Airbrushing: Jumping in with both feet and my wallet.

[Bills72sj]

2 hours ago, NOBLNG said:

Do you like any one of the airbrushes over the others yet?

So far all 3 of them spray nice. The small cup one doesn't hold much paint and takes a steady hand. The larger cup one has a cap but I have learned not to fill it to the top. I have already killed the O-ring for the nozzle (due to solvents) so I have sealed it with beeswax. Have not used it since I did so. It also does not like high solids paint like decanted flat black primer. The siphon gun doesn't mind the high solid paint but requires more air pressure to spray (simple adjustment). Cleaning the jars takes a lot more lacquer thinner as opposed to the other two. So far, I have not actually used them enough to prefer one over the other.

[Pete J.]

34 minutes ago, Bills72sj said:

So far all 3 of them spray nice. The small cup one doesn't hold much paint and takes a steady hand. The larger cup one has a cap but I have learned not to fill it to the top. I have already killed the O-ring for the nozzle (due to solvents) so I have sealed it with beeswax. Have not used it since I did so. It also does not like high solids paint like decanted flat black primer. The siphon gun doesn't mind the high solid paint but requires more air pressure to spray (simple adjustment). Cleaning the jars takes a lot more lacquer thinner as opposed to the other two. So far, I have not actually used them enough to prefer one over the other.

I wouldn't worry about liking one over the other in general.  I am sure you will find that each has its place and what it does better than the others.  I have 4 and each has a job it does best.  No favorites, just the right tool for the job. 

[Bills72sj]

After the drama of my two Chinese airbrushes blowing bubbles in the cup, time to get a real airbrush. I do not do camo or fine lines so I figure a 0.5mm nozzle is best. I simply want to paint body color on cars and semi-trucks. After watching more YouTube videos, I have decided I would prefer gravity feed and dual action. My budget was $200 which gave me a lot of choices. I was really leaning towards an Iwata HP-CS. But after learning that Steve G. uses a Creos PS-290, I checked out some videos on it. I like the trigger, the handle option, the HUGE paint cup and the fan spray option. I bought it off Amazon for $129 plus $26 for the handle. Hopefully I can set up my paint booth next weekend and try it out.

Edited March 27, 2022 by Bills72sj

[Rick L]

The probable cause of bubbles in the cup may be a blockage in the nozzle. That blockage could be caused by leaving the paint in the gun idle too long without running a little thinner through.
  I’m not saying this IS the problem but if it is, your going to have the same problem with your real airbrush.

[Pete J.]

2 hours ago, Rick L said:

The probable cause of bubbles in the cup may be a blockage in the nozzle. That blockage could be caused by leaving the paint in the gun idle too long without running a little thinner through.
  I’m not saying this IS the problem but if it is, your going to have the same problem with your real airbrush.

Very true, but bubbles in the cup is almost always a problem with the needle seal.  Most often a result of solvents acting on the seal.  Some brushes come with solvent proof seals others don't.  Replacing the seal with often solve the issue.  Most brush repair places have solvent proof replacement seals.  

Also the seal will wear out over time.  Many airbrushes have a compression fitting that will squeeze the seal for a tighter fit.  

I also use airbrush lubricant after every cleaning.  Helps the seal last longer and improves the "feel" of the action.  

[Rick L]

If you put your finger over the nozzle and push the button you will cause the air to back flush through the bowl. In the trade I painted with a more advanced DeVilbis suction feed gun. After removing the needle a few times, the packing would get loose and the paint would flutter, not bubble. Tightening the packing nut would relieve that problem. In the hobby I use a Grex and I agree with using airbrush lubricant only. 

[Bills72sj]

9 hours ago, Rick L said:

The probable cause of bubbles in the cup may be a blockage in the nozzle. That blockage could be caused by leaving the paint in the gun idle too long without running a little thinner through.
  I’m not saying this IS the problem but if it is, your going to have the same problem with your real airbrush.

I agree with your assessment. However, I pretty much know it is the O-rings.

7 hours ago, Pete J. said:

Very true, but bubbles in the cup is almost always a problem with the needle seal.  Most often a result of solvents acting on the seal.  Some brushes come with solvent proof seals others don't.  Replacing the seal with often solve the issue.  Most brush repair places have solvent proof replacement seals.  

Also the seal will wear out over time.  Many airbrushes have a compression fitting that will squeeze the seal for a tighter fit.  

I also use airbrush lubricant after every cleaning.  Helps the seal last longer and improves the "feel" of the action.  

You are correct about the seal. I have seen the lubricant mention on some videos. I will need to get some.

[Bills72sj]

Got to lay some white paint today with my new PS-290. I am liking it. Good atomization, good control, automatic ending with air only. The really big cup is a plus too. Clean up takes a bit more lacquer thinner due to larger cup. So far so good.

