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1/25 Revell 1969 Dodge Charger R/T body wip pics.


wisco8

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1 hour ago, espo said:

I like how you detailed the Valley Cover, I don't remember seeing that done like that before. 

Hi David, here iare a few pics of what I found while I was trying to figure out the firing order and how the plug wires are to be run.

224710_Engine_Web.jpg

Mopar-Firing-Order.jpg

440-six-barrel-exhaust-manifold.jpg

440-six-pack-cylinder-plug-wire.jpg

IMG_1435.jpg

IMG_1434.jpg

Edited by wisco8
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2 hours ago, wisco8 said:

Hi David, here iare a few pics of what I found while I was trying to figure out the firing order and how the plug wires are to be run.

224710_Engine_Web.jpg

Mopar-Firing-Order.jpg

440-six-barrel-exhaust-manifold.jpg

440-six-pack-cylinder-plug-wire.jpg

IMG_1435.jpg

IMG_1434.jpg

This is a good idea when you're striving for accuracy. The top photo shows an Aluminum Intake Manifold and the 6-pack engine shows a painted Intake Manifold but a painted Valley Cover. Which is correct ? I really have no idea. First I should say I'm in no way criticizing what you are doing here, in fact the opposite is my thinking. As you can see both engines are rebuilt to a far better appearance than they were when new. The Spark Plug Wires and their routing look correct to me and this is one of the best ways to research these details. The colors used on various parts on the engine, and the same for the entire Chassis, these details are very subjective from production plant to time of the week of production. I also try very hard to get it right but there times I just do it the way it looks best to me. Also notice the first engine has nicely done Exhaust Manifolds and they're done the way I would do them on such a model. That said they would be incorrect if your going for a car rolling off the end of the assembly line. The second picture with the 6-Pack is the way they painted the Exhaust Manifolds.  During the first running of the engine the paint would be burned away and the Manifolds appearance would change with use. So how do you approach that ?  Just do it the way that looks right to you.   

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22 minutes ago, espo said:

This is a good idea when you're striving for accuracy. The top photo shows an Aluminum Intake Manifold and the 6-pack engine shows a painted Intake Manifold but a painted Valley Cover. Which is correct ? I really have no idea. First I should say I'm in no way criticizing what you are doing here, in fact the opposite is my thinking. As you can see both engines are rebuilt to a far better appearance than they were when new. The Spark Plug Wires and their routing look correct to me and this is one of the best ways to research these details. The colors used on various parts on the engine, and the same for the entire Chassis, these details are very subjective from production plant to time of the week of production. I also try very hard to get it right but there times I just do it the way it looks best to me. Also notice the first engine has nicely done Exhaust Manifolds and they're done the way I would do them on such a model. That said they would be incorrect if your going for a car rolling off the end of the assembly line. The second picture with the 6-Pack is the way they painted the Exhaust Manifolds.  During the first running of the engine the paint would be burned away and the Manifolds appearance would change with use. So how do you approach that ?  Just do it the way that looks right to you.   

Hi David, thank you for the insight. Most likely I will do the exhaust manifolds like in the first picture. Now all I have to do is make some wires and plug caps. I have small wire mainly the phone wire size but with a solid core... the braided ones cant be bent so easily as the solid core type. I also noticed I'm going to have to make a small spring for the carb throttle, I think that's what is might be, I'm not an engine guy so Ill have to figure it out. It looks easier than a jet engine though. I will just have to see how far I can go with it.

Best regards, Steve

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Let me preface the following , by stating that This is your build ; paint and construct it as it fits you

Correct engine colour for a 1969 440-HP is Chrysler Engine Orange . 

The engines were painted in assembled-state , including exhaust manifolds (which the paint quickly burned-off from , leaving only traces of the engine paint's colour ) , intake manifold (cast iron or aluminium) , and the valley pan ( 350-361-383-400 ; 413-426-440 ) .

For a factory-stock replica , this is the only correct way to paint the engine .

Again --- this is your build , your vision . Colour , paint , and build to your satisfaction... Which is fantastic by the way ! 

Keep up the great work !

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That is the thing with automotive model subjects- much like aircraft, armour- any other subject- the vehicle being modelled has a life and a history. One can build showroom stock (depicting a vehicle early in it's history), or as something that has been modified (think "day 2" build), rebuilt/restored to any number of standards. As long as the builder is consistent with the goal, there isn't necessarily anything wrong/incorrect.

