Rookie mistakes

[Peterbilt359]

Here’s my rookie mistakes on my Revell 359 peterbilt cab during priming. I didn’t practice first and got excited because I was ready to get into this kit. Any recommendations on how I can get my mistakes removed? I’m thinking about using this as my reference model on what not to do on future models and just going ahead and painting and put the kit together. Mike

Edited May 18, 2020 by Peterbilt359
Grammar mistakes

[El Roberto]

You could always strip it and start over.  What kind of primer did you use? 

[Peterbilt359]

6 minutes ago, El Roberto said:

You could always strip it and start over.  What kind of primer did you use? 

I used a rattle can primer Rustoleum to be exact. What do I use to strip it and start over? Mike

[Jantrix]

That would be an expensive reference model. Remove the primer. Get a one gallon tupperware container and get a gallon of Super Clean from the automotive section at Walmart. Soak it and scrub with an old toothbrush ever couple of hours. The stuff is rough on skin, so gloves and eye protection recommended.

[Jantrix]

I'm not a fan of Rustoleum. Try Krylon.

[Peterbilt359]

4 minutes ago, Jantrix said:

I'm not a fan of Rustoleum. Try Krylon.

Thanks buddy I will try this method thanks for the feedback. Mike

[Peterbilt359]

The super clean you’re speaking of. Is it in like a purplish jug? Mike 

[Miatatom]

1 hour ago, Peterbilt359 said:

The super clean you’re speaking of. Is it in like a purplish jug? Mike 

Yeah, that's why you'll see folks talking about putting a model in the purple pond.

[peteski]

Practice your paint techniques on plastic spoons and empty soda bottles before laying down a coat of paint on your expensive model.  That way you will not have to strip it - just toss the mistakes out and try again.

And a friendly comment: The primer coat you applied seems a bit on the heavy side.  Once you add paint coat, and clear, the model will look like it was dipped in honey (most of the surface detail will be lost).  I know you are just starting the hobby, that is why I am suggesting practicing on some disposable items.

[Peterbilt359]

2 minutes ago, peteski said:

Practice your paint techniques on plastic spoons and empty soda bottles before laying down a coat of paint on your expensive model.  That way you will not have to strip it - just toss the mistakes out and try again.

And a friendly comment: The primer coat you applied seems a bit on the heavy side.  Once you add paint coat, and clear, the model will look like it was dipped in honey (most of the surface detail will be lost).  I know you are just starting the hobby, that is why I am suggesting practicing on some disposable items.

Thanks for the advice brother I think next time also I’ll shoot gray primer then white primer so I can see a little better 

[peteski]

2 minutes ago, Peterbilt359 said:

Thanks for the advice brother I think next time also I’ll shoot gray primer then white primer so I can see a little better 

You're welcome.

If I understand you want to apply 2 layers of primer? My recommendation is to use as few of paint layers as possible. Each layer builds up paint thickens on the model. You want your paint to stay as thin as possible. Whenever I can, I don't even use primer (when I use plastic safe model paints).

[El Roberto]

The Super Clean works great. You can pick it up at Wal Mart, probably a lot of other places as well.   The safety advice was correct, this stuff will dry out your hands and burn eyes.   

One more tip, don't use a aluminum container to soak the parts in.  It will eat holes in the aluminum.   (from one who learned the hard way)

[StevenGuthmiller]

8 hours ago, Peterbilt359 said:

The super clean you’re speaking of. Is it in like a purplish jug? Mike 

Just so you're aware, some primers can be quite resistant to Super Clean.

It's great stuff, but it doesn't work for everything.

If it doesn't do well with the primer that you used, some 91% (or higher) isopropyl alcohol can work well with primer.

 

Most of all, if buying Super Clean, do yourself a big fat favor and get the real deal.

Products like Purple Power and Simple Green are poor substitutes.

 

 

 

 

Steve

Edited May 19, 2020 by StevenGuthmiller

[Peterbilt359]

1 hour ago, StevenGuthmiller said:

Just so you're aware, some primers can be quite resistant to Super Clean.

It's great stuff, but it doesn't work for everything.

If it doesn't do well with the primer that you used, some 91% (or higher) isopropyl alcohol can work well with primer.

 

Most of all, if buying Super Clean, do yourself a big fat favor and get the real deal.

