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‘57 Chevrolet half ton pickup truck


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  • 4 months later...

Working on some weathering today. I also got the white airbrushed on last night. The bed is lighter than the cab because the bed is fiberglass, and this truck would be sitting outside so the sun would really get to it. 
 

I have not weathered the passenger side yet. 

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35 minutes ago, Rusty92 said:

The bed is lighter than the cab because the bed is fiberglass, and this truck would be sitting outside so the sun would really get to it. 
 

Looks good!  Thank you for knowing the bed sides are fiberglass!  I stopped counting how many rusty ones I’ve seen over the years!?

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40 minutes ago, TarheelRick said:

Going to be one fine truck.  One source for those tires and the 6-lug wheels is http://www.fireballmodels.info/  Very easy to work with.

Thanks for the heads up. I ended up getting a set from the Black Widow ‘57 Chevy.

 

6 hours ago, Tom Geiger said:

Looks good!  Thank you for knowing the bed sides are fiberglass!  I stopped counting how many rusty ones I’ve seen over the years!?

I originally did not know until I saw a for sale listing for a bed and it mentioned “no cracks.” The wheels got to turning and I figured they were fiberglass. Pretty cool!

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On 3/31/2020 at 8:24 PM, Tom Geiger said:

Be aware that Chevy trucks in this era had six lug wheels. I put five lug wheels on my first 55 and got yelled at!

Common upgrade on the 1:1's. CPP makes the parts for it. That's the angle I'd take. 

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Wow, Jacob, the rust and weathering looks gorgeous! Can you give a word on how you did it? A ground layer of rust or red-brown paint? Did you use salt grains and brushed them away after another paint layer? This is one battered work truck, I really like it!!! Take care, Juergen

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@HJK, thank you for the kind words. I will try to list out my steps as best as possible, if you have any questions on steps that may be unclear, please feel free to ask.

1) all body parts are primered in AK Interactive surface primer - rust. It is a very runny primer so I usually do several light layers. No more than 3 so I don’t lose detail. 

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2) I take a sponge (I prefer the yellow ones you can get at craft stores) and cut off a chunk, and distress the edges to create a random edge. After doing that I apply a variety of AK or Mig paints via the sponge. I use these 3 most often it seems, but they make a ton as I’m sure you know. As they say, a dab will do you. Make sure your sponge is not too saturated, change up how you hold it and where the it makes contact with the model. You’ll want to take a picture of this to use in step 5.
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3) Once that layer of paint has dried for a few days, give the model 2 light coats of hair spray and allow that to fully dry. Don’t worry if it goes on a little heavy, you can wipe it off and it will also evaporate a little bit. Cheap hairspray will work just as well as the high dollar stuff!
 

4) The hairspray should be dry after about an hour or so. Then you can paint the model/part your color of choice as you normally would. Or keep it lighter in some spots if you please to give it a faded look. 
 

5) let the paint dry for a few hours (maybe more depending on your paint) and begin chipping away at the layer of paint you just applied. Reference the photo in step 2 to focus on chipping the paint off where the rust was created underneath. To chip paint, I recommend doing a YouTube search, or clicking Here. I use water when the paint is coming off easily, and thinner when it is putting up a fight. It really depends on the paint and cure time. You can accomplish chipping with a stiff brush, or a soft brush and cutting off the hairs almost down to the nub. Here is a brush that I use to do my work. It can be quite aggressive at times so be careful. You can go through the hairspray and primer if you’re too rough. Below is the brush I use:
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6) After this I apply a variety of washes to the model. Rust streaks are accomplished by making vertical lines down the model with the rust enamel wash, and later blending them with white spirits. I watched This video to learn how to do this effect better. It is really handy. And if you goof it up, just wipe it up with some spirits and try again. You can put on the rust lines thick like in the video and “neck” them down to a smaller streak. For washes, I will liberally coat the model with track wash and let it sit to dry just a bit. Then I blend the wash better with enamel spirits, eliminating any brush marks along the way. 

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Jacob, Thank you very much for your elaborate explanation of your rusting and weathering steps maintained. I also watched a couple of the recommended videos. I learned a lot. I wouldn't have gotten the idea to use hairspray so that was interesting and new to me. Thanks again mate. Take care, Juergen

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  • 1 year later...

Not much change since one year ago. Finally got my new desk set up and I’m ready to finish this one. I have to order some paint but this will be one of the first to get done. Her it sits now. I do have 6 lug wheels, just not painted yet. 
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Thanks everyone for the encouragement! I got a little bit done tonight. There are two obvious flaws in my paintwork on the cab. Thanks to my fat fingers! 
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I was able to tackle the one on the cowl tonight, and I think it turned out pretty good. Good enough for me anyways. After all, the hood will be closed most of the time. See below:

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Hopefully tomorrow I’ll have some time to work on the back of the cab. I also got the inner fenders and core support painted. Not worried about the uneven lines as they will be blended with washes, grime, and other weathering materials. Thanks for stopping by and checking it out!

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12 hours ago, bisc63 said:

Don't forget a sizable oil stain underneath, remember it took 2 full quarts of 40 weight oil just to get'er to the Conoco station!

Can’t forget the oil! It’s a good song. 
 

A little bit of progress tonight. I used the hairspray method to chip my inner fenders. I did not go overboard with the rust effects. I’ll let it dry a bit more and dry brush some more dirt and grime on to it. 
 

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Today I got some work done on the wheels and seats. I also installed the glass, which is too small for this kit and barely fits in the opening. This kit is pretty good, but I think it leaves a lot to be desired. 
 

Here it is sitting on its 6 lug wheels. I will black-wash these to help the details stand out more.

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For the seat I started with just black seats and some “duct tape” which I made from Tamils masking tape painted silver. I will add these back later, but these alone were not enough for me. The interior needs to match the exterior and look a bit more beat-up. I roughed up the seats, added some scratches to simulate tears or cracks, I’ll add more when it’s painted. Making fine cracks prior to painting wouldn’t be wise as the paint will fill in the details.
 

After they were roughed up I applied yellow and ochre brown with a sponge to give a random patter for the foam. Once dry, I’ll use my chipping technique to simulate tears.

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The fit of the glass on these kits is poor to say the least.  On the last one did I added some small plastic stripes around the opening that would look like the black rubber moldings on the 1:1 and that seemed to offer just enough to fill the gap and give a gluing surface for the window.  

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1 hour ago, espo said:

The fit of the glass on these kits is poor to say the least.  On the last one did I added some small plastic stripes around the opening that would look like the black rubber moldings on the 1:1 and that seemed to offer just enough to fill the gap and give a gluing surface for the window.  

That’s a great idea. I thought about doing something similar but obviously decided to not do so. On the next Cameo I do I’ll clean it up more. 

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