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MPC 72 Pontiac GTO


Rotorbolt73

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Thanks. I'm just wanting to show that this kit can be built. Just takes some skill to pull it off. Hopefully , my build here will help out on the problem areas for others to tackle in a similar fashion.

Moving on, I kept noticing how the hood just sits on the body and slides off very easily when picked up or handled . Had to figure a way to hold it down better. Looking back on those hood notches I filled earlier , even though it's a 67 firewall , I figured those were put there for a reason..like hinges.

Digging in my parts again , I found these hinges ( wish I knew what kit these are from) with long posts at the rear. I then drilled two holes in the firewall to match where the hinge posts line up. So that when glued to the hood bottom they would act as a clamp to keep the hood from constantly falling off.the interior bucket had slots on the firewall portion already that lined up so the hinge posts could slide all the way through.  With these in place , the hood stays on. To remove it, Just lift the front and slide forward.

 

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Matt, this is AMAZING!!! I put a ton of work and extras into mine as well, but I didn’t have the guts to cut my rear bumper.  I cut the trunk side seams instead and spread the fenders out... the wide gaps look wrong, but the fit is better.  Yours is perfect.

I used the chassis and cut the fan shroud out of the AMT 69 442, as that was a perfect fit.  My engine was a conglomeration of parts box pieces, as I found the orange lump in the kit completely unusable.  In the end, the Cutlass chassis and spare parts engine gave me a far better result.

You’ve already far outdone me with your bumper fix.  I don’t want to hi jack your thread, but wanted to throw a couple ideas out of suitable replacement parts for the incredible work you’ve doing.   
I also got an aftermarket set of Pontiac rally wheels from Model Roundup and tires from Fireball for this build.  Here’s one pic of my engine and one of the outside.  Keep up the great job!!!

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On 2/10/2020 at 10:06 PM, slusher said:

Cool that’s what I build with!

Me too. But since some of my current tubes are over 10 years old, I sometimes mix a drop of Plastruct liquid into the dollup of Testors I dip my toothpick into. (I rarely ever apply glue to parts directly from the tube)

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Man that looks great .  I read the build thread a while back  cause I remember the trunk seem trick. 

I just took the plunge and cut the bumper..no fear..besides, I have three more of these in case it didn't come out right.. trying to build it with minimal parts box or extras so that others who might not have an extensive parts collection can have a pattern to go by.

Just seems some common sense parts were overlooked and missing. No radiator hoses in this kit, for instance. 

I like your decals too. The kit decals seem to be similar from a earlier release but do not have the white inside the stripe lines. Just black lines..disappointing as the old red box art build looked cool with those stripes.

Been busy at work this week and too tired to mess with it..but I still gotta modify the rear spoiler to match the pics of the real cars I've seen.

 

Edited by Rotorbolt73
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Got some time this morning to build on models. Moving on to the rear trunk wing..which is incorrect for a 72 from the pictures I've seen..so simple fix. 

Take the curved end stand pieces and cut the upper curved section off. I'll be using the lower straight section. Used a Dremel tool to carefully shape the cut end to match the curvature of the wing.  Glue into place about a 1/4 inch in. Trim a little off the back edge at an angle to keep the wing stands from overhanging off the rear trunk curve into the bumper . Since the wing is going body color anyway, I went ahead and glued it to the trunk lid. 

 

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Excellent tutorial Matt! I'm building that kit for the Cannonball Run and I'll use the body mods. I'm using modern size wheels and dropping mine down so I'm replacing the entire chassis. I had come up with a similar remedy for the rear axle but had clearance issues with the tires. Thanks loads!

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Great job so far! I'm going to tackle this one this summer, though I am going a different direction with it. Going to use a different chassis and engine and possibly even interior, but I'm sure I'll need to tackle the bumper/valance and spoiler issues, and you're fixes on those will be invaluable so thank you very much for sharing!

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On 2/22/2020 at 10:19 AM, Rotorbolt73 said:

Got some time this morning to build on models. Moving on to the rear trunk wing..which is incorrect for a 72 from the pictures I've seen..so simple fix. 

Take the curved end stand pieces and cut the upper curved section off. I'll be using the lower straight section. Used a Dremel tool to carefully shape the cut end to match the curvature of the wing.  Glue into place about a 1/4 inch in. Trim a little off the back edge at an angle to keep the wing stands from overhanging off the rear trunk curve into the bumper . Since the wing is going body color anyway, I went ahead and glued it to the trunk lid. 

 

 

 

 

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Be advised there should be thin end plates on the spoiler. (Assuming you wish to put forth the effort)

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Edited by Bills72sj
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Did some painting on the interior and engine while finishing up updates on another build. Been fighting a cold at the same time so progress is slowed ..but it's moving forward. I decided to do a tan interior like the box art. Used valspar flat 84230 rugged beige for the seats, door panels, dash and steering wheel. The engine block is done in duplicolor light metallic blue. 

 

 

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Edited by Rotorbolt73
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On 1/26/2020 at 12:21 AM, Bills72sj said:

I will be following. I have heard about the rear bumper being too wide. I did not know about the 67 chassis thing. I want to build every GTO '64 to '74. I am missing '71, '73 and '74. I will probably convince a '72 to become a '71. (maybe get her a fake ID)

The new body is too narrow. The original 1972 body is long gone.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Finished up the interior, engine and chassis .

Frame is painted Rust-Oleum hammered bronze. For the interior ,I had to trim down the bottom seat " tracks" and use a drill bit to angle the steering column hole in the dash. Otherwise ,the steering wheel will touch and sit right up against the seat causing a slight fitment problem..not to mention no leg room for a driver..the engine needed a couple small spacers for the pullys cause the alternator sits against the block. But don't space it out too much or the fan will hit against the radiator and lower chassis plate clearance cove under it..I went ahead and wired up the ignition with 26 guage floral wrapping wire and painted testors light yellow.

 

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Edited by Rotorbolt73
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Thanks. Been working a bunch and fight this darn cold still..so progress is still slow. Couldn't make a meeting tonight so I took the time to paint some parts and detail the rims. The master cylinder is from the parts box since I cut off the molded in one on the firewall. Got the body painted but it's still raining here and I want to get some outside pics of it..

 

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