Matt Bacon Posted December 29, 2020 Share Posted December 29, 2020 And now for a bit of a change from the tiny Heller 80s cars: This was bought at a very reasonable price from the 'bay as "possibly incomplete". After a careful review of the contents against the instruction sheets, I was missing half an exhaust silencer, one hood panel, and a tiny door handle. Fortunately, the kit is still being sold by "SE Finecast" as it now is (this box was from the predecessor "Wills Finecast"), and the nice chaps there sold me the replacement bits I needed for another eminently reasonable sum. While I was taking the parts inventory, I separated the key stages into separate bags. This is bag No.1, which contains the chassis frame and transmission. The fine detail is very impressive, and beautifully moulded, with little in the way of seams or flash. As they say, the journey of a thousand miles begins with a single step. The main chassis frames are in two halves. A bit of cleaning up and some 2-part epoxy, and here we go... I have a whole different set of tools, materials and techniques to get used to! I think I'm going to need some faster glue... Don't expect to see this finished any time soon; I may run some more traditional builds in parallel. If I can get it done in 2021, I'll be happy! best, M. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beamerman Posted December 29, 2020 Share Posted December 29, 2020 This looks very interesting...i´m not a fan of metal kits but i´m allways willing to learn from others...keep going...have fun..i like it... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bainford Posted December 29, 2020 Share Posted December 29, 2020 Very interesting project. I'm watching this one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisR Posted December 30, 2020 Share Posted December 30, 2020 These kits are a lot of work but tuns out nicely. I did built the Ferrari Shark-nose and the ERA although I replaced the cast spoke wheels with photo-etch spokes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Bacon Posted January 3, 2021 Author Share Posted January 3, 2021 Thanks, chaps... I think, to borrow a phrase from elsewhere, "this is a marathon, not a sprint..." The fine detail is exquisite; the instructions, less so... Though maybe 45 years on from when this kit was first bought -- I inherited the original 1976 invoice -- the fashion for exploded diagrams has thoroughly triumphed over the detailed written words I have to mull over. Just one "reverse angle" diagram would help hugely, even though the sheet of built up model photos is better than nowt... best, M. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Bacon Posted January 6, 2021 Author Share Posted January 6, 2021 At the risk of boring folks, I'm going to post a lot of in progress photos, in the hope of helping future builders who find this thread. The drawings and photo sheet in the box are helpful, but I'll post up pictures with the views I wish I'd had to help me ? So let's start with the interesting three-spring rear suspension: This is how the transmission brake and brake cross-rod are oriented. Front axle and suspension: Rear axle and differential: The detail and fit are very impressive. The seam between the two halves is mostly filled by the epoxy adhesive, which I've then trimmed off with a sharp knife, but there are a couple of places where I've used microballoons and superglue to finish off. I primed this so I could see any gaps and flash left after assembly. And now a lot of pictures of the completed back end. It took some time to figure out exactly how the Y-shaped torque tube piece fitted... especially since it was broken into two pieces in the box! That's it for now. I continue to be very impressed by the engineering. A lot of the time, after cleaning up the bits, they are a solid press fit together which can then be "set" by running superglue into the joint. best, M. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeeBee Posted January 6, 2021 Share Posted January 6, 2021 Superb work Matt, I've often thought about giving one of these kits a go... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bainford Posted January 7, 2021 Share Posted January 7, 2021 This is quite a kit. The molded detail is remarkable, and the built up subassemblies are excellent. Very fine work so far. Do you build many metal kits? I’ve been curious to have a go at one, but my preconceived notion is that they are generally monsters with deplorable fit. Apparently this is not necessarily so. I’m very impressed with this one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Bacon Posted January 7, 2021 Author Share Posted January 7, 2021 (edited) Thanks, @GeeBee. @Bainford this is my first white metal kit. I have a few others from Finecast in my stash: a Bugatti 59 and 35, an ERA and a Jaguar SS100. Because I got this Rolls cheap on eBay, I thought it would be a good test bed to learn the techniques on before tackling any of the others! It’s also a significant automobile to have in the collection with no alternative