Kit Karson Posted September 16, 2021 Share Posted September 16, 2021 We have the toys ready for the next show... The Mini-Bike is ready to paint! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dennis Lacy Posted September 16, 2021 Author Share Posted September 16, 2021 @Kit Karson This project of yours has turned into quite the epic! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kit Karson Posted September 17, 2021 Share Posted September 17, 2021 14 hours ago, Dennis Lacy said: @Kit Karson This project of yours has turned into quite the epic! Something old; something new; something borrowed & something blue! -KK Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobthehobbyguy Posted September 17, 2021 Share Posted September 17, 2021 Impressive. The bike, wagon, and rc cars are very cool additions to this project. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kit Karson Posted September 17, 2021 Share Posted September 17, 2021 Had to pull the parts for the front end... Using the shorter split wishbones from the '30 Roadster Gotta trim off the rear mount Attached the hangers to the frame Decided to use the shocks & shock mounts from the any of the '32 Ford kits Notched the bottom of the frame to accommodate the shock mounts... these will be painted to match the frame and the shock smoothed painted. -KK Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tim boyd Posted September 18, 2021 Share Posted September 18, 2021 6 hours ago, Kit Karson said: Had to pull the parts for the front end... Gotta trim off the rear mount Attached the hangers to the frame . -KK Kit....mega kudos to you for showing the team that for real authenticity, those radius rod frame mounts that are molded together with the radius rods need to be separated and attached to the frame (and thus, wear frame color rather than the plating). This is an "error state" that I still see on many otherwise first-rate hot rod model projects. Oh....and the trailer and bed material is too cool! TIM 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bill-e-boy Posted September 18, 2021 Share Posted September 18, 2021 Kit - fabulous use for the extras and your work is top notch Alan - good progress too. Have not seen the Meng nuts and bolts but will search for them as they look like what we need when we deal to kits like we do I have been a little side tracked with getting my spray booth up and working and building a new office - I work from home and was using a port-a-com office but I sold that Anyway progress thus far: Filing the air cleaner to shape. I used a piece of round bar to act as a guide when shaping the ends A couple shots of the motor with air cleaner fitted with a scratch built filter element and a view of the finned oil pan The chassis is up on wheels for mock ups. I have not yet fully decided on the wheels so they have not been glued yet Which leads to a quick mock up Not happy with the too high stance of the rear so will work on that. I have started on the fire wall recess and some of the interior parts as well 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alan barton Posted September 19, 2021 Share Posted September 19, 2021 (edited) Looking the goods, Bill! That little Windsor has come up sweet! Our two frames will look remarkably similar even though we started with two different units. Our rear extensions could be brothers of a different mother! I hope mine looks as good when it is done. Cheers Alan Edited September 19, 2021 by alan barton Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kit Karson Posted September 20, 2021 Share Posted September 20, 2021 On 9/17/2021 at 8:07 PM, tim boyd said: Kit....mega kudos to you for showing the team that for real authenticity, those radius rod frame mounts that are molded together with the radius rods need to be separated and attached to the frame (and thus, wear frame color rather than the plating). This is an "error state" that I still see on many otherwise first-rate hot rod model projects. Oh....and the trailer and bed material is too cool! TIM Tim, my biggest pet peeve is exactly that... we understand some of the short cuts the model manufactures take when they create the injection molds for some of the hot rod model kits, but it's up to we model builders to take some parts and modify them to the point of approaching the "real authenticity" of the parts and how they are built/made and/or included in our build-up rods & kustoms. Back when I first came across @Dennis Lacy(ADL) and his hot rod creations... I was impressed with his realism and his presentation and how the end results mimicked 1:1 hot rods of both earlier eras of the street rodding and current builds today. Only to find out, ADL grew up in the "SoCal" hot rodding community along side of his Father and the many other California rod builders. Then working along side of his Dad converting mechanical brake systems to hydraulic brake systems on thirties and forties era Fords. Having a real world upbringing in the southern California hot rodding community taught him the basics about construction and execution. ADL even went on to build his own '26/'27 Ford roadster. An old Instagram photo of the current owner from down under... His ability to take an average model and build it into a real-life representation of a car that either was or could be built as a 1:1 street rod amazed me and soon fostered a longtime friendship. When @Dennis Lacy& @Rocking Rodney