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MPC 1968 Dodge Coronet R/T


StevenGuthmiller

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1 hour ago, Rodent said:

Don't forget to fill in the A/C vents in the dash.

Thanks Steve.

I've already decided that I'm going to go back to the Charger Dash.

No vents in that, and I decided that it will fit better than the Coronet dash in the end.

 

As you're probably aware, the tubs on these old kits tapered inward at the bottom of the tub making them narrower at the bottom and wider at the top.

The new interior configuration will eliminate that, so the mounting tabs on the lower portion of the Coronet dash were going to stick out and be visible under the dash.

It was either return to the Charger dash, or spend a bunch of time filing down and removing portions of those tabs.

It will be easier this way, plus the Charger dash was a correct option for the Coronet anyway.

The modified dash top/pad will still work perfectly with the Charger dash.

 

Today I've been modifying a few more interior parts.

The Coronet door panels were a little bit shorter than the Charger tub, so I added some stock to the front of the kick panels to fill in that gap.

I also dove in to one of my least favorite jobs.

Removing the molded in seat belts on the Coronet bucket seats.

It wouldn't be so bad, but the seat belts cross over several creases in the upholstery pattern and a section of piping on the side of the seat.

Though with some careful filing, sanding and rescribing, it's not too terribly difficult to make them look like they never existed.

 

Now I'm considering drilling out and replacing the seat back upholstery buttons as well.

God, help me!! :rolleyes:

 

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Steve

 

 

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2 hours ago, StevenGuthmiller said:

Thanks Steve.

I've already decided that I'm going to go back to the Charger Dash.

No vents in that, and I decided that it will fit better than the Coronet dash in the end.

 

As you're probably aware, the tubs on these old kits tapered inward at the bottom of the tub making them narrower at the bottom and wider at the top.

The new interior configuration will eliminate that, so the mounting tabs on the lower portion of the Coronet dash were going to stick out and be visible under the dash.

It was either return to the Charger dash, or spend a bunch of time filing down and removing portions of those tabs.

It will be easier this way, plus the Charger dash was a correct option for the Coronet anyway.

The modified dash top/pad will still work perfectly with the Charger dash.

That's probably a good idea.

I am quite familiar with this kit. I built a convertible around 1970 or so, and rebuilt it in 1975-76 or so. 5 or so years ago, it was dismantled and went into the Purple Pond. Stayed on the shelf of doom for a while with the intended 68 RoadRunner donor kit. Had some Modelhaus parts as well. I finally decided that it was never going anywhere, and it was rehomed on eBay a while back.

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3 minutes ago, 1972coronet said:

Missing Link , perhaps ?

I was thinking more along the lines of a forum member who more or less “dabbles” with resin casting, but could do a satisfactory job, enough to offer a few examples to other members and friends without going commercial on the whole thing. I’m not interested at all in making any profit from something like this. My only interest is to help out. These are by no means professionally done masters. More along the lines of a “home brew”. 😁

 

 

 

Steve

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18 minutes ago, StevenGuthmiller said:

I was thinking more along the lines of a forum member who more or less “dabbles” with resin casting, but could do a satisfactory job, enough to offer a few examples to other members and friends without going commercial on the whole thing. I’m not interested at all in making any profit from something like this. My only interest is to help out. These are by no means professionally done masters. More along the lines of a “home brew”. 😁

 

 

 

Steve

Ah ! Got it . I support you 100% on your gracious largesse . 

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11 hours ago, StevenGuthmiller said:

I was thinking more along the lines of a forum member who more or less “dabbles” with resin casting, but could do a satisfactory job, enough to offer a few examples to other members and friends without going commercial on the whole thing. I’m not interested at all in making any profit from something like this. My only interest is to help out. These are by no means professionally done masters. More along the lines of a “home brew”. 😁

 

 

 

