Gluing clear windows and chrome accessories to painted surfaces ?

[Goodwrench3]

Hi all:

What are you using to glue clear windshields from the inside of bodies and do you need to scrape the paint first or are you gluing to a painted surface ?

Same question about gluing small chrome trim to a painted body (lights, horns, door handles, mirrors, etc.)  -- what kind of glue are you using ?  And can you glue directly to a painted surface ?

Thanks !

 

[StevenGuthmiller]

I have been having good luck using clear 2 part epoxy for this sort of application.

The thing that I like about it is the ability to apply the glue to one of the surfaces to be adhered and then let the glue set to a pretty highly tacky consistency before joining them.

This helps eliminate the possibility of parts sliding around as you try to fasten them, and helps guard against glue "squeeze out".

 

You can glue directly to the paint, and epoxy will give you a pretty tough bond.

 

 

 

 

Steve

Edited July 14, 2020 by StevenGuthmiller

[Pete J.]

Zap Formula 560 canopy glue.  Been using it for years because unlike a lot of other glues it gets tacky very quickly, so you are not left sitting there holding a part in place while the stuff dries.  It also is not a super adhesive in that if you bump a part off, it is not likely to take off a chunk of paint.  Dries perfectly clear and cleans up with water!

https://www.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?I=PAAR3300

[Bucky]

You may get all kinds of suggestions on this topic.

I use TESTORS clear window glue for the windows, headlights, and taillights in most of my builds. 

I've been using CA glue for attaching handles and mirrors and such. If at all possible, I try to drill and pin things, so they will be easier to place, and harder to knock off.

[Deathgoblin]

Testors clear parts adhesive for glass and non-stressed parts.  CA for parts that take a little more stress, carefully applied with a toothpick. 

[Miatatom]

What Pete said, Formula 560 Canopy Glue.

[#1 model citizen]

I have had the best luck with good ole Elmer's glue. I have used the Testers clear parts adhesive with mixed results.? CA for chrome. Usually glue directly to the chrome though it has often been scraped off to accommodate the fit.

[StevenGuthmiller]

I have used clear parts cement with good luck in the past, and still use it in certain circumstances.

 

As Keith stated, I also try to "pin" everything possible, especially parts glued to the body where they are easily knocked off.

It makes them immensely stronger, and they can often be glued from inside of the body to completely eliminate the possibility of any visible glue.

 

Be careful with CA glues for glass and chrome.

The glue can fog them very easily.

I have had it fog paint as well.

I find myself using very little CA glue anymore.

 

 

 

Steve

[slusher]

I use a glue tip and use Testors orange tube glue. You have to be careful or you will ruin the glass..

[Matt Bacon]

+1 for Formula 560. Not used anything else since I discovered it...

best,

M.

[RSchnell]

Canopy Glue, Humbrol Clearfix (can even be used to make small windows or lenses) are the main ones I use. 

[Slimguy]

Like Steve said...I too have been having really good success with the clear 2 part epoxy, applied just as Steve recommend.

[Spruslayer]

 

I have used this with good results,i let it dry overnite before handling

[Goodwrench3]

Has anyone used Microscale Micro Krystal Klear  ?

 

[Goodwrench3]

15 hours ago, StevenGuthmiller said:

I have been having good luck using clear 2 part epoxy for this sort of application.

The thing that I like about it is the ability to apply the glue to one of the surfaces to be adhered and then let the glue set to a pretty highly tacky consistency before joining them.

This helps eliminate the possibility of parts sliding around as you try to fasten them, and helps guard against glue "squeeze out".

 

You can glue directly to the paint, and epoxy will give you a pretty tough bond.

 

 

 

 

Steve

 

Thanks for that.

I have tried the 2-part 5-minute epoxy as well on some small interior parts (door handle, ash tray, etc.) and it did work well.  It's good to know that scraping the painted surface is not needed -- that can be tricky and prone to a big "oops" and ruining the finish.

 

[jamesG]

On 7/15/2020 at 10:57 AM, Goodwrench3 said:

Has anyone used Microscale Micro Krystal Klear  ?

 

It's been a few years but, yes, I used it. If I remember correctly it seemed a bit thicker and stronger than testors. 

I will not use ca glue on clear parts at all and very seldom on chrome to avoid fogging or crazing.  

