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gks1964

1969 Allison Blue & Gold Charger 500

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Love this old (at my age I'll use vintage) detail photo's!

 

Gerald

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Trying to make the oil pan! Any thoughts on how to add the grooved details?

Gerald

DSCN0010 (3).JPG

DSCN0012 (2).JPG

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GREAT work on the pan!

As far as the grooves, they almost appear as ribs. You might want to consider some really thin (0.05 or 0.010) Plastruct or Evergreen strips 1/32nd width or thinner, if available or even some very small round stock welded in good and chamfered along the top, edges, and at the ends to blend them in.

John

Edited by john843

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One more piece of advice.  Leave the tube that will go across the frt of the engine cage off until your engine is in final. Otherwise you will have to remove it. Yours is looking killer too.

Edited by yellowsportwagon

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1 hour ago, john843 said:

GREAT work on the pan!

As far as the grooves, they almost appear as ribs. You might want to consider some really thin (0.05 or 0.010) Plastruct or Evergreen strips 1/32nd width or thinner, if available or even some very small round stock welded in good and chamfered along the top, edges, and at the ends to blend them in.

John

This !!!! Then cast this pan in resin 

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Evergreen makes very fine plastic rod. I use them in interiors to simulate bead rolls and they look great.

 

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A fellow modeler gave me the idea of using Evergreen V-Groove. I ordered some, I hope try that when it gets here. The pan still needs some shaping and fine tuning.  If it turns out good I may cast the oil pan and oil tank both, to use in future projects.

 

Gerals

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6 minutes ago, gks1964 said:

A fellow modeler gave me the idea of using Evergreen V-Groove. I ordered some, I hope try that when it gets here. The pan still needs some shaping and fine tuning.  If it turns out good I may cast the oil pan and oil tank both, to use in future projects.

 

Gerals

Or sell to me?😜

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2 hours ago, yellowsportwagon said:

Or sell to me?😜

Tim,

Have no problem with that!! I'm also working an oil pump/oil filter combo and oil cooler to finish up the dry sump system.

I'm trying model these parts after what I see in this photo. Wish me luck!!

Gerald

jWPmNDh.jpg

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I would use Evergreen flat rectangular plastic or square plastic to replicate the ribs. They make that in smaller sizes, as well.

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1 hour ago, DoctorLarry said:

I would use Evergreen flat rectangular plastic or square plastic to replicate the ribs. They make that in smaller sizes, as well.

I will try that as well. I will mold the original and make a few copies to experiment with!! Thank you all for your input, Please keep it comin' the more knowledge on the subject the better. I work very slow so please be patient with me😀

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Does anyone make a bathtub intake or should I break out more plastic and putty?

 

Gerald

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5 minutes ago, gks1964 said:

Does anyone make a bathtub intake or should I break out more plastic and putty?

 

Gerald

Not a good one.

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2 minutes ago, yellowsportwagon said:

Not a good one.

I have another project to start while I wait on the plastic strip🤣 

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Anyone have any interior pic's that show the seat belt setup that were used in '69?

All I have found are pi's of restored cars!

Thanks,

Gerald

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Posted (edited)
7 hours ago, gks1964 said:

Anyone have any interior pic's that show the seat belt setup that were used in '69?

All I have found are pi's of restored cars!

Thanks,

Gerald

https://www.gettyimages.com/photos/nascar-1969?mediatype=photography&page=7&

Gerald, here is a link to 8 pages of '69 cars that include quite a few of drivers strapped in. Seems to all be 2" belts. Couldn't find any showing just the belt system but like I said, they all look to be 2", black, and if I'm not mistaken, many used an inertia reel at that point.

 

John

Edited by john843

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Am I correct in my thinking that this car did not run a Ford rear end, but used a mopar rear end?

Would the rear end from the AMT GTX kit be a close match?