Products like Purple Power and Simple Green are poor substitutes.

 

 

 

 

Steve

If I have to use alcohol how long do I soak it before I start stripping it? And thank you for responding. Mike

[StevenGuthmiller]

2 minutes ago, Peterbilt359 said:

If I have to use alcohol how long do I soak it before I start stripping it? And thank you for responding. Mike

There are really no set times with any of these chemicals.

Just check on it every so often to see how it is progressing.

When it starts coming off, take it out and scrub it.

Re-soak as necessary.

 

Might take an hour, might take a week.

 

 

 

 

Steve

[Peterbilt359]

25 minutes ago, StevenGuthmiller said:

There are really no set times with any of these chemicals.

Just check on it every so often to see how it is progressing.

When it starts coming off, take it out and scrub it.

Re-soak as necessary.

 

Might take an hour, might take a week.

 

 

 

 

Steve

I need to add I used rustoleum primer(mistake should’ve used krylon) I did find 91% alcohol at CVS so I’ll pick me up a bottle tomorrow and hopefully I’ll have this rascal stripped down and re-primed tomorrow evening. Thanks for your advice. Mike 

[peteski]

Not sure what the temperatures are right now where you live, but I like to mention that all stripping solutions work better when they are warm.  For example it might take the stripper few days to soften paint at 50 deg. F, but it will work much faster if the liquid is warm (like 80-90 deg. F).  But you don't want it too hot either.

[Chariots of Fire]

Don't use Rustoleum at all for painting models.  It goes on too thick and takes forever to dry.  Duplicolor used to have good primers but they are now hard to come by.  I found Krylon gray primer/filler to be a good substitute.  It goes on smooth and is not heavy.  It takes a bit to build it up to good coverage but it dries quickly and is very sandable.

Michael:  Let us have a look at the rest of the model.  It might help in seeing it at a whole as to what is best in terms of rectifying the flaws.

[Peterbilt359]

1 hour ago, Chariots of Fire said:

Don't use Rustoleum at all for painting models.  It goes on too thick and takes forever to dry.  Duplicolor used to have good primers but they are now hard to come by.  I found Krylon gray primer/filler to be a good substitute.  It goes on smooth and is not heavy.  It takes a bit to build it up to good coverage but it dries quickly and is very sandable.

Michael:  Let us have a look at the rest of the model.  It might help in seeing it at a whole as to what is best in terms of rectifying the flaws.

 

[Peterbilt359]

Here’s the parts I’ve already primed

[Chariots of Fire]

They look ok to me.  If you can re-do the cab I think you have a shot at a good rig.  If you are able to strip it make sure you wash it good with soap and water afterward.  Any little bit of paint remover left will ruin what you are trying to do.

[Peterbilt359]

32 minutes ago, Chariots of Fire said:

They look ok to me.  If you can re-do the cab I think you have a shot at a good rig.  If you are able to strip it make sure you wash it good with soap and water afterward.  Any little bit of paint remover left will ruin what you are trying to do.

Charles I’m going to try 91% alcohol as this is all I can afford right now. Have you used it to strip your builds? I see others on this thread have. I’m on fixed income and can’t afford a lot right now. Mike

[Chariots of Fire]

Have not used 91% alcohol so I don't know how it would react to the paint.  I have used oven cleaner on occasion but not that much.  The results will depend on whether the agent you are using reacts with the paint.  Some paints like Duplicolor don't like to come off.  Whereas model paints like Testors or Model Master will come off with little effort.  Hope things work for you.

[slusher]

8 hours ago, Peterbilt359 said:

Charles I’m going to try 91% alcohol as this is all I can afford right now. Have you used it to strip your builds? I see others on this thread have. I’m on fixed income and can’t afford a lot right now. Mike

You can use brake fluid to strip with and it will last along time if you make a  strip take for bodies. If you have old hoods and bodies they are good to practice painting.on also...

[randyc]

Watch this video.   I was having some issues with paint, so I went back to basics.   I watched this.   And it helped even though I've been building for almost 50 years now.   At 4:06 he starts the painting process.  Keeps his can moving pretty quick.  He says something like " DON'T HOSE IT.   Quick light coats.  His techniques will produce a finish suitable for MOST models short of show cars.