I like this build, the efforts and craftmanship so far, and will be watching. Excellent work.

Sometimes, as many of the accomplished builders on the forum prove, the overall look of the finished model says as much about realism as does sweating the small details that aren't as readily seen. To quote Steven Guthmiller on here, it is easy to have a build "become a 'rabbit hole' that I can't get out of."  His work speaks for itself. Getting a model looking right and finished is preferable to having a bunch of partially completed projects stalled in boxes, and I suspect enough of us have a few of those.

Edited by gman
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Thank you everyone for the helpful tips and positive reinforcement. Here are a few pics of the engine work so far. I think Ill have to break down and buy a  wire set somewhere because the wires might be a bit to thick. I did get the firing order correct though I hope.

Best regards, Steve

 

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IMG_20200314_201245565.jpg

IMG_20200314_202506310.jpg

IMG_20200314_202518426.jpg

IMG_20200314_202533229.jpg

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On 3/13/2020 at 10:31 AM, wisco8 said:

Thank you Cliff, and thank you for the heads up on the front wheel stance, I will do just that.  Right now I'm working on the engine. I cleaned up all the flash and smoothed out all the sprue connections, the hardest one so far was the small parting lines on the coil. Now all I have to do is find the Chrysler engine red. I have well over 3000 paints, it should only take about  20-30 minutes to find it and hopefully it isn't all rock hard.

Best regards, and stay safe from the corona virus. Steve

You’re welcome Steve! It’s the nitty-gritty details that matters sometimes & you’re sure making a great effort to clean those pesky seam/lines up! It’s silly when you think about it, because some will never be seen anyway ??‍♂️? But we know they’re there.... ??‍♂️??

3000 paints? Whoaaaaa! ? Good luck finding it! Might be easier just buying a new bottle? Lol! 
Keep up the awesome work my friend & yes, you stay healthy too ??????

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2 hours ago, CJ1971 said:

You’re welcome Steve! It’s the nitty-gritty details that matters sometimes & you’re sure making a great effort to clean those pesky seam/lines up! It’s silly when you think about it, because some will never be seen anyway ??‍♂️? But we know they’re there.... ??‍♂️??

3000 paints? Whoaaaaa! ? Good luck finding it! Might be easier just buying a new bottle? Lol! 
Keep up the awesome work my friend & yes, you stay healthy too ??????

I got the wrong color anyway, its Chrysler engine red and I needed Chrysler engine orange.  Ill have to rebuild another engine anyway because the stupid spark plug wires are to big. At least I got the firing order right.

best regards, Steve.

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11 minutes ago, StevenGuthmiller said:

Yeah, the wires have got to go.

It's the perfect size for heater hose though! ;)

Hi Steve,  I'm going to have to make a trip to the hobby store and get some spark plug wires. Its a good thing because non of them are glued in anyway, and they should be very easy to replace. I hope they have some wire guides left so they will stay in place. I really do appreciate your help Steve.

Best regards, Steve

 

 

Steve

 

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Interior painting and details. The center council was painted first with Vallejo 71.106 as the base then coated over with future, then just dragged some Winsor & Newton burnt sienna artist oil to simulate the wood grain.

IMG_20200315_161154409 (2).jpg

IMG_20200315_191708974.jpg

IMG_20200315_191715405.jpg

IMG_20200315_191726876.jpg

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On 3/16/2020 at 11:05 AM, gman said:

That interior (and its woodgrain pattern) looks great.

Thank you Greg. I hope there will be a few out there who might like to try this technique. I usually use Tamiya buff followed by future, let it dry for 24 hour till the future is nice and hard, Then Ill mix some japan dryer to the artist oil and streak away!! The Japan dryer makes the oils dry within a few days or so. When its all dry re-coat with some future and either gloss over or flat over with Testors lacquer dull-coat or Testors Lacquer gloss coat. That it. wood grain finish. There are more on the internet on this subject, check em' out.  Here is one out of countless videos and tutorials:    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-T2S5CMjwwY

Best regards, Steve

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9 hours ago, espo said:

Beautiful looking interior. Your engine redo turned out great. 

Thank you David, There are things I can still make better, but Ill learn as I go. I cant wait to get some stuff from Fireball they have some really cool stuff there.

Steve

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