Steve

I know exactly what your saying. Too many times I’ve spent time mastering a part that I never copied and wish I had done so ( ie my Dick Landy hemi oil pan with the pass through). With that being said it is not that I didn’t try my hand at casting my own. It’s just that the results weren’t up to any acceptable level in my opinion. I know practice makes perfect but I just don’t have the need to cast often enough. The beautiful job and hard work you have done on the 68 interior to me is a perfect example that deserves to be cast. If I did have the skills I would’ve gladly cast it for you. Hopefully someone on here can help. I’d gladly help chip in anyway I can. Even if a group of us that are interested  chips in to fund the supplies to cast?!   So, did you decide on the color combination of car yet? For me that sometimes is the hardest part of the build lol

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Hi Steven,  not sure how I missed this thread. Just got caught up. Your work sir, is absolutely top shelf, the attention to detail....second to none. Your interiors have inspired me to spend more time on what was usually a bit of an overlooked area of my builds. Thank you for the inspiration and for sharing your tips, tricks and tutorials, they are very helpful. 
I know this is very late, but I am sorry for your loss of your pet. They definitely become part of the family. 
 

Cheers, Steve

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HI Steve, just ran across this thread.  Nice work on the interior components!! Building a vey accurate replica as you are doing is not for the faint of heart.  I am impressed by how well you removed the seat belts and I am glad you rebuilt the door panels.  They are awesome.  Have you considered making the doors functional so you can really show off that beautiful interior work?

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Steve, your interior just keeps getting better with every post! I love that you kept the back seat as two parts like the 1:1!  I have 4 of these '68's..........two of which are just bodies I am restoring; and I figured I would end up just molding the interior parts and possibly the bright work (grille and bumpers) down the line to complete them. If you are still looking to have your interior parts molded I would be willing to work with you. I also have 16+ years in the casting business so you can be rest assured I wouldn't run off with your parts. By the way, do you plan on keeping the door handles and window cranks separate (to be painted and glued on after the door panels are painted); or were you planning on mounting them to the door panels at this time? I offer the door handles and window cranks separately for the custom tuck'n roll interiors I mastered and still offer in resin. I would think we could come up with a decent source for interior door handles and window cranks to be made separate from the door panels and keep with the over all level of detail you've put into this interior so far...............Ed (Drag City Casting).

Edited by krassandbernie
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3 hours ago, krassandbernie said:

Steve, your interior just keeps getting better with every post! I love that you kept the back seat as two parts like the 1:1!  I have 4 of these '68's..........two of which are just bodies I am restoring; and I figured I would end up just molding the interior parts and possibly the bright work (grille and bumpers) down the line to complete them. If you are still looking to have your interior parts molded I would be willing to work with you. I also have 16+ years in the casting business so you can be rest assured I wouldn't run off with your parts. By the way, do you plan on keeping the door handles and window cranks separate (to be painted and glued on after the door panels are painted); or were you planning on mounting them to the door panels at this time? I offer the door handles and window cranks separately for the custom tuck'n roll interiors I mastered and still offer in resin. I would think we could come up with a decent source for interior door handles and window cranks to be made separate from the door panels and keep with the over all level of detail you've put into this interior so far...............Ed (Drag City Casting).

Hi Ed.

Thanks for the interest.

Yes, I'm planning on keeping the arm rests and window cranks as separate parts.

If you really think that it would be worth while to cast these, I would be more than happy to farm them out to you for that purpose.......as long as it doesn't take too long to make the molds.

I need them back to finish the model! :D

 

Let me continue to get these parts all to the level that I think that they need to be and we'll see what we can do.

I'm no resin master, so I'm just wondering if it would be okay to make molds from them with primer on them?

I really want to have them all primed to be certain that they are up to snuff.

 

Just to reiterate, these are not professionally made parts by any stretch!

There will undoubtedly be inconsistencies between parts. (left and right door panels not exactly the same for instance)

They are all pieced together individually, so they will not be exact.

But, they will be engineered to fit the Coronet body well, and will be a fairly good ready to drop in alternative for anyone who's looking for a hard top interior with a little more detail.

 

Talk soon!

