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Chariots of Fire

Custom Pierce Enforcer 1750 pumper

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Got a new build on the workbench.  This time it's a new rig with plenty of opportunity for scratch building.  The Trumpeter kit will have some widgets that I can use and the frame and tires will come in handy.

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I started out with the grill because it is the most intricate and needs to be smooth and crisp to stand out.  I have used Renshape for fenders and such but not for something as delicate as this.004.JPG.05a406307618386096291e1345674d33.JPG

After drawing out the overall shape on the Renshape I used various cutters in my drill/mill to cut out the inner portions and to smooth up the surface.  It has two different levels so using a flat cutter for that made the job easy.  This is what it looks like as it came out of the mill and the excess stock was sawn away.

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Next was to thin out the back.  I first used the disc sander to get it close and then did the rest with sanding sticks.  I continued until the backing got paper thin.

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Thinning the grill out made it easy to take a sharp Xacto knife and run around the openings to eliminate the paper thin membrane.  Now its necessary to really work on the outside shape and thin the back even more.

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Once the thinning is done and is ready for finish work, this photoetch mesh pattern will be used to back the grill up.  It's not exactly like the real thing but it will be close enough.

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Great start and excellent step by step instructions on how to scratch build. Where are you getting your dimensions for you to build your parts?

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In this case I have a copy of the builder's diagrams that give the overall dimensions.  They are drawn to a scale of 1:24 if you had a full size plan.  But scanned in the size obviously changes.  So I copy the plan into a CAD program and draw a line in 1/25 scale that represents the wheelbase (as an example dimension.  Others could be used) and then resize the drawing so that the picture wheel base matches the line wheelbase.  Everything else follows suit.  If I can I will get actual dimensions and eliminate some of the guesswork.  

Once the drawings are to 1/25 scale size I can print them out and use them for patterns.  You can do that with photos as well.  Scan them in, copy to CAD and then size appropriately.  The limiting factor, however, is that in a photo the only thing in proper shape is what is directly in front of you.  The camera lens does not know to compensate for that so you have to be careful what you are taking dimensions from.

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Yes, nice work indeed. A great start on what will surely be a great model. What a fine project.

I wish they had a better variety of modern fire apparatus kits, but as they say, what they don’t make, we must make ourselves.

 

Edited by vincen47

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Wow, what a great job you did😮😮, great precision in making the radiator air intake, as you know I'm working on a fire truck too, but nothing comparable to this !!🏆🏆

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5 hours ago, Aerodyne03 said:

Wow, what a great job you did😮😮, great precision in making the radiator air intake, as you know I'm working on a fire truck too, but nothing comparable to this !!🏆🏆

Now the trick is to get it chromed up.  Sanding out the imperfections is absolutely necessary.  Right now the test piece is gloss black and I can see some places that either need filling or some additional sanding.  Then another coat of gloss black and some Alclad.  The Molotow pens are nice but in this case I want to air brush it for a nice finish.  I'll try the larger Molotow pen as well for contrast and see which is better.

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Yes, Charley,  

We're going to grille you on the details!  

😎

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On 9/19/2020 at 3:19 AM, Chariots of Fire said:

Now the trick is to get it chromed up.  Sanding out the imperfections is absolutely necessary.  Right now the test piece is gloss black and I can see some places that either need filling or some additional sanding.  Then another coat of gloss black and some Alclad.  The Molotow pens are nice but in this case I want to air brush it for a nice finish.  I'll try the larger Molotow pen as well for contrast and see which is better.

I am sure it will get a great result and when it is finished it will be a model of great impact!!🙂💪💪

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I'm still working on the grill and trying to get it to the point where it will take some Molotow Chrome or Alclad.  Every little flaw shows up and so it has to be nearly perfect.  In the meantime work on the cab has begun.  Cab side was laid out on 0.030" sheet stock and cut to shape.  Window and door openings have been cut and the door lines have been scribed.  This one will not have opening doors but the inside will still eventually be detailed.  The front top of the cab still has to be shaped but the basics are now complete.  I found some PVC pipe at a local hardware store that was about right for the corners of the cab.  A small section will have to be put in each upper corner.

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That cab looks pretty darned awesome, to me.... Excellent work... The curved corners are what have baffled me for years.... Could never figure it out...

That looks really good...

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On 9/19/2020 at 7:48 PM, Danno said:

Yes, Charley,  

We're going to grille you on the details!  

😎

Hey, Dan!  I just put the grill away for the winter!  Getting cooler here in the northeast!  Even the dog has his backside toward the heater this morning!

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Hi, my man!

Cool?  What's that? We've finally dropped below 110 degrees for the first time all summer. Hottest summer on record. But, I digress.

I'm delighted with your Pierce project!  I spent a lot of time with a Dash.   I'm following.

Hope you've been well, my friend. 

Dan 

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1 minute ago, Danno said:

Hi, my man!

Cool?  What's that? We've finally dropped below 110 degrees for the first time all summer. Hottest summer on record. But, I digress.

I'm delighted with your Pierce project!  I spent a lot of time with a Dash.   I'm following.

Hope you've been well, my friend. 

Dan 

Hangin' in as they say.  Covid sure has put a damper on things from church attendance to regular shopping!  Getting back to the old normal is a must!!😆

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Another work of art! I have relatives that live near the Pierce factory in Wisconsin, whenever we visit them we can see the fire truck factory from the highway, some impressive machines in that lot. Great details and will be watching this one come to life.

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Really nice job with the cab !! 👏👏👏It will be a great model !! 🏆🏆

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Thanks, Guys.  But there is already a "misteak"!  The radius of the curve in the front is all wrong and pulls the front too close to the sides.  I did some spot checking with the drawings and it stood out like sore thumb!  So the front has to come off and get re-built.

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For me it is already very beautiful like this💪💪, but I understand that having to follow the drawings some changes are actually necessary ...

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Beautiful work, Charlie, and a great tutorial as well. I've never tried Alclad, but I have airbrushed Molotow, and am very pleased with it. Carry on!

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Here's a quick update.  It took me a while to adjust the front of the cab.  The corner radii were just too small and needed to increase a lot.  So I cut things off and using a larger piece of PVC pipe made new corners.  Much closer to the drawings.  This allowed me to finish the top of the cab and then concentrate on the windshield.

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I can't tell you how many times I tried vacu-forming the windshield but to no avail; mostly because the windshield is so big.  I could not fit the buck squarely in the machine.  As a result the corners did not get pulled down enough.  So I opted to another method using a slightly thicker clear stock.  I heated a piece of aluminum rod to where I could bend the clear stock around it without distortion or crazing.  It took a few tries but it finally worked.  The trick was to get the curves to start in the right place and meet at the sides of the cab.  In the photo above the "glass" is in place and there is a trim ring around it set loosely as it will be in a final fit.  The trim ring is solder wire that bends easily and without strain on the cab or the clear.  Both will be secured after the cab is painted.  

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The windshield will be set with two part epoxy.  After that the trim will be added.  When the epoxy is fully set it will stiffen up the cab so that the trim can be tucked in tightly.  Dabs of CA here and there will keep in place.  I think the final setting will be with some clear lacquer so that the windshield will not be marred.  That's it for now.  The next part is to strengthen the inside of the cab, work on an interior tub (which will probably come from the Trumpeter ALF kit) and secure the way the window glass will be set.

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