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Dumb newb question: How to install seats


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This is a dumb question but I haven't built many models and I can never figure out exactly how the Revell/Monogram (maybe more) models have designed their models to install the seats.  There are two raised slits on the tub but the seat itself doesn't really have any indication on how it is to be glued to it.  What's the secret?

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Usually the seat edges will fit to the raised parts in some way. They may wrap around the edge or have some way to connect to the raised part on the base of the seat. It could be a step on the inside of the seat base or it could be a couple of pins. Theres quite a lot of variety sometimes but I'm sure you'll figure it out. Which kit is it? it might help for answers

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53 minutes ago, stitchdup said:

Usually the seat edges will fit to the raised parts in some way. They may wrap around the edge or have some way to connect to the raised part on the base of the seat. It could be a step on the inside of the seat base or it could be a couple of pins. Theres quite a lot of variety sometimes but I'm sure you'll figure it out. Which kit is it? it might help for answers

Thanks.. this is the Monogram 85' Mustang SVO.  

 

IMG_0378.JPEG

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Yeah, there are a lot of different ways they want you to mount the seats. Typically if there is just a straight bar molded into the floor board and the bottom of the seats are completely open you're meant to put the front edge of the bottom of the seat just to the dash board side of the bar. I put a drop or two of glue on the dashboard side of the bar then put the seat in a bit close to the dash and slide it back to make good contact with the bar.

I just saw the picture you posted, I don't have any idea about that. Check the instructions and make sure you aren't missing a part on the seat bottom, that would be my first step.

Edited by Fat Brian
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The thing I don’t like about a lot of kits is that the seats sit flat against the floor. In real life seats sit up on rail mounts and you can reach under them. Where it matters I will often add plastic scrap or strips in the underside hollow of the seat to build a wide flat mount to glue the seat to the floor. Best to have it raised a bit to give that appearance of that you could reach under it, even if I need to trim the seat bottom edges a bit to allow for the gap

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14 hours ago, Fat Brian said:

Yeah, there are a lot of different ways they want you to mount the seats. Typically if there is just a straight bar molded into the floor board and the bottom of the seats are completely open you're meant to put the front edge of the bottom of the seat just to the dash board side of the bar. I put a drop or two of glue on the dashboard side of the bar then put the seat in a bit close to the dash and slide it back to make good contact with the bar.

I just saw the picture you posted, I don't have any idea about that. Check the instructions and make sure you aren't missing a part on the seat bottom, that would be my first step.

If I do what you said it does appear to work.  I can feel the seat hit the raised area so I think I will do that.

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13 hours ago, Tom Geiger said:

The thing I don’t like about a lot of kits is that the seats sit flat against the floor. In real life seats sit up on rail mounts and you can reach under them. Where it matters I will often add plastic scrap or strips in the underside hollow of the seat to build a wide flat mount to glue the seat to the floor. Best to have it raised a bit to give that appearance of that you could reach under it, even if I need to trim the seat bottom edges a bit to allow for the gap

I wish they would put something in there that the seat could sit on perfectly so you know you have it right.

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54 minutes ago, peteski said:

If you want a more positive joint use a glue with some body to it (like 5-minute epoxy). It hardens by chemical reaction, so it will flow around the joined parts and harden.

Lately I've been using 5 minute epoxy on every part that was not glued plastic to plastic with Tamiya Extra Thin Cement.  It is a bit of a pain to measure, mix and get on all the parts without it hardening.  I think I need a different dispenser that will dispense equal amounts of both at the same time, quickly and in smaller amounts.  Do you have a favorite brand/dispenser?

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34 minutes ago, misterNNL said:

I know this is legit question.....but my social distanced smart blah -blah -blah -brain came up a flippant answer. That being that I personally try to glue my seats in so everyone inside the vehicle can see through the windshield. 

LOL.. on another model that had the same design for the seats, I somehow put it together so it held without glue.  Later when I went to attach it for good I couldn't get it to lock in place again.  I figured I was doing something wrong.

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Not a dumb question!  The easiest solution is to use a big glob of Tacky glue on each side under the seat.  The most complicated answer, is to use aluminum newspaper printing plate, fold over the edges, and make sliding seats (that could be a tutorial in itself).  Yes, I did that on this Porsche, but after it was done, I never played with it. ?

8123573028_bbedc9b050_k.jpg

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51 minutes ago, jchrisf said:

Lately I've been using 5 minute epoxy on every part that was not glued plastic to plastic with Tamiya Extra Thin Cement.  It is a bit of a pain to measure, mix and get on all the parts without it hardening.  I think I need a different dispenser that will dispense equal amounts of both at the same time, quickly and in smaller amounts.  Do you have a favorite brand/dispenser?

Try this epoxy in bottles. It's 9.99 at Hobby Lobby. With the 40% coupon about $6. The bottles are less messy, last longer and can be dispensed easier to exact mounts.

