1/25 Revell 1969 Chevelle SS 396

[Ronrr]

3 hours ago, Casey said:

Yes, as I stated earlier, it sits too low in relation to the trim panel and bottom edge of the tail light buckets/trim. While it's hard to compare real 1:1 '69 Chevelle rear bumpers due to the fact that they may have been, well, bumped and tweaked over the years (which, looking online at images seems to be common, though not a major misalignment issue). That said, out of the dozen rear angle images of 1:1 '69 Chevelles I viewed online, I did not find any which had the excessive gap as found on the kit part.

I think the presence of the side stripe makes it difficult to judge exactly where the rear quarter panel peak lies, and it seems to be a rather soft, not crisp, peak, too, so I think that is a factor, too. Again, from viewing a dozen images online, the quarter panel peak appears to terminate even with the horizontal divider which separates the upper and lower tail light bezels/lenses. They blue built model I posed earlier (I'm guessing Ron probably knows who built it?) has the white side stripe already applied, making comparisons with the 1:1 '69 Chevelle a challenge. I'll wait to see a member's built model sans side stripe to decide if the quarter panel peak is too high on the Revell body or not.

We all know and realize there's a human element when designs, measurements, and specifications are transferred from a real car or blueprints to a computer, and the end result isn't always 100% accurate. While I don't see any gross errors on this '69 Chevelle like I saw on the Revell '90 Mustang LX notch (yeah, I SAID IT) kit's body, the gap between the rear bumper and the quarter panel caps, tail light bezels, and trim panel does seem too large to me. Fortunately, I think this can be remedied, IF all else is correct, by separating the bumper and the section above it, then mounting the bumper a bit higher.

Here's the screenshot from Chris' review video, showing the gap I mentioned:

 

Both a 1:1 '69 Chevelle and Malibu for comparison:

 

I can hear Harry interjecting that you can't directly compare 1:1 vehicles with their scale counterparts, but we disagree on that one, so I'll continue. I will admit on both cars above, the rear bumper appears a bit misaligned, or it could be due to the higher viewing angle at which the photo was taken. Regardless if the slightly inconsistent gap present on both, the gap between the rear bumper's wrap-around ends and the bottom edge of the quarter panel caps is much smaller on the real cars than on the built up blue model used by Revell.

I also think the tail light bezel-to-quarter panel end cap fit on the 1:1 is an incredibly tricky fit, and perhaps it's not even possible to pull off when things are reduced to 1:25 scale. I guess we'll see as more are built.

You are on the right track here. The rear side marker lights were set to high, the top edge needs to be dropped to where the bottom edge is and the bumper gap needs to be reduced by 50% or to suit your personal preference. I would not expect that Revell would be willing to invest in these types of revisions. These are the types of things that can go wrong during the course of a project that is going under constant revision a world apart with strict financial and time constraits. Fortunately the parts are or should be pretty accurate just placed a little out of position. And yes, the '69 style taillights were almost impossible to engineer to scale due to wall thickness standards. The taillights are accurate and lightyears ahead of previous efforts that have been offered prior to this new kit.

[Snake45]

3 hours ago, randyc said:

Ok, I'm looking at this instead of working.   The SML is too high as previously stated.    Top of it should be slightly below level of lower lens divider.  Which would let hte stripe go lower.   Use the decals instead of molded SML I guess?  To give it dimension, maybe leave it on the decal paper, paint/marker the edges, and glue to side of car.  Or apply to a think piece of sheet and apply. 

New SMLs would be ridiculously easy to make. Just foil-copy the SMLs on the body, and fill the backs with epoxy, UV, or even good white glue. Paint the lenses. File/sand off the SMLs from the body. Apply your few foil SMLs after paint and final polish. You can even apply them after applying the stripe decals, if you choose to use the stripes (as I mentioned, not all cars had the stripes back in the day). 

[StevenGuthmiller]

Has anybody tried to fit the rear chrome from the Revell kit to the AMT kit?

Just curious.

 

 

 

 

Steve

[Ronrr]

24 minutes ago, StevenGuthmiller said:

Has anybody tried to fit the rear chrome from the Revell kit to the AMT kit?

Just curious.

 

 

 

 

Steve

The AMT body is an 1/8" narrower at the front and back as I recall. This was verified by the Chevy factory drawings used to develope the Revell kit and by research dimensions that were taken.

[Motor City]

I thought I was at work with all of the abbreviations flying around!  Geez.  I had to re-read the entire thread to realize that "SML" is side marker light.  

[Rodent]

1 minute ago, Motor City said:

I had to re-read the entire thread to realize that "SML" is side marker light.

Smell My Life?

[Rodent]

It appears to me that the marker is mostly in the right place vs. the point on the fender cap, but the point on the fender cap is in the wrong place vs. the taillight divider. Oh, well. Mine will be either a gut donor for an AMT body or it will sit on the Shelf of Doom until I can score a rear bumper that doesn't have screwed up chrome.

 

[sfhess]

SML = lazy typist. ?

