Molotow pens

[Dave G.]

Don't know if this is going to help but while my Molotows are idle I have them rolled up tight in a plastic sandwich bag. My thought is it will at least be an air restricted environment if not air tight.

[Anglia105E]

4 hours ago, Dave G. said:

Don't know if this is going to help but while my Molotows are idle I have them rolled up tight in a plastic sandwich bag. My thought is it will at least be an air restricted environment if not air tight.

Your suggestion to store the Molotow pens in a plastic sandwich bag or freezer bag, David is a sound idea and I shall try that. My Molotows are stored vertically upright, with tip and cap to the TOP........ other members seem to have good results with tip and cap to the BOTTOM.......

David

[Dave G.]

23 minutes ago, Anglia105E said:

Your suggestion to store the Molotow pens in a plastic sandwich bag or freezer bag, David is a sound idea and I shall try that. My Molotows are stored vertically upright, with tip and cap to the TOP........ other members seem to have good results with tip and cap to the BOTTOM.......

David

Yes, mine are laying down and they get a periodic shake when not in use. Once I get past the chrome on a particular build it may be weeks before I do chrome again ( I'm an unbelievably slow build, my speedy build days were a very long time ago), so once a week or so I just shake them up. Hopefully this idea at least helps the cause.

[espo]

I have a question regarding "chroming" Bumpers and Grills. There are so many here with far more experience with these pens than I do. I'm getting reedy to chrome the bumpers and grill for a Revell '50 Oldsmobile. My prep so far has been to strip the kit's chrome and paint them with a very shiny coat of Tamiya TS-14 gloss black. I have both 1mm and 2 mm pens. I also have Alclad paint as an option. My concerns are first applying over this large of an area. Second is drying time before it's safe to handle for installation. My past experience has been that the more I have to handle the treated part it seems like I have the black showing thru in many spots. I understand that clear coating will also dull the chrome finish. Any suggestions would be appreciated.  

[Ramfins59]

15 minutes ago, espo said:

I have a question regarding "chroming" Bumpers and Grills. There are so many here with far more experience with these pens than I do. I'm getting reedy to chrome the bumpers and grill for a Revell '50 Oldsmobile. My prep so far has been to strip the kit's chrome and paint them with a very shiny coat of Tamiya TS-14 gloss black. I have both 1mm and 2 mm pens. I also have Alclad paint as an option. My concerns are first applying over this large of an area. Second is drying time before it's safe to handle for installation. My past experience has been that the more I have to handle the treated part it seems like I have the black showing thru in many spots. I understand that clear coating will also dull the chrome finish. Any suggestions would be appreciated.  

Hi David.  I've used Molotow pens to touch up bumpers and grills, but have so far only fully "chromed" the grill & bumpers on one car...... the '55 Mercury that I just recently finished.  I didn't paint them prior to chroming and I could have done a better job of smoothing out the resin pieces before applying the Molotow ink.  I used the 2mm pen using long, slow strokes to let the ink "flow" and almost "bubble" as it is applied.  I think the 4mm pen would be better for chroming large areas, but I "misplaced" mine and will have to get a new one. Try not to go over the same area twice until after the ink has dried for at least a day.  Then I let the pieces dry for almost a week before handling them, but there were eventually some "duller" areas from repeated handling of the parts to get them properly positioned at final assembly time.  Overall I'm pretty pleased with the way they came out.

[espo]

5 minutes ago, Ramfins59 said:

Hi David.  I've used Molotow pens to touch up bumpers and grills, but have so far only fully "chromed" the grill & bumpers on one car...... the '55 Mercury that I just recently finished.  I didn't paint them prior to chroming and I could have done a better job of smoothing out the resin pieces before applying the Molotow ink.  I used the 2mm pen using long, slow strokes to let the ink "flow" and almost "bubble" as it is applied.  I think the 4mm pen would be better for chroming large areas, but I "misplaced" mine and will have to get a new one. Try not to go over the same area twice until after the ink has dried for at least a day.  Then I let the pieces dry for almost a week before handling them, but there were eventually some "duller" areas from repeated handling of the parts to get them properly positioned at final assembly time.  Overall I'm pretty pleased with the way they came out.

Thankyou for the information. I really admired your Mercury by the way. One of my concerns with the grill is the parallel cross bars that are close together and may be an issue getting in between them. 