99219_5_Minute_Epoxy_4.5_oz_Stock_Photo__98427.1542814786.jpg

Edited by 935k3
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1 hour ago, jchrisf said:

Lately I've been using 5 minute epoxy on every part that was not glued plastic to plastic with Tamiya Extra Thin Cement.  It is a bit of a pain to measure, mix and get on all the parts without it hardening.  I think I need a different dispenser that will dispense equal amounts of both at the same time, quickly and in smaller amounts.  Do you have a favorite brand/dispenser?

As a matter of fact I do.  Well, not a dispenser but a technique.

I have a small container (about 1 oz.) with a flat lid.  Just something convenient to hold in my hand.  The lid is about 1.5" in diameter.  I cover it with a piece of wide plain old masking tape.

My epoxy comes in separate metal tubes.  I squeeze about a small pea size amount of the resin and hardener on one side of the lid, making sure they do not touch.  I mark the tape next to each puddle with R (resin) and H (hardener) using fine tip marker.

Then I use this setup like an artist would use his oil paint palette:  When I need to  mix a tiny amount of glue I take a fresh round wooden toothpick and scoop about a grain of rice size of resin, then deposit it on an unused edge of the "palette". I twirl the toothpick flat against the surface to clean of as much of epoxy as possible from the toothpick.  Then with that toothpick I scoop the same size dollop of hardener, and then place it next to the dollop of resin and start mixing them thoroughly.  I now have a tiny bit of mixed epoxy, ready for use.

I then use the toothpick I used for mixing, and apply the epoxy to wherever it is going to be used.  If I'm fast enough, I can then take a bit of a paper towel and wipe the leftover epoxy from the toothpick to get it ready for the next batch. If not, I just take a fresh toothpick and repeat this process on another unused part of my "palette".  That way I can mix 5 or 6  dollops of epoxy before I fill the "palette".  Once I have no more clean spots on it, I simply peel the tape off the lid and repeat the whole process.  Once you do this few times, you'll get the hang of it as far as how much of the liquids to initially dispense onto the "palette".

This way I end up with a very little waste, and measuring tiny amounts of the resin and hardener is easy using a toothpick. If you are off portioning the ingredients, you can just scoop off a little to the side.  I always start with resin. If I started with hardener, then used the same toothpick for resin, I might contaminate the remaining larger pool of resin with hardener. With such a small amount it probably wouldn't be harmful, but I'm not taking any chances.

I suppose you could create a larger palette with a disposable surface, but I find my little one handy to handle.

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I picked up this stuff from Michael’s a couple of weeks ago and love it!  Was only a little tube, but for a couple of bucks I figured I’d try using something other than regular cement or CA:

0DF36502-2AC8-4880-BD1A-11A120A1028D.thumb.jpeg.e66498db62878ad26b38b69fbc4e1fe9.jpeg

This mixes itself on the way out thanks to some little spiral-shaped paths in the nozzle, so it’s super easy to use too for anyone nervous about messing with epoxy for the first time!  Just used it to glue these seats in place (which also didn’t have very positive mounting locations):

FA651B12-D234-491D-89FB-FE07F032BCC9.thumb.jpeg.24bcf2e5675a35227e9b3f800e4a3472.jpeg

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5 hours ago, 89AKurt said:

Not a dumb question!  The easiest solution is to use a big glob of Tacky glue on each side under the seat.  The most complicated answer, is to use aluminum newspaper printing plate, fold over the edges, and make sliding seats (that could be a tutorial in itself).  Yes, I did that on this Porsche, but after it was done, I never played with it. ?

8123573028_bbedc9b050_k.jpg

I’d love to see more on that build - is there a thread somewhere Kurt?

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5 hours ago, peteski said:

I suppose you could create a larger palette with a disposable surface, but I find my little one handy to handle.

 I cut 3”x2” squares of glossy cardboard from frozen pizza boxes. Use ‘em once and toss them.

56 minutes ago, CabDriver said:

I picked up this stuff from Michael’s a couple of weeks ago and love it!  Was only a little tube, but for a couple of bucks I figured I’d try using something other than regular cement or CA:

0DF36502-2AC8-4880-BD1A-11A120A1028D.thumb.jpeg.e66498db62878ad26b38b69fbc4e1fe9.jpeg

This mixes itself on the way out thanks to some little spiral-shaped paths in the nozzle, so it’s super easy to use too for anyone nervous about messing with epoxy for the first time!

The problem with that is it will harden in the tip towards the outlet so it is a one time use unless it came with extra tips?

 

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16 hours ago, 89AKurt said:

Not a dumb question!  The easiest solution is to use a big glob of Tacky glue on each side under the seat.  The most complicated answer, is to use aluminum newspaper printing plate, fold over the edges, and make sliding seats (that could be a tutorial in itself).  Yes, I did that on this Porsche, but after it was done, I never played with it. ?

