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landman

1966 Shelby

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1 hour ago, CabDriver said:

Of course, some decal setting solution would probably get you pretty close and make those decals snuggle in to the vents and then you can do a black wash over those after you’ve done the clear in the same way

My first thought as well...

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8 hours ago, CabDriver said:

I wonder if the stripes on that box art model were painted rather than decalled?  Would be easier to paint that scoop than decal it for sure. Then, a black wash would give you the dark spots in that vent.

Of course, some decal setting solution would probably get you pretty close and make those decals snuggle in to the vents and then you can do a black wash over those after you’ve done the clear in the same way ??

My decal setting solution hadly gets them to curl around the lip of the trunk. Of course, it could be too old. Then the decals appear unusually stiff and brittle.

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It is with great shame that I present my decal job. Those were the nastiest decals I was given to work with. Well, I have to blame something, don't I?

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Edited by landman

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Then decided to add another coat of the SAME clear to hold it all together.

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According to the interwebs, the 50 Ivy Green 350Hs were built with only side stripes, no LeMans stripes. Sounds like a good excuse to not put them back on.

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1 hour ago, Rodent said:

According to the interwebs, the 50 Ivy Green 350Hs were built with only side stripes, no LeMans stripes. Sounds like a good excuse to not put them back on.

I agree. the one in the first photo must have had then though, at least on the scoop.

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Oh man!

You're having the kind of luck I have building a kit Pat!

I'm sorry to see the bad reaction with the clear coat. What paint brand did you use?

Rob

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Probably added by an owner after Hertz. It seems like "all" 65-66 Shelbys have LeMans stripes now. I like this 65 picture and how many didn't have LeMans stripes or aluminum wheels.

 

1965 Shelby Mustang - Ultimate Guide

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I think I'll do it as a "ghost" GT350, no markings at all. Or, with plain GT stripes, which I think I have.

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Color looked great and I had the same problem with my hood decals. I decided to leave them off and just went with the side stripe. Sorry to see the bad clear reaction, awfully strange to react on the very last coat!

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Did you by chance use automotive urethane clear coat? Most have very specific re-coat timing; either right away, or wait 24 hours minimum. I learned that one the hard way when I rushed a small touch-up I had to do on a full size truck I was painting, and ended up causing myself an even larger problem. Hang in there!

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2 hours ago, Canso65 said:

Oh man!

You're having the kind of luck I have building a kit Pat!

I'm sorry to see the bad reaction with the clear coat. What paint brand did you use?

Rob

 

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I seem to remember that directions for that Duplicolor enamel clear say not to recoat unless it’s within an hour of the previous coat, or MORE THAN a week later...not in between

Did you get it in between that window somewhere?

Edited by CabDriver
Typo

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On 8/11/2020 at 8:16 PM, landman said:

Working on the decals. Not fun at all. How do I achieve that effect on the cowl?

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Maybe Micro Sol and a black wash?

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Oh no! I just scrolled down far enough to see the cracked clear. The exact same thing happened to me on  a Bronco build. I soaked it in Purple Power and repainted just to have my BMF turn into a headache. Definitely sounds like it wasn't cured quite yet or too humid.

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My first issue GT 350H decals would NOT work with any solvents.  I ended up using vinyl stripes on the top.  I think I got the side stripes on.  Good luck working out the cowl.  It's a great kit when finished.  

 

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On 8/6/2020 at 6:53 PM, landman said:

Should I apply the foil and decals before the clear?

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Looking GREAT!!!  I like to clear over all my foil work because i know what happens to self-adhesive things later on....they dry out, and things start falling off. I even clear over the chrome metal transfers in the japanese kits

 

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