 

 

 

Steve

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9 hours ago, krassandbernie said:

Steve, your interior just keeps getting better with every post! I love that you kept the back seat as two parts like the 1:1!  I have 4 of these '68's..........two of which are just bodies I am restoring; and I figured I would end up just molding the interior parts and possibly the bright work (grille and bumpers) down the line to complete them. If you are still looking to have your interior parts molded I would be willing to work with you. I also have 16+ years in the casting business so you can be rest assured I wouldn't run off with your parts. By the way, do you plan on keeping the door handles and window cranks separate (to be painted and glued on after the door panels are painted); or were you planning on mounting them to the door panels at this time? I offer the door handles and window cranks separately for the custom tuck'n roll interiors I mastered and still offer in resin. I would think we could come up with a decent source for interior door handles and window cranks to be made separate from the door panels and keep with the over all level of detail you've put into this interior so far...............Ed (Drag City Casting).

 

6 hours ago, StevenGuthmiller said:

Hi Ed.

Thanks for the interest.

Yes, I'm planning on keeping the arm rests and window cranks as separate parts.

If you really think that it would be worth while to cast these, I would be more than happy to farm them out to you for that purpose.......as long as it doesn't take too long to make the molds.

I need them back to finish the model! :D

 

Let me continue to get these parts all to the level that I think that they need to be and we'll see what we can do.

I'm no resin master, so I'm just wondering if it would be okay to make molds from them with primer on them?

I really want to have them all primed to be certain that they are up to snuff.

 

Just to reiterate, these are not professionally made parts by any stretch!

There will undoubtedly be inconsistencies between parts. (left and right door panels not exactly the same for instance)

They are all pieced together individually, so they will not be exact.

But, they will be engineered to fit the Coronet body well, and will be a fairly good ready to drop in alternative for anyone who's looking for a hard top interior with a little more detail.

 

Talk soon!

 

 

 

Steve

Guys..... this would be great ! Ed, I’ve purchased quite a few pieces from you and each one was absolutely beautiful with high quality. On top of it your customer service was outstanding as well. Steve, I absolutely love watching your builds and your attention to detail, skill and gorgeous finished product really drives me to make each model better than the last. If you two guys collaborate I only see great things ! Put me down for 2 sets lol. 

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14 hours ago, StevenGuthmiller said:

Hi Ed.

Thanks for the interest.

Yes, I'm planning on keeping the arm rests and window cranks as separate parts.

If you really think that it would be worth while to cast these, I would be more than happy to farm them out to you for that purpose.......as long as it doesn't take too long to make the molds.

I need them back to finish the model! :D

 

Let me continue to get these parts all to the level that I think that they need to be and we'll see what we can do.

I'm no resin master, so I'm just wondering if it would be okay to make molds from them with primer on them?

I really want to have them all primed to be certain that they are up to snuff.

 

Just to reiterate, these are not professionally made parts by any stretch!

There will undoubtedly be inconsistencies between parts. (left and right door panels not exactly the same for instance)

They are all pieced together individually, so they will not be exact.

But, they will be engineered to fit the Coronet body well, and will be a fairly good ready to drop in alternative for anyone who's looking for a hard top interior with a little more detail.

 

Talk soon!

 

Steve

 

gents, if this happens put me down for 2 complete interiors. I have 2 cars

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Well fellas, if it happens, you'll be first on the list! ;)

 

In the meantime, the seats should be about wrapped up.

I will still need to make some seat tracks for mounting, but other than that, the interior should be fast approaching the finish line.

I'll get everything cleaned up and primed and we'll see what we've got.

 

Later!

 

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Steve

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Sounds good Steve! I have no problem with the things that you mentioned being a concern; and I would do my best to get everything taken care of in a timely manner. The only thing to keep in mind is that most guys who get a resin copy are then going to be inclined to put a coat of primer on it before they paint it.............so there will essentially be twice the number of primer coats as what would normally be on the parts had they been the originals........make sense? Basically, the least amount of primer the better so as little detail gets lost by the time the last coat of paint is applied (to the castings). 

Also, the best way for you and I to communicate further on this would be through e-mail. It will save your thread from getting cluttered up; and it will save me time having to log into the forum just to reply to a private message repeatedly. And by all means, feel free to ask any questions you might have. There are a few little things worth discussing off the board as far as making sure the parts are mold worthy (nothing major). I would suggest affixing the arm rests to the door panels; but obviously leave the door handles and window cranks off to be molded separately.

Thanks,

Ed (lowcab36@epix.net)

 

Edited by krassandbernie
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