Do Lacquer Fumes Kill Caronavirus?

[StevenGuthmiller]

2 hours ago, jchrisf said:

What about Gravity Colors?

That's a question for someone else.

I've never used them.

 

Although I will say that their website leaves a little to be desired.

They do have photos of the paint jars, but all makes of cars and colors are mixed together randomly so it appears to me that it would be difficult to find a specific color.

 

 

 

Steve

Edited March 14, 2020 by StevenGuthmiller

[jchrisf]

48 minutes ago, NOBLNG said:

Each to his own. I have used both Tamiya and Testors spray cans. I am not concerned with colour accuracy but I find more and more that the spray pattern is very heavy compared to what I can get with the airbrush, so I find myself decanting them.

I will be decanting a lot of Tamiya because the last hobby store in town is closing down and had a bunch for half off.  I snagged a bunch and will go back Monday and get the rest if they have any left.  Guy only takes cash.  Getting ready to order Tamiya Thinners (Lacquer and Acrylic) along with the Mr. Hobby Leveling thinner to use with my Tamiya cans and bottled acrylics too.   I also think Tamiya Light Gun Metal is about the nicest looking silver I have ever seen on a car.  I have several Tamiya kits that I plan to follow by the manual until I get a lot more experience and knowledge so I will be using only their paints on them.

Yeah @StevenGuthmiller that is another reason I want to use the airbrush, so I won't be so heavy with the crazing primers and lacquers.

[Plowboy]

1 hour ago, jchrisf said:

 I also think Tamiya Light Gun Metal is about the nicest looking silver I have ever seen on a car.  

If you like the Light Gun Metal, you should check out their Mica Silver. Their Mica paints have a deep rich look to them. I've used their Mica Blue, Red and Silver. I need to check and see if they have added any more colors to the Mica line.  

[Zoom Zoom]

Tamiya will soon have many/most of their spray lacquers in new LP jars for those that like to airbrush and/or mix & match the colors for custom or closer-to-OEM shades that are close but not quite accurate. Preliminary testing is quite favorable. I had training in college in color theory and instinctually mix colors by eye to my liking, whether from jars or decanted. I often want to paint something immediately w/o waiting on ordered paint. I’ve decanted plenty of Tamiya paint in the past 10-15 years, I prefer laying down the paint in much thinner layers vs. the firehose effect of using just the rattle cans. This followed a period (my post-enamel phase) of using their rattle cans on nearly every project and loving it, aside from using it up quickly and darker colors pulling away from sharp edges. As I progressed I desired more control and returned to airbrushing. A single can goes a lot further, allowing more paint jobs per can, and issues of the paint pulling from edges stopped entirely. I use their primers as intended directly from the spray cans, it saves time, dries very smooth and the thicker coats are good for protecting the plastic especially if I shoot aftermarket auto paints.
 

Mr. Hobby primers and clears are IMHO superior to Tamiya. Harder to find w/o internet, worth it if you can find it. I found this out during the period that Tamiya sprays, especially clear, vanished for a period and I needed substitutions. They have Mr. Surfacer grades for bodywork through finished primer that’s the smoothest I’ve ever encountered, and both spray cans and jars of each grade. They also have an amazing white base color. The only (few) times I’ve had auto lacquer craze using Tamiya or Mr. Hobby primers was when I didn’t apply enough primer. 

[jchrisf]

46 minutes ago, Zoom Zoom said:

Tamiya will soon have many/most of their spray lacquers in new LP jars for those that like to airbrush and/or mix & match the colors for custom or closer-to-OEM shades that are close but not quite accurate. Preliminary testing is quite favorable. I had training in college in color theory and instinctually mix colors by eye to my liking, whether from jars or decanted. I often want to paint something immediately w/o waiting on ordered paint. I’ve decanted plenty of Tamiya paint in the past 10-15 years, I prefer laying down the paint in much thinner layers vs. the firehose effect of using just the rattle cans. This followed a period (my post-enamel phase) of using their rattle cans on nearly every project and loving it, aside from using it up quickly and darker colors pulling away from sharp edges. As I progressed I desired more control and returned to airbrushing. A single can goes a lot further, allowing more paint jobs per can, and issues of the paint pulling from edges stopped entirely. I use their primers as intended directly from the spray cans, it saves time, dries very smooth and the thicker coats are good for protecting the plastic especially if I shoot aftermarket auto paints.
 

