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69 Camaro Pro Touring t/t


DeeCee

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A lot of scratch building , modifications and Fabrication on this one,

pretty much everything was scratch built, body widened, and twin turbo Hemi/Chevy.

Paint is Dupli-color GINGER ALE ,

i'll let the pics  show you the rest ;)

 

 

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What a treat! Outstanding design and execution. It has all the looks of a modern pro-tourer EXCEPT no big wheels/thin tires that is all the rage today. Instead you've got plenty of rubber that makes me think of classic IMSA racrers. Well done sir.

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On 5/31/2020 at 8:51 PM, matthijsgrit said:

Astonishing!!! Great build. Love the paint, and that engine!! Wow.

Did you open up the fog lights to supply fresh air to the turbo’s?

And what did you use for the ‘stripes’ in the seats? Look’s like rope?

Thank you all,  :)

Yes , i opened up the fog lights for that purpose, and the stripes on the seats are embroidery cotton, stuck down with some white glue.

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3 hours ago, beeRS said:

This is STUNNING! The more I look, the more I see. Great work on every level.

How did you do those stripes? Is it paint or decal?

Thank's , the stripes are paint . I have a lot of trouble with decals. ;)

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15 hours ago, Claude Thibodeau said:

Hi!

You indicate your paint is Dupli-Color "Ginger Ale". But my real question is: what about the clear, and your polishing technique? Super results!

CT

I treat a model like the real car, automotive primer, blocked etc, Auto acrylic, and automotive clear, from a real paint shop,

that way you get quality.   I usually block back the clear and re-clear it aswell.  2000grit wet/dry. then polish with Autoglym  super resin polish

which is the same process I use when painting my 1:1 cars. hope this helps, the extra effort is worth it if you are after the glossy look mate.

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8 hours ago, DeeCee said:

I treat a model like the real car, automotive primer, blocked etc, Auto acrylic, and automotive clear, from a real paint shop,

that way you get quality.   I usually block back the clear and re-clear it aswell.  2000grit wet/dry. then polish with Autoglym  super resin polish

which is the same process I use when painting my 1:1 cars. hope this helps, the extra effort is worth it if you are after the glossy look mate.

Hi Dale!

Thanks for the reply.

I too do custom painting on 1/1 cars and rods. Mostly use HOK clears and Farecla compound and G-Mops.

However, I find automotive clear is too hard for polishing "harmlessly" on plastic bodies without generating the heat required to get it to flow under the buffing action. A steel body can accept such heat/pressure in polishing, plastic is more fragile, That is why I mostly use Testor's Wet Look clear (in spray cans), followed by wet  block sanding (with a supple eraser as a block) with 2000, 3000 and 6000, and hand polishing. 

Usually works fine (see Javelin below). 

Regards,

CT

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