[Dave G.]

I think if I was going to do the chrome laden nose of a 50's car I would spray it. They say the Molotow chrome sprayed results are even better than from the pen. But then again I guess if you go to the trouble of getting Molotow into an airbrush then you might at that point consider the Alclad. Just depends which look you prefer, either can do a good job....

I haven't cleared my Molotow chrome so can't comment on that. I know it takes very little sealer on MM Metalizer to just cover it and any more and you might as well forget the metal look. You can wreck the look real easy clear coating, with Molotow I'd rather have to put on another coat than risk it personally. Best I can say.

[espo]

8 minutes ago, Dave G. said:

I think if I was going to do the chrome laden nose of a 50's car I would spray it. They say the Molotow chrome sprayed results are even better than from the pen. But then again I guess if you go to the trouble of getting Molotow into an airbrush then you might at that point consider the Alclad. Just depends which look you prefer, either can do a good job....

I haven't cleared my Molotow chrome so can't comment on that. I know it takes very little sealer on MM Metalizer to just cover it and any more and you might as well forget the metal look. You can wreck the look real easy clear coating, with Molotow I'd rather have to put on another coat than risk it personally. Best I can say.

Thankyou for you suggestions. I have been leaning toward the Alclad just because it seems easier to me. I have, Alclad Aqua Gloss Clear, but have never tried it yet. .

[Dave G.]

3 minutes ago, espo said:

Thankyou for you suggestions. I have been leaning toward the Alclad just because it seems easier to me. I have, Alclad Aqua Gloss Clear, but have never tried it yet. .

Well without the clear Alclad can be rather fragile. I don't know that it's any less fragile than Molotow but Molotow is easy to touch up. And a good touch up for the kit chrome, I wouldn't say the same for alclad but anyone is free to correct me.

[espo]

3 hours ago, Dave G. said:

Well without the clear Alclad can be rather fragile. I don't know that it's any less fragile than Molotow but Molotow is easy to touch up. And a good touch up for the kit chrome, I wouldn't say the same for alclad but anyone is free to correct me.

Thankyou for your reply. Have you ever used the Clear Alcad?  I had purchased the Clear with the idea of using it at a later date. I think I'm going to do what I recommend to everyone else. The old picnic spoon test.   

[StevenGuthmiller]

5 hours ago, espo said:

 I also have Alclad paint as an option.

Use the Alclad.

 

 

Steve

[StevenGuthmiller]

4 hours ago, Dave G. said:

Well without the clear Alclad can be rather fragile. I don't know that it's any less fragile than Molotow but Molotow is easy to touch up. And a good touch up for the kit chrome, I wouldn't say the same for alclad but anyone is free to correct me.

In my experience, Molotow is much more fragile than Alclad, but I would refrain from over handling either of them.

Having your bumpers re-chromed is the ultimate and only answer in my opinion.

 

 

Steve

[Dave G.]

2 hours ago, espo said:

Thankyou for your reply. Have you ever used the Clear Alcad?  I had purchased the Clear with the idea of using it at a later date. I think I'm going to do what I recommend to everyone else. The old picnic spoon test.   

Yes a test is the way to go and come to your own conclusion !!

[Bugatti Fan]

Just recently I started to use some C1 polishing powder. What I did was prime the part with grey automotive primer followed by a craft shop shiny chrome from an aerosol. When this had dried thoroughly I went over it with Johnson's Klear (now Future) floor sealer. This hardened off and dulled the chrome finish a bit underneath. I then buffed up the parts using the C1 polishing powder. This gave me a polished aluminium finish that I was trying to achieve. What is more is that when the C1 is buffed up it is quite resilient to handling unlike many other products. C1 claim that you can apply deals straight on to it. If I go for a chrome finish I will try gloss black over the grey primer and use the C1 on this and see what happens next time I use it.

Edited February 22, 2020 by Bugatti Fan

[Lowlife ! !]

 

I wanted to mention, just from my own experience....

Molotow pens are best for small parts.  It you can, use 1 stroke, don't go over it. 

You won't get a decent finish on a wider surface, the result is similar to brush painting... You'll see uneven lines.

Personally I've cleared the chrome with future, and not noticed any less shine.

Although I've handled molotow painted (drawn?)  parts, and found it doesn't show fingerprints. 

