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C460_1.thumb.jpg.29191c25c17cf62f1ebd4fdbfffecea6.jpgC460_2.thumb.jpg.4a86ecdb9c53b185e32b19b9259cfe4b.jpg

1/32 Williams Bros Caudron

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1/32 Williams Bros "Firecracker"
GB_Z_1.thumb.jpg.6bc0414684c5ba08bc07754df7302786.jpg
1/32 Williams Bros Gee Bee Z
GBs.thumb.jpg.8c19fe55489287f8aba440d4d1c88e7a.jpgGB_R-1.thumb.jpg.03b09b3bf3f6c9d01979e99431a149ac.jpg
1/32 Williams Bros Gee Bee R-1
Gilmore_1.thumb.jpg.633d02dfdfae4da27034785a4b86e73d.jpg
1/32 Williams Bros Wedell-Williams
LT_Meteor_1.thumb.jpg.ee9816bbc9a334e4a9159979d5cca7d5.jpg

1/32 Laird-Turner Meteor
Seversky_1.thumb.jpg.31e52897147ffee5f63fe71032a63a35.jpg
1/32 Williams Bros Seversky S-2 Racer

 

Firecracker_2.jpg

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Where's Mr. Mulligan:lol:

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17 minutes ago, Snake45 said:

Where's Mr. Mulligan:lol:

Further down the shelf in the cabinet :) 1/48th scale racers to follow later!

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Posted (edited)

As Snake above knows, I like those 1930's Air Racing Planes. I've built a few myself. Yours looks good Tim. I hope you show us more soon. 

Edited by unclescott58

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Well done..!!!!  Waiting to do all mine one day and hope they're as beautiful as yours!

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Posted (edited)

Nice collection. Much inspiration.

How'd you do the flying and landing wires on the Gee Bees and Gilmore Special?

They look really good.

Edited by Ace-Garageguy

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Not a racer per se but definitely a 30's aircraft. Air speed recordBugatti - REVE BLEU - the "Blue Dream" will finally fly! by Scotty ...

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22 hours ago, Ace-Garageguy said:

Nice collection. Much inspiration.

How'd you do the flying and landing wires on the Gee Bees and Gilmore Special?

They look really good.

The “wires” on these are steel colored carpet thread.

I drill all of the holes prior to assembly.

The wires are coiled up and taped to the inside of the wing halves before assembling the wings.

Leave approximately 1/4” sticking out to grab onto later. A large knot in the inboard end keeps the line from pulling out completely when tightened.

I leave the engine/cowling and wheels off until final assembly. This allows me to pull the rigging out from the wings and thread them into the corresponding holes in the fuselage and wheel pants after paint and decals are applied.

Pull the lines taught with tweezers through the open end of the fuselage and wheel pants. Secure the lines with CA and trim the ends when dry.

The tail brace wires are taped inside one side of the fuselage with ends protruding from both sides. After painting, pull these up through the horizontal stab, thread them through the opposite sides of the horizontal stab. The ends of the lines will cross as they pass through the top of the vertical stab. Pull them tight from each side and secure with a drop of CA.

It takes some pre-planning but I find it to be worth it as there is little risk of damage to the finished model.

On biplanes you can do a similar technique by starting at the outboard “N” struts and working towards the fuselage.

 

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9 hours ago, Flynlo said:

The “wires” on these are steel colored carpet thread...

...On biplanes you can do a similar technique by starting at the outboard “N” struts and working towards the fuselage.

THANK YOU SIR !!!

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Thanks Snake, I have that kit but they are crude (pronounced "crud")

There were some unique aircraft offered by Pegaso: early Bonanza, Knight Twister racing Biplane and a few others. Most are re-treads of some of the earliest plastic airplane models made (I believe by Linberg ca. 1947) maybe 6-8 parts, no windows or interior, sprues the size of a child's finger. I have a couple built and partially painted but dumped them in a box and forgot about them.

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1 hour ago, Flynlo said:

Thanks Snake, I have that kit but they are crude (pronounced "crud")

There were some unique aircraft offered by Pegaso: early Bonanza, Knight Twister racing Biplane and a few others. Most are re-treads of some of the earliest plastic airplane models made (I believe by Linberg ca. 1947) maybe 6-8 parts, no windows or interior, sprues the size of a child's finger. I have a couple built and partially painted but dumped them in a box and forgot about them.

Yah, I know. I have the Navion. Or maybe I should say so-called Navion. 

Would love to find their Midget Mustang sometime, though. 

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21 hours ago, slusher said:

They look great!

Thanks Slusher!

 

 

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Posted (edited)

The midget Mustang is just as crude as the rest... sent one to a freind of mine who had been looking with no success as I had an original issue. He was thrilled to get it but not sure if he ever tried to build it.

Edited by Flynlo

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On 4/21/2020 at 10:07 AM, Flynlo said:

The “wires” on these are steel colored carpet thread.

I drill all of the holes prior to assembly.

The wires are coiled up and taped to the inside of the wing halves before assembling the wings.

Leave approximately 1/4” sticking out to grab onto later. A large knot in the inboard end keeps the line from pulling out completely when tightened.

I leave the engine/cowling and wheels off until final assembly. This allows me to pull the rigging out from the wings and thread them into the corresponding holes in the fuselage and wheel pants after paint and decals are applied.

Pull the lines taught with tweezers through the open end of the fuselage and wheel pants. Secure the lines with CA and trim the ends when dry.

The tail brace wires are taped inside one side of the fuselage with ends protruding from both sides. After painting, pull these up through the horizontal stab, thread them through the opposite sides of the horizontal stab. The ends of the lines will cross as they pass through the top of the vertical stab. Pull them tight from each side and secure with a drop of CA.

It takes some pre-planning but I find it to be worth it as there is little risk of damage to the finished model.

On biplanes you can do a similar technique by starting at the outboard “N” struts and working towards the fuselage.

 

I just bought the Lindberg Coca-Cola Gee Bee racer, because it was cheap and I want to play with it a little. (It looks like a good project for me to learn basic airbrushing, for one thing.) It comes with a loose coil of wire for the rigging, so of course I am already seeing some problems with making it taught when I assemble the model. Unfortunately, that model is made so I don't have access to the inside of the fuselage once I've glued it together, creating another challenge for tightening those wires. Do you have any suggestions on how I might be able to work this out?

I want to paint this model like the City of Springfield Model Z (as it appeared in "The Rocketeer"), even though what I have is an R2. That means I'm also trying to figure out how to do that big number 4.

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I would just coil the brace wires inside the fuselage passing them through the wing from above and below cutting them off after the glue sets. This would be similar to what is described for the tail brace wires above

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25 minutes ago, Flynlo said:

I would just coil the brace wires inside the fuselage passing them through the wing from above and below cutting them off after the glue sets. This would be similar to what is described for the tail brace wires above

Thanks.

I've bee out of modeling for more than twenty years, and back in the '90s I'm not sure there were forums like this online. There certainly weren't any of the resources now available. I've been doing a lot of reading and asking lots of questions. It really helps to have more experienced ears to bend, virtually speaking.

 

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If anyone is up for ruining their eyesight, Dorawings makes a 1/144 scale Gee Bee.
https://dorawings.com/products/1-144/55-dw14402-geebee-supersporster-r1ampr2.html
🙂

They also make 4 versions in 1/48 scale, including a military one.
https://dorawings.com/products/1-48/

These kit should be a leap in quality above the Williams Brothers kits.

Mike

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