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DeeCee

69 Camaro Pro Touring t/t

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A lot of scratch building , modifications and Fabrication on this one,

pretty much everything was scratch built, body widened, and twin turbo Hemi/Chevy.

Paint is Dupli-color GINGER ALE ,

i'll let the pics  show you the rest ;)

 

 

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Wow, very nice work with an awesome look, i really like the body paint work and the colors, your model is very neat !!!???

Edited by grodudulle77

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Wow! Excellent craftsmanship. The color is gorgeous too. I like the work on the seats. I have no idea how you did them so cleanly.

Later-

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I'm not really into the "Pro Touring" thing, but this Camaro might change my mind! Paint, colors, interior, engine, wheels/tires, all perfect!

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Awesome build! It’s incredible beautifull and flawless! Looks like a 1:1! Is that the 1:12 or 1:25? 

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Astonishing!!! Great build. Love the paint, and that engine!! Wow.

Did you open up the fog lights to supply fresh air to the turbo’s?

And what did you use for the ‘stripes’ in the seats? Look’s like rope?

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If I ever gave up my love for Mustangs this might be the one to do it.  That is one really nasty Camaro.  It just looks ready to 'eat your lunch' along with anything else you might have driven up.  Great job.

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Very classy indeed! Perfect "mean but beautiful" look!

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Amazing build on every level.  You can see a ton of work and many hours went into this one.  The detail is top notch and the colors set it off perfectly.  Very, very impressive.

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What a treat! Outstanding design and execution. It has all the looks of a modern pro-tourer EXCEPT no big wheels/thin tires that is all the rage today. Instead you've got plenty of rubber that makes me think of classic IMSA racrers. Well done sir.

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This is STUNNING! The more I look, the more I see. Great work on every level.

How did you do those stripes? Is it paint or decal?

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On 5/31/2020 at 8:51 PM, matthijsgrit said:

Astonishing!!! Great build. Love the paint, and that engine!! Wow.

Did you open up the fog lights to supply fresh air to the turbo’s?

And what did you use for the ‘stripes’ in the seats? Look’s like rope?

Thank you all,  :)

Yes , i opened up the fog lights for that purpose, and the stripes on the seats are embroidery cotton, stuck down with some white glue.

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3 hours ago, beeRS said:

This is STUNNING! The more I look, the more I see. Great work on every level.

How did you do those stripes? Is it paint or decal?

Thank's , the stripes are paint . I have a lot of trouble with decals. ;)

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2 hours ago, DeeCee said:

Thank's , the stripes are paint . I have a lot of trouble with decals. ;)

Hi!

You indicate your paint is Dupli-Color "Ginger Ale". But my real question is: what about the clear, and your polishing technique? Super results!

CT

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15 hours ago, Claude Thibodeau said:

Hi!

You indicate your paint is Dupli-Color "Ginger Ale". But my real question is: what about the clear, and your polishing technique? Super results!

CT

I treat a model like the real car, automotive primer, blocked etc, Auto acrylic, and automotive clear, from a real paint shop,

that way you get quality.   I usually block back the clear and re-clear it aswell.  2000grit wet/dry. then polish with Autoglym  super resin polish

which is the same process I use when painting my 1:1 cars. hope this helps, the extra effort is worth it if you are after the glossy look mate.

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8 hours ago, DeeCee said:

I treat a model like the real car, automotive primer, blocked etc, Auto acrylic, and automotive clear, from a real paint shop,

that way you get quality.   I usually block back the clear and re-clear it aswell.  2000grit wet/dry. then polish with Autoglym  super resin polish

which is the same process I use when painting my 1:1 cars. hope this helps, the extra effort is worth it if you are after the glossy look mate.

Hi Dale!

Thanks for the reply.

I too do custom painting on 1/1 cars and rods. Mostly use HOK clears and Farecla compound and G-Mops.

However, I find automotive clear is too hard for polishing "harmlessly" on plastic bodies without generating the heat required to get it to flow under the buffing action. A steel body can accept such heat/pressure in polishing, plastic is more fragile, That is why I mostly use Testor's Wet Look clear (in spray cans), followed by wet  block sanding (with a supple eraser as a block) with 2000, 3000 and 6000, and hand polishing. 

Usually works fine (see Javelin below). 

Regards,

CT

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