Can't really say the base colour has much effect, the chrome pens are fairly thick, I've had good results straight onto bare plastic.

I still use BMF for window trim etc , simply because the pens won't give a straight enough line.

Hope that helps !  

 

 

 

 

[Dave G.]

On 2/22/2020 at 7:23 AM, Lowlife ! ! said:

 

I wanted to mention, just from my own experience....

Molotow pens are best for small parts.  It you can, use 1 stroke, don't go over it. 

You won't get a decent finish on a wider surface, the result is similar to brush painting... You'll see uneven lines.

Personally I've cleared the chrome with future, and not noticed any less shine.

Although I've handled molotow painted (drawn?)  parts, and found it doesn't show fingerprints. 

Can't really say the base colour has much effect, the chrome pens are fairly thick, I've had good results straight onto bare plastic.

I still use BMF for window trim etc , simply because the pens won't give a straight enough line.

Hope that helps !  

 

 

 

 

What you describe above is why I said on something with large chrome areas like a 50's era car I'd probably try spraying the Molotow. In the videos I've seen where people sprayed it it looked really good. Course then you gotta get it out of the pen or buy the  refill .

[Tom Geiger]

On 2/19/2020 at 4:46 PM, StevenGuthmiller said:

I've come to the conclusion that I will only use these pens when absolutely necessary.

I'm not particularly enamored with their performance, and with proper preparation, Alclad chrome will give you every bit as good a chrome finish as Molotow.

If I can airbrush the part, it gets Alclad.

Only small details and touch-ups here and there get Molotow.

 

Absolutely agreed!  I have the 1mm pen and only use it for minor touch up like where spruce was connected, lug nuts and some interior trim. 

Ive never worried about storing the pen, it often is just sitting on the bench sideways. Mine’s maybe two years old and no problems when I go to use it.

For those not using an air brush, Alclad  also comes in a spray can.

[drodg]

Agreed, I also only use the Molotov on small areas.  I use bare metal on say window garnish moldings but it is nice to have the Molotov for vent windows etc.  

[restoman]

On 2/19/2020 at 4:46 PM, StevenGuthmiller said:

I've come to the conclusion that I will only use these pens when absolutely necessary.

I'm not particularly enamored with their performance, and with proper preparation, Alclad chrome will give you every bit as good a chrome finish as Molotow.

If I can airbrush the part, it gets Alclad.

Only small details and touch-ups here and there get Molotow.

 

 

I just sprayed Alclad chrome on this steering wheel.

Nothing wrong with that.

 

 

 

 

 

Steve

 

 

Yup, there's no doubt Alclad looks better. I'd be quite happy with this shine!

I do use a 1mm Molotow pen and have had good luck with it on small stuff. Mine seemed to be tending toward silver more than chrome - it's over a year old - so I took out the tip, soaked it in 99% rubbing alcohol for a bit, blew it dry and re-inserted it, then shook the ever-loving-life out of the pen before trying it again. A good three minutes plus... Seems much better, but still on the silver side.

Molotow airbrushes very well and with a bit of practice, can look almost as good as the Alclad pictured above. How long does it last? Who knows...

[StevenGuthmiller]

I don't have any problem at all with people who love the Molotow ink and use it liberally, but in my personal experience, The Molotow is way too fragile for external parts.

Even after more than a week of curing time, I've had small parts done with the ink dull almost instantly upon touching.

Yeah, I know, this will prompt a dozen posts from folks stating that they have never had this issue, but I have, and I certainly don't want to spend eternity handling a particular model with kid gloves just in case I might leave a smudge on a bumper.

 

My philosophy is, if I'm going to pour my time and creativity into a model, I'm not going to take short cuts, and I'm going to use the best materials possible.

Especially in lieu of the fact that I choose to spend my time building vintage plastic, they will get re-chromed parts on every occasion, and will as long as it's possible to do so.

 

I wouldn't be opposed to using Alclad or Molotow for large external parts if a viable, tough, clear coat was available that would not dull the chrome effect of the finish and was tough enough to protect the finish and be able to be polished perfectly smooth like any other paint.

I would be chroming all of my own bumpers if this were the case.

That level of durability would be the only way that I would ever entertain using one of these products on something as exposed and vulnerable as a bumper.

But hey.......that's just me.

