Jump to content
Model Cars Magazine Forum

Does Badger Stynylrez primer work with Lacquer?


Recommended Posts

I was watching Paul's videos on the International Scale modeler YT channel and his primer .. I'm guessing... is badger stynylrez primer rebottled for his company.  He uses it for everything and then sprays all kinds of different paints over it including lacquers.  Anyone tried this with success?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've sprayed lacquer nail polish over it thinned with hardware store lacquer thinner. I haven't shot automotive lacquer over it. I did have one failure when I thinned with xylene but not with the LT. I've shot enamel over Stynylrez many times, in fact I did my 1/16 scale Mercer that way. Good luck !

Link to comment
Share on other sites

12 hours ago, Dave G. said:

I've sprayed lacquer nail polish over it thinned with hardware store lacquer thinner. I haven't shot automotive lacquer over it. I did have one failure when I thinned with xylene but not with the LT. I've shot enamel over Stynylrez many times, in fact I did my 1/16 scale Mercer that way. Good luck !

Thanks Dave!  I think I'll give it a try.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Dave G. said:

Let us know how you make out ! I've been using it as my main primer now for a bit over two years.

I will.. I would love to have an acrylic primer that goes on smooth.  I love Paul's channel and his builds always turn out incredible.  Hopefully it doesn't stink and dries fast like most acrylics. What do you use to thin it?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 minutes ago, jchrisf said:

I will.. I would love to have an acrylic primer that goes on smooth.  I love Paul's channel and his builds always turn out incredible.  Hopefully it doesn't stink and dries fast like most acrylics. What do you use to thin it?

First of all it's basically odorless ( faint underlying sort of musky smell). It goes on like paint lol and levels out nice when dry. It will spray from the bottle but I often use a .25 needle and being lazy well that's not the best nozzle size for primer. So I cut it a little bit, takes very little thinning. I was using alcohol or a thinner I make up for craft paints and cutting 5-10% but then I found that Badger suggests just plain water. Funny you should ask because yesterday was the first time I tried water, very very little, maybe 3-4% plain water. It mixed right in and just cut the tension, mixed like light cream, sprayed on very smooth with the .25 needle. It dries in about 30 minutes but I like to give it a half day or so or cook it for 20 minutes in the dehydrator. You don't have to do this but I like to buff it with 000 steel wool, it will come out semi gloss if you do and gives a super smooth surface for your finish coats, plus pluck out any little flecks of dust you might not realize is there.. So happens this time I shot in the late afternoon so it's sat overnight.

Really clean your airbrush. I flush and backflush, then flush in running warm tap water about three cycles. Then use 91% ipa and run that through back flush, then flush with water again. I use a Qtip inside the nozzle end. Then one more flush with water fwiw. Worth a tear down if you will put the brush away for a while. But I'm usually painting again within hours. It really clings inside the brush and when it fully cures it's a bear to deal with then. So I make sure it's well flushed out. I do a lot of craft paints for my color coats these days, so I'm often following up with acrylic.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Dave G. said:

First of all it's basically odorless ( faint underlying sort of musky smell). It goes on like paint lol and levels out nice when dry. It will spray from the bottle but I often use a .25 needle and being lazy well that's not the best nozzle size for primer. So I cut it a little bit, takes very little thinning. I was using alcohol or a thinner I make up for craft paints and cutting 5-10% but then I found that Badger suggests just plain water. Funny you should ask because yesterday was the first time I tried water, very very little, maybe 3-4% plain water. It mixed right in and just cut the tension, mixed like light cream, sprayed on very smooth with the .25 needle. It dries in about 30 minutes but I like to give it a half day or so or cook it for 20 minutes in the dehydrator. You don't have to do this but I like to buff it with 000 steel wool, it will come out semi gloss if you do and gives a super smooth surface for your finish coats, plus pluck out any little flecks of dust you might not realize is there.. So happens this time I shot in the late afternoon so it's sat overnight.

Really clean your airbrush. I flush and backflush, then flush in running warm tap water about three cycles. Then use 91% ipa and run that through back flush, then flush with water again. I use a Qtip inside the nozzle end. Then one more flush with water fwiw. Worth a tear down if you will put the brush away for a while. But I'm usually painting again within hours. It really clings inside the brush and when it fully cures it's a bear to deal with then. So I make sure it's well flushed out. I do a lot of craft paints for my color coats these days, so I'm often following up with acrylic.

Thanks for the tips Dave... Glad to hear water works.  I'll have to see what Paul uses. .I'll post his video later where I heard about it.  I usually tear my airbrush down every time I use it and soak in Lacquer thinner.  Never do this with Vellajo.. I learned the hard way.  Do you think lacquer thinner will get rid of the left over badger?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

54 minutes ago, Modelbuilder Mark said:

I picked up a few colors a couple years ago, as I heard that made great barriers, but I have ony had a few chances to use them, but each time it worked out fine. 

 

Good to know Mark.. thanks!  Did you shoot Lacquer over it?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The last paint I shot over it was Scalefinishes, and I had no issues. Regardless, it is never a bad idea to always spray a spare part of the same plastic you are painting,this will then give you something to "test" before you shoot your project. So, if the kit has two hood for example, you could prime it all, then take the spare hood and test the paint on that for compatibility. 

Edited by Modelbuilder Mark
Link to comment
Share on other sites

40 minutes ago, jchrisf said:

Thanks for the tips Dave... Glad to hear water works.  I'll have to see what Paul uses. .I'll post his video later where I heard about it.  I usually tear my airbrush down every time I use it and soak in Lacquer thinner.  Never do this with Vellajo.. I learned the hard way.  Do you think lacquer thinner will get rid of the left over badger?

If you're using a standard needle ( .4-.6) or even a .35 you probably won't need to thin it at all. It really snuggles into every detail well. Don't over do the thinning. Soaking in lacquer thinner should work to soak it clean, I find 91 ipa to do well. My over night soaks I do now and then are lacquer thinner though and who knows what residue is inside my brushes, never had any trouble. Just make sure you really flush out the bulk of the Stynylrez ( plain water gets the bulk out) because it hardens up pretty quickly if not. It's good stuff, I think you will like it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, Dave G. said:

If you're using a standard needle ( .4-.6) or even a .35 you probably won't need to thin it at all. It really snuggles into every detail well. Don't over do the thinning. Soaking in lacquer thinner should work to soak it clean, I find 91 ipa to do well. My over night soaks I do now and then are lacquer thinner though and who knows what residue is inside my brushes, never had any trouble. Just make sure you really flush out the bulk of the Stynylrez ( plain water gets the bulk out) because it hardens up pretty quickly if not. It's good stuff, I think you will like it.

Thanks Dave.. plain ol water is nice and cheap and smells nice.. I can use lots of it to clean it out.  Yeah, I have all those airbrush needle ranges.  I'd prefer not to thin so I'll try it straight out the bottle.

2 hours ago, Modelbuilder Mark said:

The last paint I shot over it was Scalefinishes, and I had no issues. Regardless, it is never a bad idea to always spray a spare part of the same plastic you are painting,this will then give you something to "test" before you shoot your project. So, if the kit has two hood for example, you could prime it all, then take the spare hood and test the paint on that for compatibility. 

Thanks Mark.. I'll definitely test it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...