[randyc]

13 hours ago, Snake45 said:

New SMLs would be ridiculously easy to make. Just foil-copy the SMLs on the body, and fill the backs with epoxy, UV, or even good white glue. Paint the lenses. File/sand off the SMLs from the body. Apply your few foil SMLs after paint and final polish. You can even apply them after applying the stripe decals, if you choose to use the stripes (as I mentioned, not all cars had the stripes back in the day). 

I've never had good luck with that so I didn't mention that.   At that size, I'll probably lose the first 48 I make.   I might try it though.

Pony Express is supposed to be bringing my kit today (small town life).   I HAVE to have stripes.  Just me.  If it had factory lace graphics, I'd have to use them.  LOL 

[Snake45]

8 hours ago, sfhess said:

SML = lazy typist. ?

Efficient typist. 

[tbill]

2 hours ago, Snake45 said:

Efficient typist. 

Wouldn’t that be 

ET? ?

[randyc]

SO I have mine in my hands.   Have been through the instructions because I figure spreading the whole kit over my desk is not appropriate while the boss is here.     This won;t be a big thing to most of us, but the color callouts are inccorect in several places.   You *might* have a blue carb (2 letter Cs)  if you follow them.  And two different colors of exhaust manifolds  Shift ball color, H, doesn't exist in the instructions and surely the boot is not silver?   As I said, not a big deal to those of us that rarely look anyway.   But to some folks, it might cause some consternation.   

I did go through and mark DECALS, because I inevitably end up with some extras I missed.  This kit has an extensive sheet.  The gauges would seem to be inccorect as there was not an option fo rhte tach in teh center hole.  It was either a CHEVELLE emblem or the clock.  http://chevellestuff.net/1969/69ss.htm.  No one will ever know or see what is in there.  

And there is a note to carefully align the end caps to fit with bumper.  

Here is a reasonably good reference page with color possibilities and some detail stuff.   http://chevellestuff.net/1969/index.htm  My idea for Gold exterior and gold interior was not possible.   BUT black outside with either of two  greens interior was.  Just not on my kit.  ?

 

[drodg]

22 hours ago, Rodent said:

LOL, after I posted this, I started thinking about the 68 Mustang that I owned from 1977-2001. The top edge of the end caps weren't even the same shape as the tops of the quarters. Quarters were more "dipped" and the caps were straighter. Original car, original paint.

I know.  I have had multiple muscle cars over the years and fit and finish not so great!

[espo]

2 hours ago, randyc said:

SO I have mine in my hands.   Have been through the instructions because I figure spreading the whole kit over my desk is not appropriate while the boss is here.     This won;t be a big thing to most of us, but the color callouts are inccorect in several places.   You *might* have a blue carb (2 letter Cs)  if you follow them.  And two different colors of exhaust manifolds  Shift ball color, H, doesn't exist in the instructions and surely the boot is not silver?   As I said, not a big deal to those of us that rarely look anyway.   But to some folks, it might cause some consternation.   

I did go through and mark DECALS, because I inevitably end up with some extras I missed.  This kit has an extensive sheet.  The gauges would seem to be inccorect as there was not an option fo rhte tach in teh center hole.  It was either a CHEVELLE emblem or the clock.  http://chevellestuff.net/1969/69ss.htm.  No one will ever know or see what is in there.  

And there is a note to carefully align the end caps to fit with bumper.  

Here is a reasonably good reference page with color possibilities and some detail stuff.   http://chevellestuff.net/1969/index.htm  My idea for Gold exterior and gold interior was not possible.   BUT black outside with either of two  greens interior was.  Just not on my kit.  ?

 

Thank you for the links. These offer a wealth of knowledge for anyone wanting to do a 100 % showroom build. As you mentioned they left off the optional in dash Tach. Being an option it may be possible that they overlooked it for some reason. 

[randyc]

24 minutes ago, espo said:

Thank you for the links. These offer a wealth of knowledge for anyone wanting to do a 100 % showroom build. As you mentioned they left off the optional in dash Tach. Being an option it may be possible that they overlooked it for some reason. 

According to those links, there was NOT a 1:1 tach option.  I think I was unclear.   The Revell decals are incorrect per that Chevelle page.  But that's not to say there isn't a center tach option.   I don;t know - I just noticed that in looking over the decals.  Should be a clock and tach goes in right hole with gauges surrounding it instead of idiot lights.   I'll build what is supplied; no one will notice it that sees my models.  

[Rodent]

I haven't looked at my decals under a high powered magnifier, but I think this is what they were trying for.

 

 

 

[Rodent]

On 8/2/2020 at 1:36 PM, Rodent said:

So, I attached the end caps on mine and started to mock up the rear bumper fit. It doesn't look as bad as the picture, but the chrome on my bumper is all screwed up. Of course, no replacement parts from Revell can be shipped to the US due to Covid. Guess I will probably have to keep an eye on eBay for the vultures to get their hands on one. It's too large and not in a spot that I want to try Molotow on.