in 1/24 but white metal... best, M. Edited January 7, 2021 by Matt Bacon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Bacon Posted January 7, 2021 Author Share Posted January 7, 2021 (edited) Some more progress, and a milestone, today... Easy one first... the steering track rod. Look at the bolt and joint detail, though... Now for the side mounted "supplementary torque tubes" at the rear: On this last picture, you can see the brake inners. There is a slight "flat" on the axle which is where the actuation lever on the inner face fits. The lever comes downwards, because that lower end needs to be joined by a wire to the lever on the brake cross rod (see above) on each side. The rear axle is braced with a length of nickel silver wire between the two dimples in the backs of the axle clamps, over the slotted mounting on the diff. Amazingly, even this 3" piece of wire was still in the "possibly incomplete" kit box. If your geometry ends up like mine, the asymmetric wire is 20mm on the left side and 24mm on the right, with 2mm flat in the centre mounting. So here's the first milestone: This completes assembly of "Stage One: the chassis" And THIS completes assembly of "Stage 2: the radiator". It's two parts, front and back. You'll note an AA badge, not the "Spirit of Ecstacy" you might expect... Couldn't resist a trial: While I was at it, I though I'd check the sit on the wheels. My plan is to put a clear perspex rod support under that curved undertray in the middle to relieve the axles and kingpins of the weight of the white metal body. And now: "Stage 3: the engine"... The parts as moulded. Note lots of delicate detail, and representations of pretty much all the plumbing and ancillaries. Main assemblies under way. I've used epoxy on these to ensure resilience and fill any small seam gaps (though any gaps really are small... one of the cylinder banks was pretty much a perfect press fit, as you can see in the parts photo above.) Time to let them set... best, M. Edited January 7, 2021 by Matt Bacon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dann Tier Posted January 7, 2021 Share Posted January 7, 2021 I'm gonna enjoy this!!!...looks like a great kit! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charlie8575 Posted January 8, 2021 Share Posted January 8, 2021 This will be an interesting build to watch. Another significant car whose presence in model form is sorely lacking. Charlie Larkin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Modeller Posted January 8, 2021 Share Posted January 8, 2021 Beautiful car... looking forward to seeing this one progress. I secured (finally) a South Eastern Finecast kit of the Mk.1 Mini Austin/Morris kit just before Christmas. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Bacon Posted January 9, 2021 Author Share Posted January 9, 2021 Thanks, guys... busy day, so not a lot of actual modelling progress today, but... These two have arrived. I'm reliably informed that there's not much difference between American fashions of the swells of 1910 and Edwardian aristocratic Brits, so with appropriate painting, they'll provide scale and animation... best, M. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Bacon Posted January 11, 2021 Author Share Posted January 11, 2021 Slow progress, but some... Chassis has been primed and painted with Tamiya Mica Silver, and has (just) been given a fairly subtle wash with Citadel "Nuln Oil" to pop the detail, particularly on the springs. And assembling the engine has begun: Now, the sharp-eyed among you will have noticed that there are two spark plugs per cylinder. One set are wired to the distributor, which sits on that mounting at the front (to the right in the second engine picture), and the other set are wired to the magneto, mounted on the other side of the engine on the shelf in the middle of the crankcase on the first picture. I'm curious what this set up is all about... anyone knowledgeable about 1907-vintage engines able to enlighten me? Bill @Ace-Garageguy ? There are a fair number of small ancillary parts painted with AK True Metal Copper and Brass drying in a warm place before polishing them tomorrow... best, M. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeeBee Posted January 11, 2021 Share Posted January 11, 2021 (edited) 39 minutes ago, Matt Bacon said: Now, the sharp-eyed among you will have noticed that there are two spark plugs per cylinder. One set are wired to the distributor, which sits on that mounting at the front (to the right in the second engine picture), and the other set are wired to the magneto, mounted on the other side of the engine on the shelf in the middle of the crankcase on the first picture. I'm curious what this set up is all about... anyone knowledgeable about 1907-vintage engines able to enlighten me?... . Basically the twin system gives Reliability and thorough combustion of the cylinders, if one fails you're not going to break down. Edited January 11, 2021 by GeeBee Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Bacon Posted January 12, 2021 Author