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Molotow 1mm pen on window frames / side trim


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I've just bought one and these pens and subsequently learnt a lot of people on here use them for small detailed parts like window winders and not for the outside trim so much

However, this is exactly why I bought the pen so would like to persevere before maybe buying some foil

So does anyone have any tips for using the pen on external trim areas? I haven't got an airbrush so want to use it as is

I've tried some 3mm masking tape but it's automotive quality and allows some leak-through

I've seen a video using the 2mm pen around windows and I wonder if that is easier as it has a soft tip

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I’ve had good results going slowly with a steady hand, but that doesn’t always work. If you get a tiny bit where it’s not suppose to be, you can usually gently scrape it off with a hobby knife tip.

The stuff has good surface tension so it usually goes only where you put it and stays there. Sometimes stubborn to coax it into spots, but better than it running everywhere like crazy.

But for masking, you can try Molotow Masking Liquid, it also comes in a pen. Or, any number of actual masking tape varieties of various widths. But, some of the best masking comes from using, ironically, BMF for masking.

It’s a bit more of a hassle, but to prevent paint from bleeding under the tape, a good tip is to lay the tape, then seal it with a spray of clear, then paint as usual.

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I have a 1mm 2mm and 3mm and almost always use the 2mm. I will use the 1mm in corners the 2 is to big for and the 3mm for bumpers and such. This GTX is a rehab of a kit I originally built 20+ years ago, all the chrome on it is from a molotow pen even the bumpers... The wetter you apply it the better it looks and do it last it’s not handling friendly 

10484FA3-A422-4740-B2F3-11CD8FEE09FE.jpeg

E8AA244F-8D01-414B-90C0-E455F12D3B8F.jpeg

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11 hours ago, SCRWDRVR said:

I have a 1mm 2mm and 3mm and almost always use the 2mm. I will use the 1mm in corners the 2 is to big for and the 3mm for bumpers and such. This GTX is a rehab of a kit I originally built 20+ years ago, all the chrome on it is from a molotow pen even the bumpers... The wetter you apply it the better it looks and do it last it’s not handling friendly 

10484FA3-A422-4740-B2F3-11CD8FEE09FE.jpeg

E8AA244F-8D01-414B-90C0-E455F12D3B8F.jpeg

Those bumpers look great. Impressive to see what these pens can do. 

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12 hours ago, SCRWDRVR said:

I have a 1mm 2mm and 3mm and almost always use the 2mm. I will use the 1mm in corners the 2 is to big for and the 3mm for bumpers and such. This GTX is a rehab of a kit I originally built 20+ years ago, all the chrome on it is from a molotow pen even the bumpers... The wetter you apply it the better it looks and do it last it’s not handling friendly 

10484FA3-A422-4740-B2F3-11CD8FEE09FE.jpeg

E8AA244F-8D01-414B-90C0-E455F12D3B8F.jpeg

How did you maintain a neat edge? Was it all freehand?

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For larger parts, like bumpers, I use a paintbrush and the Molotov out of the refill tube.
This works even better when you paint the parts semi gloss black first.
For this, I use Revell semi gloss black from the tinlet, and also apply it with a paint brush.
If you stir the Revell paint well enough before you use it, it dries without any brush marks.

38812461931_18a5184ea4_z.jpg
 

Edited by Junkman
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I bought a couple 1mm pens.  The tip is pretty hard, so it doesn't conform very well.  I ended up screwinghte point off and using a paintbrush mostly.  The 1mm tip will work if you use a very light touch and follow a line.  But it can blob out too and make a bigger mess of your handiwork.   Last time I just bought a refill to be able to brush paint.  I'm better with a brush.  

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Bottom line is, without masking, it is no easier to get a good straight line with the pens than it was to brush paint trim with the old Testors chrome silver paint.

If your hands are not very steady, it's no different.

 

Foil is still the best way to go in my opinion, leaving the pens for particular touch up and small detail jobs.

 

 

 

Steve

 

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For those who are using the pen for body trim I have a question. Are you scribing or cutting in or what ever you want to call it along the edge of the molding. In a bygone era when about all we had was some Testors Chrome bottle paint and a brush I learned a technique of using a #11 to lightly scribe along the edge of the moldings. The paint and 000 brush I would use to flow the paint onto the molding and the line I had created with the #11 formed a dam for lack of a better term that the paint would flow up to but not beyond.  With the problems I see so many mentioning when using the pen or even brushing it on this may help with that problem. 

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16 minutes ago, espo said:

For those who are using the pen for body trim I have a question. Are you scribing or cutting in or what ever you want to call it along the edge of the molding. In a bygone era when about all we had was some Testors Chrome bottle paint and a brush I learned a technique of using a #11 to lightly scribe along the edge of the moldings. The paint and 000 brush I would use to flow the paint onto the molding and the line I had created with the #11 formed a dam for lack of a better term that the paint would flow up to but not beyond.  With the problems I see so many mentioning when using the pen or even brushing it on this may help with that problem. 

I have never heard of that but I must say that is one awesome tip I will try that. Thanks for sharing...

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On 1/13/2020 at 9:54 AM, StevenGuthmiller said:

Bottom line is, without masking, it is no easier to get a good straight line with the pens than it was to brush paint trim with the old Testors chrome silver paint.

Steve

I disagree. I find it's MUCH easier to get an even, straight line with a marker than with a brush. Plus which, you don't have to constantly stop and reload the thing, you just keep flowing it along. 

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23 minutes ago, LL3 Model Worx said:

Works great if your markers aren't duds like mine.

 

I have FAR more experience with Silver Sharpies than with Molotow, but so far, my two Molotows have worked exactly as advertised. Knock on wood. 

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4 minutes ago, Snake45 said:

I have FAR more experience with Silver Sharpies than with Molotow, but so far, my two Molotows have worked exactly as advertised. Knock on wood. 

I know I've beaten it to death already, but mine certainly have not.

I got one good use out of them and then they completely quit, with the exception of the odd spit and sputter here and there.

I really wish they had worked, because the ink within is pretty remarkable stuff.

Maybe I'll try them again someday, but at the price they charge, it's not really worth the gamble for me when I have other alternatives that always work, even if they are less convenient.

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1 hour ago, LL3 Model Worx said:

I know I've beaten it to death already, but mine certainly have not.

I got one good use out of them and then they completely quit, with the exception of the odd spit and sputter here and there.

I really wish they had worked, because the ink within is pretty remarkable stuff.

Maybe I'll try them again someday, but at the price they charge, it's not really worth the gamble for me when I have other alternatives that always work, even if they are less convenient.

My Go-To is the Silver Sharpie. Lots cheaper and less finicky (although less "chromy"). But the Molotow has been a must for me for a few jobs, and so far, it's worked well. 

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4 minutes ago, Snake45 said:

My Go-To is the Silver Sharpie. Lots cheaper and less finicky (although less "chromy"). But the Molotow has been a must for me for a few jobs, and so far, it's worked well. 

Yea, silver sharpie certainly has its uses.

I'm glad they work for you... I may give them another shot one day when the pain subsides and the memory fades lol.

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