Mr. Hobby primers and clears are IMHO superior to Tamiya. Harder to find w/o internet, worth it if you can find it. I found this out during the period that Tamiya sprays, especially clear, vanished for a period and I needed substitutions. They have Mr. Surfacer grades for bodywork through finished primer that’s the smoothest I’ve ever encountered, and both spray cans and jars of each grade. They also have an amazing white base color. The only (few) times I’ve had auto lacquer craze using Tamiya or Mr. Hobby primers was when I didn’t apply enough primer. 

That's good news Bob.. Which Mr. Hobby Clear do you recommend?

[Zoom Zoom]

Any of them. The #46 gloss clear is a favorite. It’s thick and you use almost 3 parts thinner to 1 part clear. I look forward to trying the new Tamiya clear lacquer in a jar, TS 13 doesn’t take well to decanting & thinning, it’s too soft, probably better to shoot directly. I’m hoping it works like Mr. Hobby #46 which lays down smooth, dries really fast!and durable and can be handled w/o getting sticky which is a problem with decanted TS -13 and enamel clear. 

[SfanGoch]

6 hours ago, jchrisf said:

What about Gravity Colors?

Excellent paints. Just don't order from the U.S.-based company. You can read threads as to why not in the "Aftermarket and Resin" section. If you're going to order them, get them from the European company.

[jchrisf]

Thanks @Zoom Zoom Bob, I've got 2 #46s in my cart.  I've learned a lot from your posts and articles.  I'm going to follow your instructions for decanting Tamiya Spray cans.. glad to see I don't have to wait to long too use them.

Thanks @SfanGoch

[El Roberto]

On 3/13/2020 at 11:16 AM, jchrisf said:

I would do that with Tamiya Acrylics and everything but the body if they are durable, which they appear to be but I don't have any experience with them.  For the body how would you get them shiny and smooth? 

Also, Tamiya Acrylics stink.

Use the Tamiya gloss.  The X series are gloss, the XF are flat.  You can also top coat with Tamiya clear gloss.  

[El Roberto]

21 hours ago, peteski said:

I hear this a lot from people who use spray cans.  It really burns me up!  It takes me around a minute to "clean" my airbrush, to get it ready for the next job.  One of these days I have to make a video of my method, so that excuse gets squashed.  Airbrush gives you *SO MUCH* more control of your painting process.

I described my cleaning method on another forum. Here is a link to that post (I recommend reading the entire thread): https://www.therailwire.net/forum/index.php?topic=41067.msg511017#msg511017

Exactly right.  It's hard not to bomb parts with a spray can, ends up looking like the piece was dipped in a bucket of paint.  Spray cans are OK for bodies but for everything else a air brush works a lot better.  

[jchrisf]

14 hours ago, El Roberto said:

Exactly right.  It's hard not to bomb parts with a spray can, ends up looking like the piece was dipped in a bucket of paint.  Spray cans are OK for bodies but for everything else a air brush works a lot better.  

Saw a video on YT where a guy was showing how to detail chrome wheels.  When he was done shooting dull coat on one wheel there was enough dull coat everywhere around the wheel to do about 10 more wheels.. all wasted.  Plus the wheels were too wet.

[vintagerpm]

On 3/14/2020 at 9:57 AM, jchrisf said:

What about Gravity Colors?

If thinking of using Gravity, I have three other similar paints to suggest.