Share Posted January 12, 2021 Thanks, Geoff... Not a great picture, but here are some key bits of plumbing, "painted" with AK "True Metal" wax and polished: This is the water pump (brass) and cooling manifold. The water pump is driven by the shaft from the right, which clearly also drives the distributor (not yet installed). And this is the shaft driven magneto and inlet manifold (at the top) which will be attached to the carburettor. BTW, in terms of attention to detail, look at the valve springs, which are not all moulded generically in the same positions, but "animated." A couple of other views. I'm pretty sure that the pulleys on the timing case and fan drive should have a belt or chain joining them, but haven't found any clear views of it yet for this engine. The rather funky carburettor in place. This really is the cross-over of steam age engineering and the 20th century! And this is where I'm at tonight. I need to think about how much I want to wire those plugs! best M. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeeBee Posted January 12, 2021 Share Posted January 12, 2021 A work of art Matt.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doorsovdoon Posted January 13, 2021 Share Posted January 13, 2021 This is looking great, I can't believe it's die cast! Very nice kit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Bartrop Posted January 13, 2021 Share Posted January 13, 2021 Definitely following this one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peteski Posted January 13, 2021 Share Posted January 13, 2021 1 hour ago, doorsovdoon said: This is looking great, I can't believe it's die cast! Very nice kit. While it is a metal model kit, I don't know if I woudl call it die-cast. As I understand the die-casting process, it is done using steel molds (very similar to the molds used for injection molding plastic kits), and injecting a liquid metal (zinc-alloy) under high pressure. Again, similar to injection molded plastic. This metal kit is made by a small cottage industry type of company. They likely use vulcanized rubber molds, and low-temperature soft-metal alloy (likely pewter). I is probably done using spin-casting technique. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeeBee Posted January 13, 2021 Share Posted January 13, 2021 8 hours ago, peteski said: This metal kit is made by a small cottage industry type of company. They likely use vulcanized rubber molds, and low-temperature soft-metal alloy (likely pewter). I is probably done using spin-casting technique. Exactly correct Peter, I haven't spoken or been in touch with Finecast for a few years now, although they specialise more in their locomotive kits. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DonW Posted January 13, 2021 Share Posted January 13, 2021 (edited) On 1/11/2021 at 10:37 PM, GeeBee said: . Basically the twin system gives Reliability and thorough combustion of the cylinders, if one fails you're not going to break down. My dad's Lagonda M45 also had two pugs per cylinder, one set fired from a coil, the other from a magneto. You could select one or other or both (the latter was the optimum) and it was noticeable how the power dropped off if coil or mag only were selected. I love what you're doing with this model - Wills Finecast kits used to be advertised in Motorsport magazine in the early 1960sand maybe even earlier - I don't know when the company began producing them. Edited January 13, 2021 by DonW Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Bacon Posted January 13, 2021 Author Share Posted January 13, 2021 Thanks, all! @DonW can you remember if there were specific circumstances to use one or other or both? Hard to see why you would ever NOT use both unless there were some downside... like increased fuel consumption. Though without integrated systems, it’s hard to see how the carburettor would “know” whether there were one or two sparks in the cylinder when the air/fuel mix got there... best, M. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ace-Garageguy Posted January 13, 2021 Share Posted January 13, 2021 2 hours ago, DonW said: My dad's Lagonda M45 also had two pugs per cylinder, one set fired from a coil, the other from a magneto. You could select one or other or both (the latter was the optimum) and it was noticeable how the power dropped off if coil or mag only were selected... Just as an aside, that's exactly what happens during a "mag check" on an IC aircraft engine prior to takeoff. Reciprocating aircraft engines have dual magneto ignition systems for redundancy, and the mag check consists of switching off each mag alternately at a particular throttle setting. Acceptable RPM drop when one mag is shut down is typically in the 50-100 RPM range, with 175 being about the absolute allowable maximum. Considering mag checks are generally done at around 1800 RPM, that's a lot of power loss with one shut down. PS: Nice work on this, Matt. Beautiful kit too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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