Rattold me about the "Tribute" build, I cleared my bench and joined in immediately! What a honor and when told it was inline with one of my all time mentors in the street rodding world, I knew it was a once in a lifetime opportunity. There are so many good model car & truck builders that haven't had the real world experiences that a very few of us have had... being able to share some of those little tips & tricks is what this forum and your articles from long ago find to still be very relevant, today! -KK Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kit Karson Posted September 20, 2021 Share Posted September 20, 2021 As for my '29 PU, fitting the '29 Roadster steering column and the Model A Woodie dash into the PU cab required a bit of sanding the column down to fit through the loop: a little trimming on the outer ends of the dash and it will be a perfect fit! -KK Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tim boyd Posted September 21, 2021 Share Posted September 21, 2021 11 hours ago, Kit Karson said: Tim, my biggest pet peeve is exactly that... we understand some of the short cuts the model manufactures take when they create the injection molds for some of the hot rod model kits, but it's up to we model builders to take some parts and modify them to the point of approaching the "real authenticity" of the parts and how they are built/made and/or included in our build-up rods & kustoms. Back when I first came across @Dennis Lacy(ADL) and his hot rod creations... I was impressed with his realism and his presentation and how the end results mimicked 1:1 hot rods of both earlier eras of the street rodding and current builds today. Only to find out, ADL grew up in the "SoCal" hot rodding community along side of his Father and the many other California rod builders. Then working along side of his Dad converting mechanical brake systems to hydraulic brake systems on thirties and forties era Fords. Having a real world upbringing in the southern California hot rodding community taught him the basics about construction and execution. ADL even went on to build his own '26/'27 Ford roadster. An old Instagram photo of the current owner from down under... His ability to take an average model and build it into a real-life representation of a car that either was or could be built as a 1:1 street rod amazed me and soon fostered a longtime friendship. When @Dennis Lacy& @Rocking Rodney Rattold me about the "Tribute" build, I cleared my bench and joined in immediately! What a honor and when told it was inline with one of my all time mentors in the street rodding world, I knew it was a once in a lifetime opportunity. There are so many good model car & truck builders that haven't had the real world experiences that a very few of us have had... being able to share some of those little tips & tricks is what this forum and your articles from long ago find to still be very relevant, today! -KK Kit - Yep, I could tell from Dennis' model projects that he knew his subject very well. Even so, I was surprised, and proud to see, Dennis listed in a Rod and Custom mag (from the 1990's or 2000's) as one of the major domo/organizers of one of the SoCal Reliability Runs some years back. And later on, to see his 1/1 builds including that one you pictured above. TIM 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kit Karson Posted September 21, 2021 Share Posted September 21, 2021 9 hours ago, tim boyd said: Kit - Yep, I could tell from Dennis' model projects that he knew his subject very well. Even so, I was surprised, and proud to see, Dennis listed in a Rod and Custom mag (from the 1990's or 2000's) as one of the major domo/organizers of one of the SoCal Reliability Runs some years back. And later on, to see his 1/1 builds including that one you pictured above. TIM Two things come to mind: Build your model as if it were a real 1:1 vehicle - street legal & truly made in scale to the degree that if it were going to be a used to build the real thing. Do your homework... if you're unsure how something goes together, the information is out there. Or, ask someone that has been down that road before. Second: A long time ago, Randy Durr commented on one of his models saying, "Treat every part as if it's a model unto itself!" Each rim is a model in itself... every tire, every single part is treated as a model of that part. Then, when it comes to assembling all of those individual model parts, the bigger model will come together in a more complete and concise manner. Resolve fitment issues before final assembly (try mocking it up using white glue... when satisfied, submerge in warm water and clean all the parts with a child's soft toothbrush.) -KK Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kit Karson Posted September 21, 2021 Share Posted September 21, 2021 (edited) Working on getting loose ends tied up... decided to go with the '29 Roadster crossmember (part# 141) A little CA Klamp it together While it's drying, drilled the hole in the tranny mounting pad... A little filling & sanding to smooth out the joints... -KK Edited September 21, 2021 by Kit Karson Text correction... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kit Karson Posted September 21, 2021 Share Posted September 21, 2021 At the end of this update, I will have a piece of news to share... something you can quote me on, OK? Pulled the '29 Roadster Steering Arm #78 out of the box Wasn't really happy with the way the rear inner rim on the trailer wheels set... was a little deep.. and needed the outer rim extended. Decided to narrow the inner wheel rim from the original roadster pu version of the Revell kit Part #2 Compare the two before & after Side by side Sanded and slimmed down to fit Some time ago, I was cautioned about finishing the doors to swing or remain closed... Decided to go with painting the hinges the same as the body btw haven't really found a reference to the hinges Part #R55L anywhere in the instructions, have you? Y'all know what this is? A Yard Sale, right @Rocking Rodney Rat? Now for the latest braking news: @Dennis Lacy this 1929 Ford Pickup 80's Contemporary Street Rod - A Tim Boyd Tribute is headed to the paint shop! -KK Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alan barton Posted September 22, 2021 Share Posted September 22, 2021 On 9/22/2021 at 4:28 AM, Kit Karson said: At the end of this update, I will have a piece of news to share... something you can quote me on, OK? Pulled the '29 Roadster Steering Arm #78 out of the box Wasn't really happy with the way the rear inner rim on the trailer wheels set... was a little deep.. and needed the outer rim extended. Decided to narrow the inner wheel rim from the original roadster pu version of the Revell kit Part #2 Compare the two before & after Side by side Sanded and slimmed down to fit Some time ago, I was cautioned about finishing the doors to swing or remain closed... Decided to go with painting the hinges the same as the body btw haven't really found a reference to the hinges Part #R55L anywhere in the instructions, have you? Y'all know what this is? A Yard Sale, right @Rocking Rodney Rat? Now for the latest braking news: @Dennis Lacy this 1929 Ford Pickup 80's Contemporary Street Rod - A Tim Boyd Tribute is headed to the paint shop! -KK Kit, looking very good, sir! I have a question. I am at about the same stage as you are, excepting that I already have some primer on as I have a had a bit of bodywork to do. You mentioned painting the door hinges body colour, which I agree with totally, but I see you haven't glued them to the body at this stage, in order to keep the doors separate. How do you intend to attach the hinges ( and doors) without getting glue where it shouldn't be, on paint and on hinge pins? I have been pondering this for weeks now. The hinges need a good solid weld of glue, and I was intending to use Revell Professional with the needle, but I can see melted paint and /or glued up pins in the process. Any tips on this one? The best I have thought of so far is to glue in place, say, the top hinges prior to paint so that I only have issues with the bottom hinges, which are easier to get at. One of the most perplexing parts of modelling, in my mind at least, is that you can do all this clever fabrication and then totally undo your efforts in the final minutes of assembly!!!! Cheers Alan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kit Karson Posted September 23, 2021 Share Posted September 23, 2021 15 hours ago, alan barton said: Kit, looking very good, sir! I have a question. I am at about the same stage as you are, excepting that I already have some primer on as I have a had a bit of bodywork to do. You mentioned painting the door hinges body colour, which I agree with totally, but I see you haven't glued them to the body at this stage, in order to keep the doors separate. How do you intend to attach the hinges ( and doors) without getting glue where it shouldn't be, on paint and on hinge pins? I have been pondering this for weeks now. The hinges need a good solid weld of glue, and I was intending to use Revell Professional with the needle, but I can see melted paint and /or glued up pins in the process. Any tips on this one? The best I have thought of so far is to glue in place, say, the top hinges prior to paint so that I only have issues with the bottom hinges, which are easier to get at. One of the most perplexing parts of modelling, in my mind at least, is that you can do all this clever fabrication and then totally undo your efforts in the final minutes of assembly!!!! Cheers Alan WOW! Great minds think a like! I'm still trying to decide if the doors will be operable or permanently secured... to that end, if I decide to glue them shut I will remove the pins and fill the holes prior to gluing the hinges to the cab door frame and painting; if I decide to allow the doors to swing I'll follow the TIP below. Here's the TIP for all REVELL pin-type hinges: Prior to painting: fun tack/silly putty applied in the "hole" & to the "pin" Prior to gluing: petroleum jelly applied to the "hole" & "pin" btw Set the bottom first with the door closed applying a dab of petroleum jelly applied to the inside of the door edge facing the hinge being glued. Same for the top hinge after the bottom hinge has setup either before or after painting, your choice. Instead of using the Revell Professional with the needle, use a drop of clear epoxy. It sets up stronger and allows time to align the moving parts before setting up. Worked on the '29 PU V-12 Midnight Auto Salvage Shop Truck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kit Karson Posted September 23, 2021 Share Posted September 23, 2021 Remember the Tranny Cross Member Alignment Posts? Holes were drilled to accommodate the Cross Member Alignment Posts Needed to klean up the Radiator parts and the Grille shell looking back at an early shot of the '29 PU Yard Sale... I had set aside a pair of driveshafts thinking that a kustom length was going to be needed... They both came from the Revell '32 Three Window Coupe Driveshaft Part #37 Mocked up the tranny and rear end... Measured for the kustom length... and found it to be almost the same length as the Deuce Driveshaft Part #37 Mocked up the tranny, driveshaft and rear end... It'll all snug up together once the rear end is attached to the frame! -KK Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Payne Posted September 24, 2021 Share Posted September 24, 2021 Lots of great info in this thread- almost hate to see it end- maybe start another? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kit Karson Posted September 25, 2021 Share Posted September 25, 2021 (edited) 19 hours ago, Paul Payne said: Lots of great info in this thread- almost hate to see it end- maybe start another? Paul, if we channel our combined efforts into another group build, I'm sure the inevitable will happen... more good tips & tricks will appear! -KK Here's a little ditty that came out during this thread: Where did your Revell '29 Model A kit come from? This PU bed came from "Nowhere"... This one was made in the U.S.A., and Where did your '29 PU/Roadster kit come from? -KK Edited September 25, 2021 by Kit Karson Text correction... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobthehobbyguy Posted September 25, 2021 Share Posted September 25, 2021 Definitely would like to see another thread al8ng this line. How about projects inspired by Tim Boyds kit bashing projects. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bill-e-boy Posted September 26, 2021 Share Posted September 26, 2021 Where did mine come from. Only has date stamp on the bottom of one of the running boards. But on the box lid But wherever the kit was moulded they left behind a lot of flash Started working on stance. I had to cut a section out of the back of the cab for the raised frame rails and rear suspension link rods Also had to file a little from the front guard valance to get the front down. Sits at about 6 scale inches at the front of the running board which is low for an A-Bone Cab cuts Check out my flashy butt I had to cut away al of the bed supports from the guards to get them to sit over the frame and for the running board supports to meet up Lastly stance which is improved heaps Thanks for looking 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kit Karson Posted September 26, 2021 Share Posted September 26, 2021 (edited) @bill-e-boywe need to see more of your "flashy butt" before you hide it under her skirt... -KK ps did you buy your kit in country? Spent a little time at the bench, hooked up the trailer jack: Cut three pieces of plastic stock Bolted the block to the jack with some fun tack Position trailer for the addition to the neck Klamp & a little CA later '29 PU Trailer Jack at Rest '29 PU Trailer Jack at Work After a little shaping the block addition will feel right at home... While securing the jack mounting block, decided to dress out the door hinges: Plugged the lower upper & upper lower hinges... A little CA & plastic rod... Basic tools of the trade... Trimmed & filed the upper upper & lower lower door hinges Next step: Klean & install the lower upper & upper lower hinges into the Cab door surround! -KK btw I reread the instructions and found where the hinges, Part #55 go! Nobody every said modeling can't be fun!! Edited September 26, 2021 by Kit Karson Text correction... & Picture Removal Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alan barton Posted September 27, 2021 Share Posted September 27, 2021 OK< this will be my blueprint to get my hinges done! Your timing is perfect! Cheers Alan 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bill-e-boy Posted September 28, 2021 Share Posted September 28, 2021 @Kit Karson-KK ps did you buy your kit in country? Hi Kit - I bought kit down here in NZ from local model shop years ago - at least I am certain that's where it was sourced from The kit was opened over 20 years ago to donate the frame and other parts for the sister build of the Royce Fisher Tribute T pickup posted in this forum The left over T and A parts are mainly what I am using here. The original idea was to make a modern style pickup but I just needed the nudge to get it done So here we are............ 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kit Karson Posted September 28, 2021 Share Posted September 28, 2021 2 hours ago, bill-e-boy said: @Kit Karson-KK ps did you buy your kit in country? Hi Kit - I bought kit down here in NZ from local model shop years ago - at least I am certain that's where it was sourced from The kit was opened over 20 years ago to donate the frame and other parts for the sister build of the Royce Fisher Tribute T pickup posted in this forum The left over T and A parts are mainly what I am using here. The original idea was to make a modern style pickup but I just needed the nudge to get it done So here we are............ Well aware of the Royce Fisher Tribute T Pickup! Knowing the back story on the origin of the kit is an interesting part of your build. Kudos to the local model shop... is it still around? @bill-e-boyI've really enjoyed working along side you and @alan barton! -KK Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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