IanH Posted January 6, 2021 Author Share Posted January 6, 2021 Busy painting the body section in front of the dash, but behind the shroud... As well as primered a few other bits and bobs. Would like to clear this part of the body tomorrow, and put some colour on the other bits and pieces... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steveracer Posted January 8, 2021 Share Posted January 8, 2021 Why did you repaint that part red? Isn't it part of the original main body part? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanH Posted January 9, 2021 Author Share Posted January 9, 2021 17 hours ago, steveracer said: Why did you repaint that part red? Isn't it part of the original main body part? I would like to fit this shroud piece before painting the main body, and I am concerned about being able to paint in under it nicely. There's a good chance that I am over thinking this... ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steveracer Posted January 9, 2021 Share Posted January 9, 2021 Got it. now how long is it going to take to add the rivets? I am interested to see what process you use Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanH Posted January 17, 2021 Author Share Posted January 17, 2021 Haven't had much chance to paint and make progress on the body, but spent some time fiddling with some other pieces, and started to put together the engine... Thanks Tamiya for molding 14 spark plugs for the 12 cylinder engine, as I realised that I was thinking of what I could possibly use the extras for... And then I sliced one to much when taking it off the sprue... OK will use 1 spare to replace that one, and what to do with other one I wonder.... As I cut the next one right in half? OK forget that, now all 12 good ones are used! Just consentrate and don't mess and more up! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tortuga Kustomz Posted January 17, 2021 Share Posted January 17, 2021 lot of work involved my friend, i like it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanH Posted January 19, 2021 Author Share Posted January 19, 2021 While waiting for a chance to paint, been busy with some more tedious tasks of sanding off the seam lines on the exhausts... Numbered the parts to keep them in order... I enjoy puzzles, but don't feel like trying to guess which tube goes where? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnnyK Posted January 20, 2021 Share Posted January 20, 2021 I have built four "big scale" race cars. Assembling the exhaust headers, collectors and exhaust pipes is a major, major, major PITA!!! It's as if you need three hands. I don't understand why Tamiya didn't do a better job on engineering these exhaust systems. I like your system for keeping the exhaust headers organized. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steveracer Posted January 21, 2021 Share Posted January 21, 2021 Ian, on your battery detail, how did you get the yellow caps to appear that they are actually glued on the black battery? Meaning the demarcation line of the paint is perfect on such a small part.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanH Posted January 21, 2021 Author Share Posted January 21, 2021 5 hours ago, steveracer said: Ian, on your battery detail, how did you get the yellow caps to appear that they are actually glued on the black battery? Meaning the demarcation line of the paint is perfect on such a small part.... Thanks Steve, I tried carefully hand painting them, but wasn't happy with it either... In the end I painted the whole part yellow, and then carefully masked off the caps with thin Tamiya masking tape, and then airbrushed the rest of the part in black. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian McLaren Posted January 24, 2021 Share Posted January 24, 2021 Well done, this is going to be a great model, I have a 1/12th MP 4/6 in progress but I have been seduced by the dark side "drag racing" Hope to get back to it soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanH Posted January 24, 2021 Author Share Posted January 24, 2021 Mock up of the exhaust headers on the engine block. Will still need to clean up the joints where they join 3 into 1. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steveracer Posted January 25, 2021 Share Posted January 25, 2021 (edited) On 12/30/2020 at 7:45 AM, IanH said: Post up your restoration project, would be keen to have a look? Ian, I have a story going on on another forum strictly for formula one cars, not sure if you are there or not, but don't think it is prudent to have two going at the same time or hijack your story. Oddly, I am getting to the same point with the engine and headers as you are! Only difference I cannot remove the headers from the engine case, they are really glued in there, so I am working around the issue, kinda like rusty bolts and nuts on the exhaust system so "leave sleeping dogs lie". Think I may just lay a little glue in those collector joints to fill the gaps.... Keep up the good work! Edited January 25, 2021 by steveracer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnnyK Posted January 26, 2021 Share Posted January 26, 2021 This is what I did when I built the exhaust system for my ELF 6 wheeler. I put Bondo glazing (red color) in the holes of the collectors. The Bondo temporarly held the exhaust headers and the collectors together while I adjusted the location of the headers. Once the headers were glued into the engine block I removed the Bondo and glued the headers to the collector. I also put the engine block into a clamp so that it wouldn't wiggle around. It worked great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanH Posted January 26, 2021 Author Share Posted January 26, 2021 2 hours ago, JohnnyK said: This is what I did when I built the exhaust system for my ELF 6 wheeler. I put Bondo glazing (red color) in the holes of the collectors. The Bondo temporarly held the exhaust headers and the collectors together while I adjusted the location of the headers. Once the headers were glued into the engine block I removed the Bondo and glued the headers to the collector. I also put the engine block into a clamp so that it wouldn't wiggle around. It worked great. That's a really good tip, thanks. Your engine looks really great! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Smith Posted January 26, 2021 Share Posted January 26, 2021 Your doing a great job on this kit!!! I built this a few years ago... I will tell you that the fuel injection nipples on the cylinder heads and pump are super brittle, if your mindful you’ll be patient on installing the fuel lines. just trying to help Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanH Posted January 26, 2021 Author Share Posted January 26, 2021 1 hour ago, Chris Smith said: Your doing a great job on this kit!!! I built this a few years ago... I will tell you that the fuel injection nipples on the cylinder heads and pump are super brittle, if your mindful you’ll be patient on installing the fuel lines. just trying to help Chris Thank you Chris, I have studied your build of this kit on the forum over and over again, stolen so many tips and ideas from you. ?. Great build with a fantastic result ? Yes, I already had to glue one nipple back onto the pump just during initial test fitting, so will have to be very gentle. What did you use to tie up your cables? Ignition and fuel, I see most builds have what looks like black tie backs, but I don't have anything like this in my kit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnnyK Posted January 26, 2021 Share Posted January 26, 2021 9 hours ago, IanH said: Thank you Chris, I have studied your build of this kit on the forum over and over again, stolen so many tips and ideas from you. ?. Great build with a fantastic result ? Yes, I already had to glue one nipple back onto the pump just during initial test fitting, so will have to be very gentle. What did you use to tie up your cables? Ignition and fuel, I see most builds have what looks like black tie backs, but I don't have anything like this in my kit. Chris, I have a suggested solution for this question. Is it okay if I share my idea? John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanH Posted January 26, 2021 Author Share Posted January 26, 2021 (edited) 40 minutes ago, JohnnyK said: Chris, I have a suggested solution for this question. Is it okay if I share my idea? John Hi John, You are more than welcome to share please. Regards Ian Edited January 26, 2021 by IanH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Smith Posted January 26, 2021 Share Posted January 26, 2021 56 minutes ago, JohnnyK said: Chris, I have a suggested solution for this question. Is it okay if I share my idea? John Sure! We are all here to help and share? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Smith Posted January 26, 2021 Share Posted January 26, 2021 10 hours ago, IanH said: Thank you Chris, I have studied your build of this kit on the forum over and over again, stolen so many tips and ideas from you. ?. Great build with a fantastic result ? Yes, I already had to glue one nipple back onto the pump just during initial test fitting, so will have to be very gentle. What did you use to tie up your cables? Ignition and fuel, I see most builds have what looks like black tie backs, but I don't have anything like this in my kit. If I remember I used black thread from the wife’s sewing kit? I also found some PE zip ties on line that I have also used. Also I have tried thin wire I got from a craft store ( jewelry section) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnnyK Posted January 26, 2021 Share Posted January 26, 2021 This is what I used on my ELF 6 wheeler I cut the insulation of a mouse cable into thin rings. I used the the rings to organize the ignition cables and the fuel hoses. The rings can be held in place by using a drop of white glue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanH Posted January 26, 2021 Author Share Posted January 26, 2021 2 minutes ago, JohnnyK said: This is what I used on my ELF 6 wheeler I cut the insulation of a mouse cable into thin rings. I used the the rings to organize the ignition cables and the fuel hoses. The rings can be held in place by using a drop of white glue. Thank you, that's quite a neat idea... Will definitely consider that when I get there... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnnyK Posted January 26, 2021 Share Posted January 26, 2021 Here is a nice detail for the wheels (this is a picture of a 1:1 Lotus): Notice the duct tape holding the balance weight to the wheel. First I cut a strip of lead from a wine bottle. Then I glued the strip to the wheel rim and add a piece of Bare Metal Foil to simulate duct tape. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanH Posted February 8, 2021 Author Share Posted February 8, 2021 (edited) Laid a coat of clear over this section just in front of the dash, and then sprayed some flat black on the inside of the shroud and body panels. Need to glue the shroud on, and then will do another coat of flat black to hide the inner join between these two parts. Happy with the outcome, red in front of the dash is nice, and the black on the inner edge of the shroud is a nice contrast. Edited February 8, 2021 by IanH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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