 

 

Edit:

Here are a pair of "Fireball Modelworks" GM door handles for my '68 442 project that were shot with Alclad chrome.

 

 

Steve

Edited February 25, 2020 by StevenGuthmiller

[randyc]

I've never had particularly good results with alclad.  BUT i think that is user error.  I may have had too much air pressure.  My old compressor didn't have an accurate regulator.   I didn't realize this until I got a new compressor with a properly working regulator.  Haven't tried with the new compressor.    A lot of success has to do with using the method you are familiar and best with.   And respecting hte limitations of the product being used, be it Alcladd, Molotow, or chrome foil.  Or even Testors Chrome paint.  Or whatever.   That list can just keep growing.   

Some guys are perfectly happy with the effect a sharpie provides.  I use Sharpie too at times.   "Chrome" on a car is not always super chromy.  Variations - polished stainless or aluminum.  Chrome plating, etc.

I am encouraged to go back and try Alclad again.

[StevenGuthmiller]

Yup, I'm pretty much finished with Molotow.

I haven't had much luck with it anyway, and now it appears that the shelf life is too short to justify spending the money on them.

I use them very sparingly for touch ups and small details, but after trying to do some touch up on chrome parts today and having it look no better than silver paint, I'm about done defending them.

Brushing on some Alclad chrome looked just as good as the Molotow!

 

I shot some Alclad on a few more small parts today, and it's become obvious to me that it's the way to go.

I don't have to worry about my Alclad getting old!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Steve

[Michael jones]

I use molotow on every single car I build. Usually on the interior for handles/ knobs trim etc. Especially good for anything round and small. Apply with a fine brush.

 

Use E7 paints chrome sealer for a clear coat. Works great!!

Edited March 8, 2020 by Michael jones

[StevenGuthmiller]

12 hours ago, Michael jones said:

I use molotow on every single car I build. Usually on the interior for handles/ knobs trim etc. Especially good for anything round and small. Apply with a fine brush.

I used to.

But I'm out.

 

I actually had to wrap the 1mm edge of an air cleaner lid with foil yesterday because my Molotow pens are garbage all of the sudden.

I can't justify buying another pen and throwing out others that are still over half full.

 

 

 

 

Steve

Edited March 8, 2020 by StevenGuthmiller

[peteski]

3 hours ago, StevenGuthmiller said:

I actually had to wrap the 1mm edge of an air cleaner lid with foil yesterday because my Molotow pens are garbage all of the sudden.

I can't justify buying another pen and throwing out others that are still over half full.

Maybe it just needs thinning a bit?  Isopropryl alcohol (91% or stronger) might do the trick.

 

But first (if you haven't done it yet), clean the tip (nib). Pull the fiber tip out of your pen and place it in a small container filled with lacquer thinner.  I have small glass cups dentists used to use for mixing filling  material. It is perfect for this task.  The lacquer thinner will soak into the tip and dissolve the clear binder and silver flakes.  Swish the tip for a while so the thinner gets all the way through the tip. 
Pull the tip out of the thinner and wrap it into a sliver of a paper towel to soak the thinner from the tip into the paper towel.   Then empty the cup of contaminated thinner, and fill it again with fresh thinner anr repeat the process.
Repeat this rinsing process until the lacquer thinner has very little silver flakes in it.  Then if you have an airbrush or source of compressed air (even one of those "dust-off" aerosol cans), blow the tip dry while holding it in a paper towel.
Then also drop some thinner into the tip opening and drain it. Do this few times again, to dissolve any of the remaining paint in there.
Finally, reinsert the tip, shake the pen well, then prime the tip by pressing it down for few pumps, until it gets wet with paint.

At this point it should work well. If not, then thinning the chrome paint might be needed.  IN that case I would try the following:
Remove the tip and using a pipette, fill the tip opening with 91% or stronger isopropyl alcohol. 99% would be even better. Since the bottom of the hole is sealed with spring-loaded valve, the alcohol will not enter the paint chamber.  So take a piece of brass rod (or similar item) with a blunt tip, put it in the tip hole and press down on the valve.  You might have to do this few times for the alcohol to drain into the paint chamber.  One load of alcohol will probably be enough to thin the contents.  Shake vigorously. Then clean the tip again and see if the pen works any better.

I have not thinned Molotow pen contents yet, but I have done this successfully on similarly constructed paint pens.