Zero is out of the UK: https://www.zero-paints.com/
But is available in the US from HobbyWorld-USA: http://www.hobbyworld-usa.com/Store/index.php

Then there is Splash paints out of Portland, Oregon: https://www.splash-paints.com/

While not auto-specific, there is also SMS paints out of Australia: https://www.scalemodeller.com.au/
Available in the US from USA Gundam Store: https://www.usagundamstore.com/collections/sms-paint

All these paints are pre-thinned lacquer paints ready to go out of the bottle. They do require clearcoat, however.

What's really cool about Gravity, Zero, & Splash, is you can usually order specific paint colors if you have the paint codes or official auto manufacturers name for them, even if they don't list the paint. I've already done that with Zero, as I needed a specific Porsche orange from 1970.

[jchrisf]

22 hours ago, vintagerpm said:

If thinking of using Gravity, I have three other similar paints to suggest.

Zero is out of the UK: https://www.zero-paints.com/
But is available in the US from HobbyWorld-USA: http://www.hobbyworld-usa.com/Store/index.php

Then there is Splash paints out of Portland, Oregon: https://www.splash-paints.com/

While not auto-specific, there is also SMS paints out of Australia: https://www.scalemodeller.com.au/
Available in the US from USA Gundam Store: https://www.usagundamstore.com/collections/sms-paint

All these paints are pre-thinned lacquer paints ready to go out of the bottle. They do require clearcoat, however.

What's really cool about Gravity, Zero, & Splash, is you can usually order specific paint colors if you have the paint codes or official auto manufacturers name for them, even if they don't list the paint. I've already done that with Zero, as I needed a specific Porsche orange from 1970.

Thanks Mike.. that SMS paint looks like a great deal if shipping is not too much.  Does anyone know what size the Splash paints are?  I couldn't find it on their website.  Just spent a couple hundred bucks at scalehobbyist for paint and supplies along with four nicely priced racing kits.  I've got enough Tamiya and Mr. Color to last me a little while but will give these recommended paints a try as the need arises.. hopefully I'm set for the bulk of my supplies and will only need a little here and there from now on.  

Edited March 16, 2020 by jchrisf

[vintagerpm]

3 hours ago, jchrisf said:

Thanks Mike.. that SMS paint looks like a great deal if shipping is not too much.  Does anyone know what size the Splash paints are?  I couldn't find it on their website.  Just spent a couple hundred bucks at scalehobbyist for paint and supplies along with four nicely priced racing kits.  I've got enough Tamiya and Mr. Color to last me a little while but will give these recommended paints a try as the need arises.. hopefully I'm set for the bulk of my supplies and will only need a little here and there from now on.  

30ml (1 oz)

[Bainford]

On ‎3‎/‎14‎/‎2020 at 2:05 PM, jchrisf said:

I will be decanting a lot of Tamiya

I haven't seen it mentioned in this thread, but if you are decanting, be sure to let the decanted paint sit in the jar, uncovered for at least a half hour or more to de-gas. Perhaps more. It may help to cap and shake the bottle occasionally. Pressurised gas remains entrained in the decanted paint. Sometimes, if you give a bottle of decanted paint a stir or agitate the bottle, the paint will bubble up and overflow the bottle. When decanting, do not fill any bottle to the top for this reason. Decanting works well, but if the gas has not all escaped from the paint, you may encounter problems when spraying. When the paint passes through the body of the airbrush it encounters a low pressure area (at least, in my Badger 200 siphon feed, it does) which causes any remaining trapped gas to be expelled from the paint, screwing up the flow action within airbrush, and generally making a mess at the tip causing splatter, etc.

[peteski]

3 hours ago, Bainford said:

I haven't seen it mentioned in this thread, but if you are decanting, be sure to let the decanted paint sit in the jar, uncovered for at least a half hour or more to de-gas. Perhaps more. It may help to cap and shake the bottle occasionally. Pressurised gas remains entrained in the decanted paint. Sometimes, if you give a bottle of decanted paint a stir or agitate the bottle, the paint will bubble up and overflow the bottle. When decanting, do not fill any bottle to the top for this reason. Decanting works well, but if the gas has not all escaped from the paint, you may encounter problems when spraying. When the paint passes through the body of the airbrush it encounters a low pressure area (at least, in my Badger 200 siphon feed, it does) which causes any remaining trapped gas to be expelled from the paint, screwing up the flow action within airbrush, and generally making a mess at the tip causing splatter, etc.

