1967 Chevrolet Impala 4 Door Sedan

[espo]

1 hour ago, doorsovdoon said:

Found something interesting on the door cards in this kit. You can see the seem line where it looks like they've used the mould from the two door to make the four door panels. Hope they didn't butcher the two door moulds to make this! 

I agree on this door panel. I hadn't noticed that until now. The '67 SS has been a pretty good seller for Round 2 so I wouldn't think they would destroy the interior mold. 

[doorsovdoon]

It's possible they made a whole new mould for the two door and repurposed the old one for this.

[doorsovdoon]

Got the primer coats on, black first then this red oxide colour. I'm going with this green I picked up on offer. If it doesn't look right, I'll paint it some other colour over the top of it and say it was repainted at one time which will show through when I do the weathering.  I'll either do a black interior or white.

[doorsovdoon]

hmm, I'm not really digging this colour. Looks more suited for a military vehicle?

[Rob Hall]

Kinda looks like this green? 

[doorsovdoon]

Yeah, a little bit. Looks a lot paler on the real car. A vinyl roof might work, it would take the eye away from all that green maybe. I'll have to have a think on this. If I go with this green I'll do a vinyl roof, if not, I'll paint the whole car Jade Green, a colour I nearly went for earlier.

[doorsovdoon]

Yep, I'm going with Jade green. Looks so much better, almost a shame to scuff it all up for weathering!

[Tom Geiger]

As you wet sand, the lighter green will work right into the weathering!

Per the chalks.. you want to work with dust. Either sand the side of the stick or place stick in a sealable plastic bag and smash it to dust. I’ve done it both ways.

Two ways to use your dust.. dry and wet. I use a combination of both for different effects. Dry, use a brush to spread it across your model. After you have done your wet sanding you may want to spray the dull clear varnish over it all. That will give some texture for the dust to grip.  You can always put more clear over it once done to seal it in too.

To work wet.. spray some of the clear dull varnish into a small cup. Get two brushes you don’t care about.  With one brush, put a bit of the varnish where you want to add to texture...  then use the dry brush to dab in the dust.  You can paint with it or dab it on so it had a texture for rust spots. Experiment with the colors in your earth tone set to see what they actually yield on your model.  

Like I said earlier it’s by eye and a bit like water colors.  Don’t be afraid to play. It will dry darker, if not right you can lighten it up with more varnish or add more chalk until pleased

 

[doorsovdoon]

Thanks, Tom. The lighter green I'm hoping will look like exposed top coat on a 1-1 where the lacquer has peeled over the years.

[doorsovdoon]

Every time I touch this car with masking tape the paint keeps coming off, the whole front wing stripped itself clean. Seeing as this is going to be a weathered car, I painted the wing in grey primer but on removing the masking tape the paint again peeled off the door and windscreen panel. I've never had this trouble with paint not sticking. There is so little bond to the plastic that if I hold it for too long the paint actually comes off from my fingerprints alone. Is it something to do with black plastic that this kit is moulded from? The kit was washed of all mould release before paint. Maybe I need to scuff up the plastic with wire wool, like on a real car! Lol

 

[Deuces ll]

Did you use Duplicolor primer?????..... 

[doorsovdoon]

28 minutes ago, Deuces ll said:

Did you use Duplicolor primer?????..... 

No, the same primer I always use from the local motor factors, Halfords.

EDIT: I used a red primer from Halfords which I've used before with no issues, but I did use a black primer by Motip which I've never used before. Might be that, but I've never had issues with that brand when it comes to paint.

Edited August 3, 2020 by doorsovdoon

[Spottedlaurel]

Oh, that's a shame. That was what put me off masking anything for years and years, something I've only just managed to get beyond.

Might be best to strip it and start again? That's when you'll find that it won't come off......

[doorsovdoon]

Yep, did it again when I wanted to primer the door! I'm just chasing the damage. I'm going to have to strip the paint off this. Easy enough, all I have to do is cover it in masking tape, Lol!

[doorsovdoon]

Paint is off and I've scuffed the body up with a brillo pad, so hopefully the paint will stick this time! The grey primer isn't budging and that's on un-scuffed plastic, so I'm betting it was the black primer that was the issue here.

Edited August 3, 2020 by doorsovdoon
Including additional info

[Deuces ll]

Why didn't they mold the parts in white styrene????.....

I'm just thinking out loud over here....?

[doorsovdoon]

1 minute ago, Deuces ll said:

Why didn't they mold the parts in white styrene????.....

I'm just thinking out loud over here....?

Not sure to be honest. Maybe for beginners to make a quick build? I don't think the plastic was the issue with this, I'd say it was the black primer.

[1972coronet]

May I recommend cleaning-out the panel lines before you re-prime . re-spray .

I use a dental plaque / pique tool (pharmacies in the U.S. sell them ; can't imagine that your locale would be different ) . 

[slusher]

What masking tape are you using? Tamiya is the best. Regular masking tape is to strong. If paint comes off on your fingers maybe the paints not dry?

[doorsovdoon]

Thanks, John, I'll clean out the panel lines before paint. 

[doorsovdoon]

7 hours ago, slusher said:

What masking tape are you using? Tamiya is the best. Regular masking tape is to strong. If paint comes off on your fingers maybe the paints not dry?

Same masking tape I always use, low tac pinstripe tape. I don't cover my models entirely with tape, I use the low tac on the edge of what I'm painting and then I use paper to cover the model using regular tape.

[slusher]

6 hours ago, doorsovdoon said:

Same masking tape I always use, low tac pinstripe tape. I don't cover my models entirely with tape, I use the low tac on the edge of what I'm painting and then I use paper to cover the model using regular tape.

I really hope it works out for you..

[Jantrix]

19 hours ago, doorsovdoon said:

The grey primer isn't budging and that's on un-scuffed plastic, so I'm betting it was the black primer that was the issue here.

That could be. Also, where I would hesitate to debate Tom in matters of weathering, as the body is molded black, adding a black paint layer probably isn't necessary. I've done a few projects like this and my method is similar to Toms, where I use red and grey primer, but I layer them based on which color will contrast better with the top coat, and that one goes on last. Then a very light coat of a color, and then my top color. This could offer the effect that the car was painted more than once in the past, again I use a contrasting color like white. Get a very low tack tape and when it's time to sand, 600 grit wet with very little pressure. 

[doorsovdoon]

4 hours ago, slusher said:

I really hope it works out for you..

Thanks mate. Yeah, it's all good. I've just painted the headliner white again, I always paint the headliner first, so just waiting for that to set so I can mask it off.

[doorsovdoon]

Thanks, Rob. Black plastic go's grey when scuffed up, it can be polished back to black but then looks like shinny black paint, I can see the reasoning for black primer on black plastic. Anyway, I won't be using that black primer again. I'll probably do a lighter weathering, like a lightly sun burned paint job showing areas of red primer, either that, or factory fresh box stock. "Stick to what you know" speaks loudly to me, Lol!