glockexe Posted September 25, 2020 Share Posted September 25, 2020 Have a few noob questions, gonna try a 57 Chevy, plastic, pro sportsman, on the chrome parts do you need to scrape off the chrome before gluing, on paints is there a brand that is better than others, do i need to prime before painting, is there a best glue, and any other tips for me being an old guy, i started trying to build a wooden model ship but got discouraged when it was a lot harder than i thought, so, i thought i’d back off and start with something i perceive to be somewhat easier to get back in the swing of things. I’m not saying that plastic models are easy, i’m sure they are a challenge to assemble properly, any way thanks for your help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NOBLNG Posted September 25, 2020 Share Posted September 25, 2020 Welcome. Yes, yes, yes, yes, and be patient! Someone will be along shortly to give you a better answer.? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NOBLNG Posted September 25, 2020 Share Posted September 25, 2020 Sorry?. Yes, the chrome has to be scraped of for the glue to take hold. I like Tamiya paints. Laquers are more durable and dry quicker but the fumes are nasty! Priming is definitely required in my mind, especially on bodies. For glue, I mostly use Tamiya extra thin quick set for all close fitting joints. For slightly looser joints, good old Testors tube glue, but it dries real slow. Epoxy is another good choice for looser joints or joining dissimilar materials. A lot of guys like super glue, but I rarely use it. For starters, don’t try to achieve perfection, it will only discourage you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glockexe Posted September 25, 2020 Author Share Posted September 25, 2020 Thanks NOBLNG Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jamesG Posted September 25, 2020 Share Posted September 25, 2020 Yes remove the chrome. Wash parts with dish soap before priming. I like dupli-color primer from the auto parts store. If not using an airbrush, testors spray can be used but try it on a test piece ( plastic spoons work great) first as they spray heavy coats. Check the thread on glues on this forum, lots of great info. CA glue works great for most things but you must be careful or it can "fog" clear parts. Take your time with your builds there is no rush. Don't be afraid to show us your work even if you think it's bad or mess something up there are lots of great folks here more than happy to help you figure things out. Enjoy yourself and have fun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StevenGuthmiller Posted September 25, 2020 Share Posted September 25, 2020 Geezer? Which Geezer? We're pretty much all geezers here! I can tell you right out of the gate that in all likelihood, every person that answers your questions in this thread is going to give you different answers. It's inevitable. Every one of us has developed his own techniques over decades of building. In my case, as well as many others, that can be approaching a half of a century of trial and error, and sampling nearly every product and material available for our hobby. This is good because there is a wealth of knowledge on this board.........but bad because it's going to get very confusing because of all of the conflicting answers, no doubt. I could offer you my thoughts on your inquiries, but right out of the chute some of them will probably contradict what's already been offered, so I think I'll just leave you with the cautionary remarks I've already stated. Don't take anything as gospel. There are a million ways to accomplish a singular task. If anyone tells you that they have the "best" way, or "best" material, they're blowing smoke up your backside. It might be the best for them, but you have a multitude of options to consider. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Geiger Posted September 25, 2020 Share Posted September 25, 2020 Yes you should scrape or sand the chrome from the mating surface prior to glueing. Depending on how deep you wish to dive, and local availability, whether you have a real local hobby shop or a Hobby Lobby to buy paints and supplies. Most of us clean up our bodies and parts of molding issues like mold lines and ejector pin marks, which will be round circles either innies or outies. Finer sandpaper like 400-600 grits can be used here. We do prime to look for any issues we’d like to clear up prior to painting. Primer will reveal things you just don’t see in bare plastic! I like Duplicolor auto paint in spray cans. Their primers dry quick and thin. Their paints are hot and will wrinkle bare kit plastic but their primer will protect from that. If you have access to a local shop with Tamiya brand paints, I’ve also gotten excellent results. Glue.. The CA glues.. I like the thicker ones. Hope this helps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snake45 Posted September 25, 2020 Share Posted September 25, 2020 In my experience, scraping chrome is only necessary if you're looking for a strong, permanent bond. I've successfully attached chrome parts with both cyanos ("superglue") and white glue (Elmer's/Tacky Glue) for years, if not decades. Only think I can think of in Model Car World I'd ever need such a permanent bond on chrome parts would be chrome-plated engine block halves. And in that case, I'd either be stripping the chrome off the engine and/or flat-filing the mating surfaces for a perfect joint, which would of course remove the chrome. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StevenGuthmiller Posted September 25, 2020 Share Posted September 25, 2020 7 minutes ago, Snake45 said: In my experience, scraping chrome is only necessary if you're looking for a strong, permanent bond. I've successfully attached chrome parts with both cyanos ("superglue") and white glue (Elmer's/Tacky Glue) for years, if not decades. Only think I can think of in Model Car World I'd ever need such a permanent bond on chrome parts would be chrome-plated engine block halves. And in that case, I'd either be stripping the chrome off the engine and/or flat-filing the mating surfaces for a perfect joint, which would of course remove the chrome. I haven't stripped chrome or paint from a part for gluing in over 30 years. But then again I don't use the old tube model cement either. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glockexe Posted September 25, 2020 Author Share Posted September 25, 2020 Thank you gentlemen, i’ll be going to hobby shops tomorrow, i’m sure when i start i’ll have more questions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichCostello Posted September 25, 2020 Share Posted September 25, 2020 I won't try to answer your questions because, like Steve said you will get a hundred different answers to the same thing. I will offer a suggestion though. If this is going to be your first attempt at a plastic kit, I would start with something other than the 57 Chevy Pro Sportsman kit. It is not an easy "beginner" kit, but there are many kits that are simpler to build and will be less likely to discourage a new builder, and will still produce a nice model. I've been building for years, and I'm still working my way up to Revell's Pro Sportsman kits. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slusher Posted September 25, 2020 Share Posted September 25, 2020 I brush a little Super Clean on just the chrome I need to glue and the Super Clean will remove that spot or use super glue and don’t scrap chrome.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peteski Posted September 27, 2020 Share Posted September 27, 2020 Problem with the can of propellant that comes in those airbrush kits is that you can't control pressure, and when spraying the can gets cold (due to the liquid inside changing to gas) so the pressure drops. A pressure-controllable steady source of compressed gas (air/CO2/nitrogen or whatever someone uses) is important for quality airbrushing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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