OK, just for fun, I did a light coat of SpazStix over a piece of chrome tree from the kit (without the black undercoat). It matches the kit chrome well enough that I may go forward with modifying this bumper to fit better and then SpazStixing it just before installation.

[randyc]

15 hours ago, Rodent said:

I haven't looked at my decals under a high powered magnifier, but I think this is what they were trying for.

 

 

 

Probably.  But I don't think that's what they actually did.  

[randyc]

12 hours ago, Rodent said:

OK, just for fun, I did a light coat of SpazStix over a piece of chrome tree from the kit (without the black undercoat). It matches the kit chrome well enough that I may go forward with modifying this bumper to fit better and then SpazStixing it just before installation.

l

Looks good.  Hope it works.  

[randyc]

Ok, started messing with mine this weekend.  Having to sand down the bad primer, but here is some test fitting. I'll put a tiny little filler piece to spam the gap, probably.  Leave the bumper gap.  Just my solution that suits me.  When displayed, it will be above eye level, on shelf at top of room.  I doubt anyone seeing my models will notice.  

[espo]

4 hours ago, randyc said:

Ok, started messing with mine this weekend.  Having to sand down the bad primer, but here is some test fitting. I'll put a tiny little filler piece to spam the gap, probably.  Leave the bumper gap.  Just my solution that suits me.  When displayed, it will be above eye level, on shelf at top of room.  I doubt anyone seeing my models will notice.  

The end caps look almost like the 1:1's were from the factory since they usually didn't match all that well anyway. The Bumper gaps are a little wide but the main thing is to have the bumper not tilted up or down on the end otherwise it will draw the eye to it.  

[hpiguy]

On 8/2/2020 at 4:01 PM, 1972coronet said:

Other than the (frustrating) scuff on the rear bumper , that assembly looks quite nice ---- look at those tail lamp buckets' details ! 

Chris ( hpiguy , et alia ) built one (already posted in this thread) , and it looks like a wonderful kit . He didn't mention any issues with fitment nor with assembly ; how's the fit on your example ?

I usually don't mention this in the video, I just say two days, but the actual working time on this kit was about 9 hours total (not including overnight paint drying time of course). I usually assemble and get it into main paint on day one, then do all the detailing, handpainting, final assembly and decals on day too.

9 hours from pieces to finished kit, and I stopped to make a video and took pics, etc of it during that time too.

I'm my opinion as a guy who builds kits up fast for reivew and not perfection model competition levels, this thing fell together and was crazy easy to detail. Usually the more complex kits add a few hours of time to work on them, but not this one. Even the multi -piece side mirrors which almost always get me cussing glued together the first try with little fuss.

for someone looking to make a model able to win a model competition, they have such an amazing kit to start with. 

If I can get this result out in 9 hours, imagine what a superdetailer could do over a few weeks.

[Dragonhawk1066]

3 hours ago, hpiguy said:

I usually don't mention this in the video, I just say two days, but the actual working time on this kit was about 9 hours total (not including overnight paint drying time of course). I usually assemble and get it into main paint on day one, then do all the detailing, handpainting, final assembly and decals on day too.

9 hours from pieces to finished kit, and I stopped to make a video and took pics, etc of it during that time too.

I'm my opinion as a guy who builds kits up fast for reivew and not perfection model competition levels, this thing fell together and was crazy easy to detail. Usually the more complex kits add a few hours of time to work on them, but not this one. Even the multi -piece side mirrors which almost always get me cussing glued together the first try with little fuss.

for someone looking to make a model able to win a model competition, they have such an amazing kit to start with. 

If I can get this result out in 9 hours, imagine what a superdetailer could do over a few weeks.

Thanks for the info, Chris. I really enjoy your video reviews. They are instrumental in whether I feel the need for certain kits, especially when I see the parts break-down, if there are extra cool parts and wheels/tires. I love your weathering tips/tricks too, and your genuine passion for the hobby. Thanks for doing what you do!

[Rodent]

17 minutes ago, Dragonhawk1066 said:

Thanks for the info, Chris. I really enjoy your video reviews. They are instrumental in whether I feel the need for certain kits, especially when I see the parts break-down, if there are extra cool parts and wheels/tires. I love your weathering tips/tricks too, and your genuine passion for the hobby. Thanks for doing what you do!

Absolutely!

I bought the 1/16 Revell Porsche 356 coupe because I liked what I saw of it on the Model Workshop. There have been several other kits that I thought I would get and I wound up deciding NOT to buy because of what I saw on The Workshop. I know that Chris' sponsors don't want to hear that, but that is just me. I just appreciate seeing what is in the box before it's on the bench. Sometimes it is just that the subject matter isn't interesting enough to redo a meh kit.

BTW: The Revell 69 Chevelle rear bumper is a giant oozing zit on the face of an otherwise very nice kit. I also wish they hadn't tried and failed at the hood hinges. They look nice, but the slashes in the firewall make the car look like a cheap diecast. I will most likely omit the hinges and fill the slashes.

 

[RichCostello]

The rear bumper in my kit looks fine to me. Am I missing something?