Right on the money Trevor.  I leave the decanted paint sit for a day or two (with the jar lid not fully tightened, to let the gas escape.  When decanting, because pressure is released, the paint will be really cold.  If you decant on a hot humid day, the water in the air can condense on the bottle (and possibly into the paint).  I let the paint warm up to room temperature, then I never shape it (that will make a mess when you loosen the jar's lid (or don't have it tight to begin with). I only swish it gently to let the gas bubble up from the paint.  Even after sitting at room temperature with loose lid for a day, some gas will still be bubbling up when you swish the paint around the bottle.  That is why i said to let it sit for a day or two.

[jchrisf]

Thanks all.. I'm a big fan of @Zoom Zoom as I have read several of his articles, etc. and we have similar tastes in model cars.  I was planning on following his advice.  He says it doesn't take long for the decanted Tamiya paint to be ready to spray:

https://public.fotki.com/grdeyed/model_cars-1/decanting-spray-paint/

 

Edited March 16, 2020 by jchrisf

[peteski]

Good luck!

Sounds like he uses a cup (I use a jar).  The cup is much smaller (that is why I don't use it), and the gas can easily evaporate from the wide open cup.

Edited March 16, 2020 by peteski

[John1955]

I consider air brushes too much of a hassle to bother with. I did use them, but it's so time consuming to mix the paint, making it not too thick and not too thin, then after all that, you have to take the thing apart and clean it, no thanks, been there, done it, no more. 

I built my own spray painting booth, installed an exhaust fan with a vent to the outside, and went back to rattle cans. The selection of colors is almost unlimited, ANY brand and ANY kind of spray paint will work as long as you apply plastic suitable primer first (from rattle cans). Many award winning models have been made that way. 

[peteski]

26 minutes ago, John1955 said:

I consider air brushes too much of a hassle to bother with. I did use them, but it's so time consuming to mix the paint, making it not too thick and not too thin, then after all that, you have to take the thing apart and clean it, no thanks, been there, done it, no more. 

I built my own spray painting booth, installed an exhaust fan with a vent to the outside, and went back to rattle cans. The selection of colors is almost unlimited, ANY brand and ANY kind of spray paint will work as long as you apply plastic suitable primer first (from rattle cans). Many award winning models have been made that way. 

It is your hobby -- enjoy it your way.

[jchrisf]

12 hours ago, peteski said:

Good luck!

Sounds like he uses a cup (I use a jar).  The cup is much smaller (that is why I don't use it), and the gas can easily evaporate from the wide open cup.

Yeah, sounds like he only decants enough for what he is going to shot right away.

[Zoom Zoom]

15 hours ago, peteski said:

Good luck!

Sounds like he uses a cup (I use a jar).  The cup is much smaller (that is why I don't use it), and the gas can easily evaporate from the wide open cup.

I also use jars; now that Tamiya sells 3 different sizes of jars I prefer those over the Testors jars due to size limits and metal lids that get gummed up too easily. If I only need small quantities, I use a cup. 

[jchrisf]

I decanted my first paint today.  Dupont Acrylic Laquer Semi Gloss Black.  Did it like Bob Downie recommends and it worked great.  I was spraying it about 15 minutes after I decanted it.  I put a little Walmart Lacquer thinner in it and it sprayed beautifully.  This paint looks great out of the can but went on much better through my airbrush and I hardly used any compared to what I would have used spraying out of the can.  Dave Thibadeau is a fan of this paint I noticed on one of his new videos.  If you haven't seen his videos, you should check out his YT channel.  Some really great info learning from one of the masters.