Testors glue (tube) and liquid cements like tamiya, testors etc  you need to remove paint from both parts for good bond.

 

Edited July 21, 2020 by jamesG

[Tom Geiger]

On 7/15/2020 at 10:57 AM, Goodwrench3 said:

Has anyone used Microscale Micro Krystal Klear  ?

 

Yes, I used Micro Kristal Kleer for years. Great product. You can just wipe off any that gets on glass with no ill effects.

If you go to Hobby Lobby, this is the brand they sell. Works just as well.

I also use this scrapbook double sided clear tape for installing glass. It comes in different widths, I like this 1/8” size. Bought at Michaels. You can use along with the above two cements too. I will sometimes tape the top edge and then use the glue in other three edges.

[Tom Geiger]

On 7/14/2020 at 9:20 PM, Bucky said:

I've been using CA glue for attaching handles and mirrors and such. If at all possible, I try to drill and pin things, so they will be easier to place, and harder to knock off.

A couple people mentioned pinning so here are some illustrations.. I use straight pins. They are firm, strong and cut easy with a regular wire cutter.  I pin everything I can. Above are two mirrors that have been drilled out and pins inserted. 
 

and here they are test fitted before paint. You should glue on the inside of the body and you won’t have any glue visible at all. The pins fit so tight in this one that I never glued them. Just press fit.

[Chariots of Fire]

I'm with Steve and David.  2 part epoxy but let it get real tacky before trying to set the glass in.  Before doing any of that do a dry fit of the glass to be sure that surfaces are clean and that the glass will touch all around.  No worry about scraping paint off.  The epoxy will bond to the paint surface without a problem.  If you need a chrome or rubber gasket do that before applying the epoxy.

[jamesG]

On 7/14/2020 at 7:30 PM, StevenGuthmiller said:

I have been having good luck using clear 2 part epoxy for this sort of application.

The thing that I like about it is the ability to apply the glue to one of the surfaces to be adhered and then let the glue set to a pretty highly tacky consistency before joining them.

This helps eliminate the possibility of parts sliding around as you try to fasten them, and helps guard against glue "squeeze out".

 

You can glue directly to the paint, and epoxy will give you a pretty tough bond.

 

 

 

 

Steve

Can you be more specific as to the epoxy you are using for this. I seem to recall some that yellowed over time perhaps it was a cheap brand 

[crazyjim]

I use the Krystal Klear for attaching small crome parts and mirrors.  Testors doesn't like to stick to 2 part urethane clear.

[StevenGuthmiller]

12 hours ago, jamesG said:

Can you be more specific as to the epoxy you are using for this. I seem to recall some that yellowed over time perhaps it was a cheap brand 

I use JB Weld "Clear Weld".

 

 

 

 

Steve

[RichCostello]

I tried BSI two part 5 min epoxy, but it sets up so fast that it's hard before I can get anything glued. What's the trick?

[peteski]

5 hours ago, RichCostello said:

I tried BSI two part 5 min epoxy, but it sets up so fast that it's hard before I can get anything glued. What's the trick?

LOL!  Were you mixing it for 5 minutes?  I have been using various 5-minute epoxies for decades and I always have plenty of time to apply it. Sometimes, when I hold the parts being glued, it seems to take so long that my fingers get sore.  There are also 2-minute epoxies out there - maybe that was what you had?  funny, there was another thread recently where someone using 5-minute epoxy had no luck in getting it to harden! 

There is no trick.  I squeeze out the epoxy and hardener onto some flat disposable surface. I like to use cheap wide masking tape (the tan-color variety).  Then I thoroughly mix it for about a minute. I don't actually count out 60 seconds - I just mix it until it looks uniform with no streaks in it (streaks indicate that it hasn't been fully mixed yet).  At that point I still have few minutes to use it. I only mix as much as I need for the moment (only one or few glue joints at the time).  If I have to hold the parts together, it means only one glue joint per mixed batch (as I don't have 4 arms).

 

If yours sets too fast, I suspect that you are mixing it too long, or you are trying to use it for gluing too many parts using a single batch of glue.

 

[RichCostello]

I was using 5 min epoxy(I can read the bottle), and only used a Small amount(size of a thumb tack), and it started to get stringy on the first part, and was hardening by the time I got to the second part. I might have mixed it too long, I'll give it another try.