[TransAmMike]

19 minutes ago, Bills72sj said:

Got to lay some white paint today with my new PS-290. I am liking it. Good atomization, good control, automatic ending with air only. The really big cup is a plus too. Clean up takes a bit more lacquer thinner due to larger cup. So far so good.

I have the PS-275 (#3) tip and love it tho the 290 with the #5 tip would probably be more what I need.  Love the trigger action and ease of cleaning.   Did you put the Iwata handle on it?? Makes it more like a regular paint gun and gives better control IMO.

[Bills72sj]

3 hours ago, TransAmMike said:

I have the PS-275 (#3) tip and love it tho the 290 with the #5 tip would probably be more what I need.  Love the trigger action and ease of cleaning.   Did you put the Iwata handle on it?? Makes it more like a regular paint gun and gives better control IMO.

I did get the Iwata handle. The whole combination has some heft to it. A pleasant surprise that in spite of the trigger and handle, it fits very well in my airbrush holder.

[TransAmMike]

32 minutes ago, Bills72sj said:

I did get the Iwata handle. The whole combination has some heft to it. A pleasant surprise that in spite of the trigger and handle, it fits very well in my airbrush holder.

Good you got the handle, I just think it really compliments it making it easier to hold and control.

[Dpate]

I love this thread so much.  Congrats on moving into airbrushing.  I started the hobby using a iwata eclipse, and now have a total of 4 brushes including the PS.290 which is a beast. I to have quite a few tamiya rattle cans because i didn't know about scalefinishes or MCW at the time. I also have a ton of tamiya LP bottles, and Mr.hobby ( especially there primers), dspiae paints, alclads etc etc.  The tamiya rattle can line up has certain colors you cant get in the LP line up so that's why i will still sometimes get a can and decant it myself.  $8 for little over 40ml of paint is cheaper than $2.50 per 10ml bottle. https://www.ebay.com/itm/233180864265?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649 that's who i order my tamiya paint jars from.  He's the cheapest on ebay and cheapest you'll find them jars anywhere really unless it's changed in other places.  Tamiya jars are amazing fantastic air tight seal.

Also if i may add a recommendation and that would be in the future if you haven't already is to upgrade to a tank compressor like one spraygunner.com sales called "No - Name" amazing compressor and big enough tank for airbrushing. Also better quality thinners like Mr hobby leveling thinner to thin ALL tamiya paints and mr hobby.  

[Pete J.]

17 hours ago, Dpate said:

The tamiya rattle can line up has certain colors you cant get in the LP line up so that's why i will still sometimes get a can and decant it myself.  $8 for little over 40ml of paint is cheaper than $2.50 per 10ml bottle. https://www.ebay.com/itm/233180864265?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649 that's who i order my tamiya paint jars from.  He's the cheapest on ebay and cheapest you'll find them jars anywhere really unless it's changed in other places.  Tamiya jars are amazing fantastic air tight seal.

 

I have been struggling to come up with the actual cost of the LP bottles .  I have heard that the proper thinning ratio is 50% paint, 50% thinner.  If that is the case then that comes out to $1.25 per 10ml.  The rattle cans would be $2 for 10ml.  I would love to stop decanting rattle cans, but I am kind of use to doing that and I have not had occasion to use the LP's yet. 

[RJL]

On 8/23/2020 at 12:32 AM, StevenGuthmiller said:

All valid points I suppose.

It's just a question that starts rolling around in my head whenever I hear people talking abut decanting paint.

 

I do have to point out that you apparently have made a mistake in your quantity calculation.

500 ml is equivalent to a little over 16 fluid ounces.

I'm pretty sure that Tamiya doesn't make 16 ounce spray cans.

 

I also want to address your concern about flammability of lacquers sent in the mail.

I order from Scale Finishes, MCW and Alclad quite frequently and have yet to have a package burst into flames.

I would worry more about breakage or spillage than flammability, and I have yet to have any of those issues in many years of ordering lacquers through the mail.

The vendors of these products are all very conscientious and package their wares extremely well.

 

In my case, as I'm sure is the case with many others, Tamiya products are a mail order experience as well.

In over 30 years of living in two different cities, I have never seen a can of Tamiya paint in either a hobby shop, or any other store, with the exception of the occasional can of primer.

 

Unless I want to use Testors, (which I don't care to) ordering by mail is a must.

 

 

 

 

Steve

 

[RJL]

I buy Tamiya paints at Hobby Hut in Fargo, ND

[Bills72sj]

20 hours ago, Dpate said:

I love this thread so much.  Congrats on moving into airbrushing.  I started the hobby using a iwata eclipse, and now have a total of 4 brushes including the PS.290 which is a beast. I to have quite a few tamiya rattle cans because i didn't know about scalefinishes or MCW at the time. I also have a ton of tamiya LP bottles, and Mr.hobby ( especially there primers), dspiae paints, alclads etc etc.  The tamiya rattle can line up has certain colors you cant get in the LP line up so that's why i will still sometimes get a can and decant it myself.  $8 for little over 40ml of paint is cheaper than $2.50 per 10ml bottle. https://www.ebay.com/itm/233180864265?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649 that's who i order my tamiya paint jars from.  He's the cheapest on ebay and cheapest you'll find them jars anywhere really unless it's changed in other places.  Tamiya jars are amazing fantastic air tight seal.

