Art Laski Posted September 20, 2020 Share Posted September 20, 2020 Neat project, Andrew! I like the fab work you've done so far. -Art Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
absmiami Posted September 21, 2020 Author Share Posted September 21, 2020 Most of!these parts will get a few changes but everything will fit and all of these parts have pegs that will hold them in place after painting And glueing ... and thanks to mr L ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Justin Porter Posted September 21, 2020 Share Posted September 21, 2020 Loving seeing these updates to an older resin kit. Probably one of my favorite forms of modeling is builders who look at a part and just say "That doesn't look like the real thing" and then proceed just as you do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
absmiami Posted September 21, 2020 Author Share Posted September 21, 2020 Yup don’t you hate the castings that have 3 or 4 parts cast as one - with each part intended it have a different color or finish how many engine blocks do you own that have a lump cast into it that is supposed to be the starter motor ...?? that’s how scratch building starts - but you probably already knew that ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
absmiami Posted September 22, 2020 Author Share Posted September 22, 2020 Exhibit A ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
absmiami Posted September 22, 2020 Author Share Posted September 22, 2020 So if you’ve shelled out lots of cash for Tamiya’s 300 sl kit you know what I mean. While it is a very good kit T could have casted a stand alone starter to place into the base of the engine block. Not asking too much - how bout it, T. ?? There, rant over - I feel better now ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Justin Porter Posted September 28, 2020 Share Posted September 28, 2020 On 9/22/2020 at 1:30 PM, absmiami said: So if you’ve shelled out lots of cash for Tamiya’s 300 sl kit you know what I mean. While it is a very good kit T could have casted a stand alone starter to place into the base of the engine block. Not asking too much - how bout it, T. ?? There, rant over - I feel better now ... I have a Studebaker Avanti project that I got totally burned out on because I was trying to do things like correct a molded in starter and remove ejector pin marks in chrome parts and on and on down the list. And I adore the Studebaker Avanti as a gorgeous car but just couldn't keep beating my head against the wall that was the AMT kit with my tools and techniques at the time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
absmiami Posted September 29, 2020 Author Share Posted September 29, 2020 You are referring to the old Revell ? Kit ?? Don’t give up. It was very detailed and has great potential. And one of my favorite cars. more on the engine. - the 32B used side draft Webers - which was the general choice for the Climax FPF. I’m using some castings of a Weber that I made years ago. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
absmiami Posted September 29, 2020 Author Share Posted September 29, 2020 When I made the master - I made the body of the carb just a little too tall . So I’m performing a Weber lobotomy. I sawed the cap off - sanded away about .020 - and then epoxied the cap back on - and then the same on the second carb. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
absmiami Posted September 29, 2020 Author Share Posted September 29, 2020 The carbs will be pegged into an air box that team Lotus used in the Tasman series ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
absmiami Posted September 29, 2020 Author Share Posted September 29, 2020 The air box is not used on the restored car. - and it’s a safe bet that the actual air box was binned at the end of the season - or when the 32B was sold to an Australian privateer at the end of the season. But there are a handful of photos available online - and the design was a pre-cursor of the air boxes used on the Ford DOHC Indy winner 6 months later. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
absmiami Posted September 29, 2020 Author Share Posted September 29, 2020 Before painting I’m adding dozens of bolts to the block and the cyl head. Doing this now so I can limit my handling of these parts once they are painted. Using .020 and .025 bolt heads and nuts from RB motion, Master Club - those are the plastic bolts on the exhaust manifold flanges. These are really very sharp castings. Some scale hardware bolts also used. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
absmiami Posted September 29, 2020 Author Share Posted September 29, 2020 Bout ready to do some painting ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
absmiami Posted October 14, 2020 Author Share Posted October 14, 2020 Valve covers and fuel pump... the valve covers are drilled and prepped for a bunch of bolts ... the fuel pump is made fro evergreen stock. - based on photos of a pump that I took on a different climax engine. - the restored car appears to use a slightly different pump - but it’s hard to know what the arrangement was for the Tasman season so I’m winging it ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
absmiami Posted October 14, 2020 Author Share Posted October 14, 2020 Using my last stock of 0.5 mm bolts. -will there be more ? I’ll try to find out .... also using RB motion hardware and resin 3D printed bolts - these are tiny and with very fine detailed. - I’ll paint them with a mix of floquil colors for a gun metal finish ...And some brass for contrast ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
absmiami Posted October 14, 2020 Author Share Posted October 14, 2020 The paint finish on the block is Alcad semi-matte aluminum. Might be a little too dull - not sure - but I’ll paint the engine accessories with a brighter finish to contrast ... the valve covers are painted with hardware store flat black - again it’s impossible to know what exact shade is correct ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
absmiami Posted October 18, 2020 Author Share Posted October 18, 2020 Using my last stock of 0.5 mm bolts. -will there be more ? I’ll try to find out .... also using RB motion hardware and resin 3D printed bolts - these are tiny and with very fine detailed. - I’ll paint them with a mix of floquil colors for a gun metal finish ...And some brass for contrast ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
absmiami Posted October 18, 2020 Author Share Posted October 18, 2020 RB has some acorn nuts in his catalog [ does anyone under the age of thirty know what a catalog is ?] He probably is too busy filling pandemic orders to have time for custom work at this time - but a number of years ago he made me some custom acorns with a small sleeve. These are correct for the cylinder head nuts on the climax . Thank you mr Bentley ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
absmiami Posted October 18, 2020 Author Share Posted October 18, 2020 The roll bar is braced to the top of the engine - so I’m making the brackets on the cyl head and at the peak of the roll bar for this assembly. Using RB motion components here too - including some of those rod ends that dandy d is putting to great use on his hot rod Porsche ... rb makes these in three or four sizes. I’m using an intermediate size here. - think it .47 ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
absmiami Posted October 18, 2020 Author Share Posted October 18, 2020 And it time to mask and paint the gear box. Using 3M parafilm and Alcad aluminum, polished steel, and magnesium is next ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
absmiami Posted October 19, 2020 Author Share Posted October 19, 2020 Master club bolts on the gearbox cover - .08 size - with some sharpie silver - looks a little too flat. - might finish these with a molotov ink pen ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
absmiami Posted October 19, 2020 Author Share Posted October 19, 2020 And some detailing on the Weber’s .... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
absmiami Posted October 22, 2020 Author Share Posted October 22, 2020 The 4 plug wires are cut from some railroad accessory pick up wire - I like the finish. Real flat and the .015 thickness ... the plug boots are made from .034 brass tube and finished with a black sharpie. And glued into the cyl head at an angle ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
absmiami Posted October 25, 2020 Author Share Posted October 25, 2020 The water return pipe ... the run forward is different on the 32B because the sides of the monocoque are slimmer than the 33 ... so I can’t use the cast part. It’s replaced with a part that I’ll make with styrene tube with a copper insert - so I can bend it around the fuel filling pipe ... the styrene was sold by a model railroad outfit called contrail. These aren’t sold anymore. There is probably something similar but I haven’t found it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
absmiami Posted October 25, 2020 Author Share Posted October 25, 2020 The aluminum wire bending jig is Randy D’s fault ... sold on amazon and/or eBay. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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