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Next Moebius Ford truck kit?


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On 5/18/2020 at 1:53 AM, mk11 said:

Judging from a few of the comments in this thread, it appears the record should be set straight...

First off, the proportions on the amt '75-'79 F series trucks are as close to perfect as you're likely to find in a regularly priced kit. True, the upper windshield molding needs finessing and it was indeed a questionable decision to go with the super camper special box. These issues are easily fixed, especially with the availability of the resin corrected box.

Secondly, the much vaunted moebius 69-72 series borrowed much of its chassis and engine design from the amt kit. However nicely engineered these kits are otherwise, they share well known serious proportion issues in the roof design and other body areas. To be fair to moebius, this series design problems appear to be confined to this project alone, as their Hudson, Chrysler, Pontiac , Mercury and Plymouth kits appear to be well-spoken of. The '65/'66 F-series kits also show more effort spent on getting the proportions right.

Maybe this belongs in another thread - but how does one correct the windshield of the AMT kit?  I've seen where it's been done, but can someone point out a tutorial?  The only one I found has watermarked images ...

thanks!

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3 hours ago, Jonathan said:

Maybe this belongs in another thread - but how does one correct the windshield of the AMT kit?  I've seen where it's been done, but can someone point out a tutorial?  The only one I found has watermarked images ...

thanks!

IIRC the top of the windshield trim will be the top of the new window opening on top of that you will need to scribe new window trim.

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4 hours ago, gray07 said:

we need a 1981 to 93 dodge pickup. 2 wheel drive and 4 wheel drive

Amen to that.  I had an 84 4x4.  Slant six.  Ugh.  But it would go just about wherever it would physically fit!

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17 hours ago, Jonathan said:

Maybe this belongs in another thread - but how does one correct the windshield of the AMT kit?  I've seen where it's been done, but can someone point out a tutorial?  The only one I found has watermarked images ...

thanks!

I haven't done a tutorial. But, I came up with an easy fix when I built my '75. What I did was simply cut above the molding strip with a scriber until the molding strip was loose. I then made small cuts at the corners to free it from the body. I placed it back on the body in the new position and glued it back on. I had to add some styrene to the corners to finish it out. When this is done, the entire roof needs an additional .020 added to it. If not, the roof will look too thin.

20190203_120749-1.jpg.7f31231c0e86a45d8ba21fead63ed200.jpg

 

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8 hours ago, Plowboy said:

I haven't done a tutorial. But, I came up with an easy fix when I built my '75. What I did was simply cut above the molding strip with a scriber until the molding strip was loose. I then made small cuts at the corners to free it from the body. I placed it back on the body in the new position and glued it back on. I had to add some styrene to the corners to finish it out. When this is done, the entire roof needs an additional .020 added to it. If not, the roof will look too thin.

 

 

Thank you for that tip!  Regarding where you say the entire roof needs an extra .020 added - you mean in the front where the cutline will be?

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On 5/21/2020 at 8:07 AM, Plowboy said:

I haven't done a tutorial. But, I came up with an easy fix when I built my '75. What I did was simply cut above the molding strip with a scriber until the molding strip was loose. I then made small cuts at the corners to free it from the body. I placed it back on the body in the new position and glued it back on. I had to add some styrene to the corners to finish it out. When this is done, the entire roof needs an additional .020 added to it. If not, the roof will look too thin.

20190203_120749-1.jpg.7f31231c0e86a45d8ba21fead63ed200.jpg

 

I think your windshield is still too low. 

3B2F8486-46EA-4D99-8091-50B28FB12CA4.jpeg.aa73132982fa557a8869c7169639f7b9.jpeg

See here that the top of the windshield molding is parallel to the drip rail over the door. 

713CEC5E-D03D-42CB-808C-73B92E6D225A.jpeg.41171d652f97a0a7074a8d05ac21d1d8.jpeg

I worked with Model King on the 79 Ford pickup. Here’s a markup I did on the windshield of a test shot. I also advised that the drip rails were faint and misformed. Those changes couldn’t be done for that project. I also advised that the cab logos were too faint and there needed to be decals. That actually happened! 

The test shot I built is one of the trucks on the box art.

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If it's a Ford, I'm guessing it's going to be a 1957-'60. Aside from the super-rare AMT '60, that whole generation has been ignored. I could also see one of the Uni-body trucks coming along as the AMT kit is rare and expensive.

If a non-Ford happens, I suspect it'll be a 1960-'71 Dodge, or possibly a 1957-'59 Sweptside, with a Utiline version as well. 

Charlie Larkin

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12 minutes ago, Plowboy said:

I think it looks OK. 

47954739321_61bc722de4_b.jpg

It looks good finished. The top of your molding is parallel with the drip rail. It looked different in your progress shot. 

FD98ACAF-3307-499E-8FD0-EF29E5455F9F.jpeg.064ac3c8835a4e8509a03f9cb7155382.jpeg
 

Here’s the windshield right out of the box. I couldn’t fix this one since it’s from a test shot for the box art. I think everyone can see the difference.

The good part is that the kit glass still works once you correct the windshield.

 

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52 minutes ago, Luc Janssens said:

So if I converted correct, the top of the roof has to be raised a little over 5mm

BTW looks great!

 

No. The roof only needs .020. The windshield opening needs to be raised the width of the molding (+ - 2mms). 

Thanx!

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4 hours ago, Plowboy said:

No. The roof only needs .020. The windshield opening needs to be raised the width of the molding (+ - 2mms). 

Thanx!

That’s pretty much it. Use the top of the existing molding as your cut line. Then scribe a new molding above that. The existing windshield should work fine

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2 hours ago, Tom Geiger said:

That’s pretty much it. Use the top of the existing molding as your cut line. Then scribe a new molding above that. The existing windshield should work fine

If you cut the molding loose carefully, you can simply glue it back on and fill the corners. It gives the molding better definition. Also easier than scribing a new line.

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There is indeed another multi-year truck project at Moebius that isn't related to any of the Ford kits that exist, or are planned for release this year.  But people who know about stuff like that are sworn to secrecy until Moebius themselves are prepared to release that information to the public.  The one thing that Moebius doesn't have that the other domestic kit guys do - even Salvinos JR when they managed to swing acquisition of all the old Monogram NASCAR tooling - is a "reissue catalog" of kits they can crank out on the regular to help supplement the income between new tool releases.  So be patient, build some model kits, and eventually I'm guessing at least half the people in this thread will be happy.

Edited by niteowl7710
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3 hours ago, 89AKurt said:

I would go along with this!  But my first choice is the '68-'72 Chevy pickups, we have enough Fords now.  ?

It's surprising looking at the instructions for the AMT kit, in that the kit has a decently detailed engine compartment with separate underhood parts, as well as a multi-piece bed and well-proportioned body, and yet has a poor 3-piece(!) interior and promo-style chassis. I would love to see a better detailed group of trucks for this era similar to the F100 kits.

2WD Custom 1/2 ton Stepside Bed 292 I6

2WD Cheyenne 3/4 ton Long Bed 396/400 V8

4WD Custom Deluxe 1/2 ton Short Bed 327/350 V8

4WD Custom Deluxe 3/4 ton Long Bed 327/350 V8

This way there would be options for mixing and matching, and along with different years (to represent the different grilles) for the 4 would allow for nearly all options to be covered. Wishful thinking for now of course.

 

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