Thanks,

 

Gerald

 

 

 

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Posted (edited)

The axles in the AMT 68-69-70 Mopar B-bodies are Dana 60 wich were used in 4-speed big block and Hemi cars, the Dana 60 is very strong but it's heavy and hard to change gear ratios in as you have to do it on the car.
I don't know exactly when all teams started to use the Ford 9 inch but I know the Mopar NASCAR cars used the 8 3/4 inch rear end back in the day, this axle is similar in construction as the Ford 9 inch and it's easier and much quicker to change the gear ratios in that axle as the 3rd member is a separate removable piece, so if you have several 3rd members with different gear ratios ready to use it's just like pull the drive shafts and swap the 3rd member to another one with a different ratio...much like they do with the Ford 9 inch.

Regarding the "Bathtub" intake manifold, the only ones I know of from a kit is the old MPC intake wich can be found at some aftermarket resin casters, and as Tim says, they are not good representations of the "bathtub" intake...the best "bathtub" intakes I have seen has been scratch built...I'm curious why no one from the aftermarket has done and offered a better more accurate one, it can't be that hard to do with CAD and 3d printers we have today.

Edited by Force

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Posted (edited)

http://www.b-n-lresins.com/shoppingopencart/Aftermarket-resin-cast-1-24-1-25-scale-model-mopar-bathtub-intake-with-carb-model-kit-truck

This is the BNL offering. While not perfect, it looks better than the MPC kit piece. Mark Batson did a step by step scratch-build in SAE shown in the link below.

http://cs.scaleautomag.com/sca/general_discussion/f/3/t/113582.aspx

 

John

Edited by john843

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3 hours ago, Force said:

The axles in the AMT 68-69-70 Mopar B-bodies are Dana 60 wich were used in 4-speed big block and Hemi cars, the Dana 60 is very strong but it's heavy and hard to change gear ratios in as you have to do it on the car.
I don't know exactly when all teams started to use the Ford 9 inch but I know the Mopar NASCAR cars used the 8 3/4 inch rear end back in the day, this axle is similar in construction as the Ford 9 inch and it's easier and much quicker to change the gear ratios in that axle as the 3rd member is a separate removable piece, so if you have several 3rd members with different gear ratios ready to use it's just like pull the drive shafts and swap the 3rd member to another one with a different ratio...much like they do with the Ford 9 inch.

Regarding the "Bathtub" intake manifold, the only ones I know of from a kit is the old MPC intake wich can be found at some aftermarket resin casters, and as Tim says, they are not good representations of the "bathtub" intake...the best "bathtub" intakes I have seen has been scratch built...I'm curious why no one from the aftermarket has done and offered a better more accurate one, it can't be that hard to do with CAD and 3d printers we have today.

Someone used tomake a real nice resin one but it’s no longer available .

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Posted (edited)
15 hours ago, john843 said:

http://www.b-n-lresins.com/shoppingopencart/Aftermarket-resin-cast-1-24-1-25-scale-model-mopar-bathtub-intake-with-carb-model-kit-truck

This is the BNL offering. While not perfect, it looks better than the MPC kit piece. Mark Batson did a step by step scratch-build in SAE shown in the link below.

http://cs.scaleautomag.com/sca/general_discussion/f/3/t/113582.aspx

 

John

 

14 hours ago, yellowsportwagon said:

Someone used tomake a real nice resin one but it’s no longer available .

Yes BNL intake is slightly better than the old MPC intake but it still doesn't really capture the look of the real thing.
The one Mark scratch built is one of the better ones I have seen so far.

Edited by Force

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44 minutes ago, Force said:

 

Yes BNL intake is slightly better than the old MPC intake but it still doesn't really capture the look of the real thing.
The one Mark scratch built is one of the better ones I have seen so far.

That BNL one is a copy of the Polar Lights  Charger  piece

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After I get the oil pan and oil tank in Silicon, I may take a stab at it!

Wish me luck😏!

 

Gerald

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