doorslammer68 Posted January 2, 2021 Share Posted January 2, 2021 Can anyone tell me the quickest way to REMOVE WINDOW FLASHING from resins????????????? I have the P/S Comet/Maverick from Competiton Resins really nice but excess flashing is thick and a real PAIN IN THE ASS to remove LOL!!!Besides an exacto which takes foreverrrrrrrrrrrrr does anyone have a speedier way? Thanks very much Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roncla Posted January 2, 2021 Share Posted January 2, 2021 I use a Dremel 8050-N/18 Micro 8V Max Tool Kit to knock the worst of the flash off then finish up with the usual fine files and sandpaper. There is a huge selection of different tools available for these rotary tools going from coarse to fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gotnitro? Posted January 3, 2021 Share Posted January 3, 2021 I prefer using a PE saw for cutting resin, several companies make them . Mine fit right into a standard hobby knife handle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Geiger Posted January 3, 2021 Share Posted January 3, 2021 Prior to removing flash and sanding, it’s best to wash / soakthe body to remove any mold release. You don’t want to embed it into the resin by sanding Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
espo Posted January 3, 2021 Share Posted January 3, 2021 23 hours ago, doorslammer68 said: Can anyone tell me the quickest way to REMOVE WINDOW FLASHING from resins????????????? I have the P/S Comet/Maverick from Competiton Resins really nice but excess flashing is thick and a real PAIN IN THE ASS to remove LOL!!!Besides an exacto which takes foreverrrrrrrrrrrrr does anyone have a speedier way? Thanks very much Tom Geiger makes an excellent point about handling any Resin bodies or parts. I'm not sure how often you have worked with Resin and this may very well be old news to you. I would suggest even doing any grinding or sanding away from your normal work area. You also want to avoid breathing any of the dust or touching your face or eyes when working with it. The dust can be very irritating and also prevent a good bond between the body or any part you are painting even with a brush. You want to prevent any of the other parts you are using from being contaminated with the Resin dust. I myself don't always consider using automotive based primers but this is an exception. I would use an automotive based primer on everything that is made of the resin, then go with your normal painting process from there. Only my personal experience, but have found that the Tamiya paints that I would normally use including their primers do not adhere well when used without the automotive based primers being used first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StevenGuthmiller Posted January 3, 2021 Share Posted January 3, 2021 17 hours ago, Roncla said: I use a Dremel 8050-N/18 Micro 8V Max Tool Kit to knock the worst of the flash off then finish up with the usual fine files and sandpaper. There is a huge selection of different tools available for these rotary tools going from coarse to fine. This. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CabDriver Posted January 3, 2021 Share Posted January 3, 2021 I think if you’re not used to doing it, I’d take the slower but safer route before bringing out the motorized tools...rather slow and steady than ruin something. That said, if you feel confident in your Dremelling skills - have at it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deuces ll Posted January 4, 2021 Share Posted January 4, 2021 www.shaviv.com Check it out!!!!!!..... ???? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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