be a good idea to finish this before I get the low powered Bandit model and a different set of parts to build one of these out of next.......

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🤔

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Had to throw together a quick power steering pump for my '64 Pontiac.

 

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Steve

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Nice Scratchbuilding Steve!

Did some resin casting today - needed some distributors that I can drill and wire, and I had a cool old leaf spring that I wanted a copy of so I could still build the kit it came from...and cast a couple of other bits whilst I was at it.

I’m no good at resin casting, but I like magically making the liquid in the bottles into model parts! 😂🧙‍♂️ 

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6 minutes ago, CabDriver said:

Nice Scratchbuilding Steve!

Did some resin casting today - needed some distributors that I can drill and wire, and I had a cool old leaf spring that I wanted a copy of so I could still build the kit it came from...and cast a couple of other bits whilst I was at it.

I’m no good at resin casting, but I like magically making the liquid in the bottles into model parts! 😂🧙‍♂️ 


 

 

Hi, Jim. Next time, before you pour your distributors, insert short lengths of wire insulation into the "lugs". Then, when you de-mold them, they will already be "drilled".  You can thank me, later! 🙂

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1 minute ago, Straightliner59 said:

Hi, Jim. Next time, before you pour your distributors, insert short lengths of wire insulation into the "lugs". Then, when you de-mold them, they will already be "drilled".  You can thank me, later!

That’s a GREAT tip!  I would’ve thought the resin would plug up the wire...but I guess it doesn’t huh?  Cool!  Thanks buddy!  Will try this tomorrow!

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23 minutes ago, CabDriver said:

That’s a GREAT tip!  I would’ve thought the resin would plug up the wire...but I guess it doesn’t huh?  Cool!  Thanks buddy!  Will try this tomorrow!

It does  not! I've been doing it, for decades, now. I would guess, though, that, even if it did, it would leave a nice dimple, to start the drill. However, I can't recall a single incident of that happening. If you find that your resin is too thick to flow around them, nicely, you can use acrylic nail resin (Sally Beauty Supply and some Walmarts carry it.)as a casting medium. If you have any questions, feel free to ask!

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10 minutes ago, Straightliner59 said:

It does  not! I've been doing it, for decades, now. I would guess, though, that, even if it did, it would leave a nice dimple, to start the drill. However, I can't recall a single incident of that happening. If you find that your resin is too thick to flow around them, nicely, you can use acrylic nail resin (Sally Beauty Supply and some Walmarts carry it.)as a casting medium. If you have any questions, feel free to ask!

Very helpful!  Thank you sir!  Will try this tomorrow!  Beats drilling the holes out!

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Started shooting another R/C body, instead of the simple single color paint like on the buggy, this is a 3 layer paint in some areas that will be backed by bed liner, then use the candy red from the 1st coat tinting the windows, Gasser style😈

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Wish I had thought of that tape loop on the roof to help hold onto the shell while painting a couple decades ago, though........

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Something a little odd. 

I bought a Flintstone Chevy coe, and went hmmm...

After digging through my parts boxes of 55 and 57 Chev pu's, I found one Cameo bed. And again went hmmm...

So other than the cab, this is a parts box build. I shortened the frame to accommodate the cab, and cootered together a lowered front suspension out of nascar suspension parts. Oh, and it will be curbside. I have most of the parts cleaned up of old glue and just about ready for the purple pond.  I have no clue on colors, wheels/ tires,  or if the rake will  be to much, but I managed to get the frame and suspension put together. 

I cannot stress "CURBSIDE" enough.

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12 hours ago, CabDriver said:

Very helpful!  Thank you sir!  Will try this tomorrow!  Beats drilling the holes out!

You are very welcome! And, yes, it does!

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