8123573028_bbedc9b050_k.jpg

I've got some Tacky Glue that I just picked up recently.  I'll have to give that a try too.  Beautiful Car!

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16 hours ago, 935k3 said:

Try this epoxy in bottles. It's 9.99 at Hobby Lobby. With the 40% coupon about $6. The bottles are less messy, last longer and can be dispensed easier to exact mounts.

99219_5_Minute_Epoxy_4.5_oz_Stock_Photo__98427.1542814786.jpg

Heck of a deal right there.  Thanks for the suggestion.

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15 hours ago, peteski said:

As a matter of fact I do.  Well, not a dispenser but a technique.

I have a small container (about 1 oz.) with a flat lid.  Just something convenient to hold in my hand.  The lid is about 1.5" in diameter.  I cover it with a piece of wide plain old masking tape.

My epoxy comes in separate metal tubes.  I squeeze about a small pea size amount of the resin and hardener on one side of the lid, making sure they do not touch.  I mark the tape next to each puddle with R (resin) and H (hardener) using fine tip marker.

Then I use this setup like an artist would use his oil paint palette:  When I need to  mix a tiny amount of glue I take a fresh round wooden toothpick and scoop about a grain of rice size of resin, then deposit it on an unused edge of the "palette". I twirl the toothpick flat against the surface to clean of as much of epoxy as possible from the toothpick.  Then with that toothpick I scoop the same size dollop of hardener, and then place it next to the dollop of resin and start mixing them thoroughly.  I now have a tiny bit of mixed epoxy, ready for use.

I then use the toothpick I used for mixing, and apply the epoxy to wherever it is going to be used.  If I'm fast enough, I can then take a bit of a paper towel and wipe the leftover epoxy from the toothpick to get it ready for the next batch. If not, I just take a fresh toothpick and repeat this process on another unused part of my "palette".  That way I can mix 5 or 6  dollops of epoxy before I fill the "palette".  Once I have no more clean spots on it, I simply peel the tape off the lid and repeat the whole process.  Once you do this few times, you'll get the hang of it as far as how much of the liquids to initially dispense onto the "palette".

This way I end up with a very little waste, and measuring tiny amounts of the resin and hardener is easy using a toothpick. If you are off portioning the ingredients, you can just scoop off a little to the side.  I always start with resin. If I started with hardener, then used the same toothpick for resin, I might contaminate the remaining larger pool of resin with hardener. With such a small amount it probably wouldn't be harmful, but I'm not taking any chances.

I suppose you could create a larger palette with a disposable surface, but I find my little one handy to handle.

That's a great idea.  I'm going to give this a try the next time I mix some up and see how it works out for me.

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11 hours ago, CabDriver said:

I picked up this stuff from Michael’s a couple of weeks ago and love it!  Was only a little tube, but for a couple of bucks I figured I’d try using something other than regular cement or CA:

0DF36502-2AC8-4880-BD1A-11A120A1028D.thumb.jpeg.e66498db62878ad26b38b69fbc4e1fe9.jpeg

This mixes itself on the way out thanks to some little spiral-shaped paths in the nozzle, so it’s super easy to use too for anyone nervous about messing with epoxy for the first time!  Just used it to glue these seats in place (which also didn’t have very positive mounting locations):

FA651B12-D234-491D-89FB-FE07F032BCC9.thumb.jpeg.24bcf2e5675a35227e9b3f800e4a3472.jpeg

The next time Michaels is open I'm going to use my coupon to get a tube of this and try it.  I like that it mixes itself.  You do great work.. that car is amazing like Kurt's!

Edited by jchrisf
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On 3/29/2020 at 6:56 PM, Tom Geiger said:

The thing I don’t like about a lot of kits is that the seats sit flat against the floor. In real life seats sit up on rail mounts and you can reach under them. Where it matters I will often add plastic scrap or strips in the underside hollow of the seat to build a wide flat mount to glue the seat to the floor. Best to have it raised a bit to give that appearance of that you could reach under it, even if I need to trim the seat bottom edges a bit to allow for the gap

That is exactly what I did when I built these two Mustangs. You can see the thin pieces that I made of Plastruct to raise the seats off the floor in these pics. Now even a short driver and passenger can see out the windshield as Tom said!

 

DSCN4835.JPG

blue stang int 2.jpg

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11 hours ago, NOBLNG said:

 

 I cut 3”x2” squares of glossy cardboard from frozen pizza boxes. Use ‘em once and toss them.

The problem with that is it will harden in the tip towards the outlet so it is a one time use unless it came with extra tips?

 

It doesn’t - but as far as I can work out it doesn’t mix until it’s right at the end of the tip maybe?  Doesn’t seem to have clogged up yet!  If it does I’ll just ditch the tip and mix it myself 

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