Also if i may add a recommendation and that would be in the future if you haven't already is to upgrade to a tank compressor like one spraygunner.com sales called "No - Name" amazing compressor and big enough tank for airbrushing. Also better quality thinners like Mr hobby leveling thinner to thin ALL tamiya paints and mr hobby.  

Dusty, I do need to eventually switch up paints. Right now I have two drawers full of rattle can paints. I am giving up on the Duplicolor cans. The paint has adhesion problems over Tamiya primer and is nearly $15 a can. I have recently switched to Mr Hobby primer. I like how smooth it lays down.

Regarding a tanked compressor, I have looked into it a little bit. My existing compressor seems to keep up just fine.  At this point however, I simply do not have the space for one. (I have also run out of space for kits)

[StevenGuthmiller]

2 hours ago, RJL said:

I buy Tamiya paints at Hobby Hut in Fargo, ND

Yes, but even there it has been a pretty recent development.

I don’t recall if they had a few Tamiya paints before or not, but their paint line has changed considerably in the past year or so since Testors hit the skids.

 They now carry a lot of Tamiya and Mr Hobby paints as well as some others, including some MCW enamels.

 

 

 

Steve

[Dpate]

3 hours ago, Bills72sj said:

Dusty, I do need to eventually switch up paints. Right now I have two drawers full of rattle can paints. I am giving up on the Duplicolor cans. The paint has adhesion problems over Tamiya primer and is nearly $15 a can. I have recently switched to Mr Hobby primer. I like how smooth it lays down.

Regarding a tanked compressor, I have looked into it a little bit. My existing compressor seems to keep up just fine.  At this point however, I simply do not have the space for one. (I have also run out of space for kits)

Yes Mr. Hobby primer is amazing.  I have lots of the grey and black and pink.  Another amazing primer even though it's in a can is ammo by migs titan hobby primer.  The black and grey are the best & it's 400ML cans.

[Bainford]

On 4/16/2022 at 4:38 PM, Pete J. said:

I have been struggling to come up with the actual cost of the LP bottles .  I have heard that the proper thinning ratio is 50% paint, 50% thinner.  If that is the case then that comes out to $1.25 per 10ml. 

True, if the bottles had 10 ml of paint in them. Every one I've opened seemed to have a lot of empty space in the bottle, so I measured the quantity in three different bottles. All had slightly under 8 mls of paint in them.

[Pete J.]

1 hour ago, Bainford said:

True, if the bottles had 10 ml of paint in them. Every one I've opened seemed to have a lot of empty space in the bottle, so I measured the quantity in three different bottles. All had slightly under 8 mls of paint in them.

Ok, that bumps it up to $1.56 for 10ml of paint as opposed to $2 for 10ml out of the spray can.  Still cheaper than decanting rattle cans.  To be forthright about rattle cans, I thin the decanted results a little so the net price is probably pretty similar.   So it comes down to decanting rattle cans if you can't find the color you want in LP.

[Dpate]

9 hours ago, Pete J. said:

Ok, that bumps it up to $1.56 for 10ml of paint as opposed to $2 for 10ml out of the spray can.  Still cheaper than decanting rattle cans.  To be forthright about rattle cans, I thin the decanted results a little so the net price is probably pretty similar.   So it comes down to decanting rattle cans if you can't find the color you want in LP.

Out of the tamiya cans i decant i get roughly little over 40ml so you're only losing like 13 cents compared to buying 4 10ml bottles to 1 can.  That might be alot to some folks, but that's nothing to me lol especially considering the type of kits i buy.

[Pete J.]

13 hours ago, Dpate said:

Out of the tamiya cans i decant i get roughly little over 40ml so you're only losing like 13 cents compared to buying 4 10ml bottles to 1 can.  That might be alot to some folks, but that's nothing to me lol especially considering the type of kits i buy.

I agree with most of what you said.  I really don't care that much about the price as it is such a small portion of the total spent on a build.  However, if you read my original post, and not just this one out of context, you only need two 10ml bottles of LP to get 40ml of paint.  I believe LP is suppose to be thinned 50/50

[Dpate]

7 hours ago, Pete J. said:

I agree with most of what you said.  I really don't care that much about the price as it is such a small portion of the total spent on a build.  However, if you read my original post, and not just this one out of context, you only need two 10ml bottles of LP to get 40ml of paint.  I believe LP is suppose to be thinned 50/50

Yeah you can do 1:1 or 1:2 so that's true, and if you thin the decanted paint you'll get even more than 40mL lol.  Stuff is pretty thick decanted compared too model master after degassing.