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Made license plates without going to prison


Bills72sj

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I was in my garage at home and found this nice, thin aluminum duct. I remembered I have a collection of various license plate decals and I thought They would be great as wall art in my garage diorama. I went through all the steps to make them realistic as possible by even rounding off all the corners. Now if only I had a laser to make the holes...........

License plates 1.JPG

License plates 2.JPG

License plates 3.JPG

License plates 5.JPG

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On 6/6/2020 at 9:03 PM, Bills72sj said:

I was in my garage at home and found this nice, thin aluminum duct. I remembered I have a collection of various license plate decals and I thought They would be great as wall art in my garage diorama. I went through all the steps to make them realistic as possible by even rounding off all the corners. Now if only I had a laser to make the holes...........

Terrific idea! I almost never use the kit decals on the models.

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On 10/3/2020 at 7:14 AM, NOBLNG said:
On 6/6/2020 at 7:03 PM, Bills72sj said:

 

Terrific idea! I almost never use the kit decals on the models.

 

12 hours ago, BuilderX said:

Thanks for this tip! For yrs I have had a thin sheet of aluminum. now I know what to do with it!

Glad I could help inspire you guys.

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Flashing seems a bit thick for this task.  Soda can aluminum is good, but must be straightened.  I would get some cheap disposable aluminum roasting pans or cookie sheets from a dollar store (or supermarket).  Then cut them up and just use the flat pieces of aluminum.  To me that would be the right thickens for license plates, and it is easy to work with.

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I generally just leave them  on the backing paper, and finish the edge with paint, at least for models with the plates seated against the body work. I think flashing would work just fine, if it was hanging out on a bracket,  and the back is visible. Once its protective coating is sanded off, it's plenty thin! The best thing about using metal, is that it can be bent.

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6 hours ago, Straightliner59 said:

I generally just leave them  on the backing paper, and finish the edge with paint, at least for models with the plates seated against the body work. I think flashing would work just fine, if it was hanging out on a bracket,  and the back is visible. Once its protective coating is sanded off, it's plenty thin! The best thing about using metal, is that it can be bent.

Bent and straightened. One of the reasons I chose it was for the reflectivity of the metal through the the transparent decals.

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When I need to make license plates for my builds, I use the foil (lead/aluminum?) that seals the neck of wine bottles - the ones with corks, not the screw caps.  It is nice and thin and very malleable.  I simply soak it in lacquer thinner to remove the outside paint and then apply the license plate using white glue or canopy glue.  Sometimes I will substitute and use double sided tape to secure the plate.  By using this method, it gives me the option of making the plate look untouched or I can damage it by slightly bending and twisting the foil.

Also, I go online and use Acme License Maker to make personalized plates.  I copy the original plate and then reduce that by 50% and then reduce that again by 50% and that gives me a plate suitable for 1/24 and 1/25.

Now you have a reason to have a glass wine while you are building that next masterpiece.  Enjoy!!

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