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5 hours ago, Sam I Am said:

Thanks Brian, I would appreciate those pics for future reference.  Right now,, for mock up sake,  I would like to know if the Titan location for the engine is ok,  or if I need to lower it in the frame. 

Oh, and I started looking for reference pics. The first two are what I am going after,  the last ones are squirrels.  😄

 

 

 I  believe you will have to modify the front of your floor pan to allow for the radiator.

Here is a Titan with a12v-71

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Here is a Crackerbox with an 8v. It does look like the frame rails drop a little on the Crackerbox but the manifold to frame distance looks about the same.

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Now notice the front of the engine tunnel

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It looks to me like the tunnel angels up to allow for the radiator. If I'm not mistaken the kit is straight.

 

Here is a few pictures for inspiration if you need any more let me know

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Edited by DRIPTROIT 71

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4 hours ago, Sam I Am said:

Thanks Brian, I would appreciate those pics for future reference.  Right now,, for mock up sake,  I would like to know if the Titan location for the engine is ok,  or if I need to lower it in the frame. 

Oh, and I started looking for reference pics. The first two are what I am going after,  the last ones are squirrels.  😄

 

After a second look at my pictures, with the way the frame drops on the 1:1 compared to your kit frame, the 8v may need to sit a little lower. You may consider shaving some off the top of the frame rail to simulate the 1:1. Notice the top of the transmission compared to the rear frame rails, this will give you an idea on how deep to set the engine. Anyway, if you need more pictures let me know.

Edited by DRIPTROIT 71

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If I am looking at the pictures correctly,  it looks like the exhaust manifold is running fairly parallel with the top of the frame rail. 

Here is a pic of the kit Titan engine in its original location.  I can lower the crossmember to level out the engine a bit, and can slide the engine forward a tic so the crank driven fan clears the crossmember. If I need more manifold clearance I can also notch the frame rail to make it appear that it drops down. 

Here is the resin floor pan that Jeff left out for clearance.  He made his own. It appears that with Jeff's modifications there is plenty of room for the engine. I would have to disassemble part of the cab to get the resin floorboard installed, and yes Brian,  it does look like the hump is straight and not angled like in the pic. I even have a narrow radiator and what looks like something I can fake into a rear cab mount. 

Did I bite off more than I can chew?

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1 hour ago, Sam I Am said:

If I am looking at the pictures correctly,  it looks like the exhaust manifold is running fairly parallel with the top of the frame rail. 

Here is a pic of the kit Titan engine in its original location.  I can lower the crossmember to level out the engine a bit, and can slide the engine forward a tic so the crank driven fan clears the crossmember. If I need more manifold clearance I can also notch the frame rail to make it appear that it drops down. 

Here is the resin floor pan that Jeff left out for clearance.  He made his own. It appears that with Jeff's modifications there is plenty of room for the engine. I would have to disassemble part of the cab to get the resin floorboard installed, and yes Brian,  it does look like the hump is straight and not angled like in the pic. I even have a narrow radiator and what looks like something I can fake into a rear cab mount. 

Did I bite off more than I can chew?

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I don’t think that you have bitten off more than you can chew. Keep in mind you can always fall back to a curbside on this project as when it makes it to the shelf, the cab is rarely tilted. You probably already know this, but I would remove all belt drives from the front. The Ertl style radiator is a bit narrower but has a very large top tank. You may consider narrowing a radiator with a smaller tank or modifying the tank on that one. Sit everything in place and give it a test run. Even on bigger cabs, radiator clearance is almost always an issue. For that matter I had some issue with radiator clearance on the T800 I’m building now.

Hang in there! You got this!

Edited by DRIPTROIT 71

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You're gonna nail this Sam  !  All the members here will definitely help get ya squared away .

Sorry I hacked that floor up so bad , building it as a mixer I planned keeping cab closed and just stuffed everything in the hole . I never realized until late the fans could be run off crank which really helped fit 

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No apologies needed Jeff. After mocking up everything, I also thought a curbside was the best way to go. But then I found this pic and realized how low this radiator sat...that and I saw a few built models with the cab hinged and wondered how...

Now, is there a pic of the bottom of the radiator,  that is the question..

Does anyone have a couple cans of Tamiya mica red that they would trade? 😅

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Edited by Sam I Am

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1 hour ago, DRIPTROIT 71 said:

For that matter I had some issue with radiator clearance on the T800 I’m building now.

I need to pick your brain on a T800 conversion I have planned as well.  I will pm you later. 

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Just now, Sam I Am said:

I need to pick your brain on a T800 conversion I have planned as well.  I will pm you later. 

10-4 No Problem.

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22 minutes ago, leafsprings said:

Never been a fan of the rear hubs on most AMT kits.   Here is a photo of  the 34K  tandem.

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Yeah, I have looked at so many pics of wheels,  they are all starting to look the same.  If you are a photographer,  and taking a picture of a vehicle,  you are supposed to shoot a 3/4 view.  Everyone on the web must be a photographer,  because I can hardly find any straight on side shots,  and the ones I find won't be good enough to zoom in on. 😄

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IMO,  dechromed axle caps off the KW kits would look great glued over your rear ( red ) hubs. They are flatter and more realistic looking.

Edited by leafsprings

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