(HRM) Shelby Cobra Daytona Coupe

[Venom]

On 2/20/2021 at 9:31 AM, JohnnyK said:

Great job on the interior. Those pedals look fantastic.

Thanks for the compliment John!

[Venom]

Update:

For the stripes and roundels I will not be using the decals and will paint them on instead. The reason is mostly because I have very little experience with decals much bigger than a fingernail and the one time I tried a bumblebee stripe on the back of a Charger I nearly had a panic attack... I definitely want to get some experience in on applying decals, but since I’m used to painting, this is definitely NOT the model I want to practice decals on!  Also, I wanted the stripes to be Wimbledon White and the VRM decals are more like a plain bright white, so I’ll be able to solve that issue here as well.

Oh, but first I had to fix the horribly glaring steering wheel issue as posted in the previous pics...😀

The pic below shows where I reused one of the tape roundels. I don’t know why I thought I needed to save all three for this project.

 

 

Edited February 23, 2021 by Venom

[afx]

Nice masking/paint work Jason.

[absmiami]

It worked !

[vamach1]

Fantastic paint.  I hear you when it comes to decal stripes.  Unless the surface is completely flat which it almost never is, painting them is the way to go.

[Bainford]

Excellent work, Josh. Nice save on the steering wheel. It's a pain to deconstruct an assembly in order to make a repair, but almost always worth the effort in the end. Also impressed with the other interior details, especially the wear & tear on the various components. It looks very realistic. The body painting looks top notch, especially the stripes and roundels. Great work here, worthy of such an auspicious subject. BTW, what paint did you use for Guardsman Blue? The colour looks right on.

[MarkJ]

Wow, Josh . Now you have some seriously awesome paint work going on. Those roundels came out perfect. Great save on the steering wheel. 

[cobraman]

Great job on the paint.

[Venom]

6 hours ago, afx said:

Nice masking/paint work Jason.  (Josh)

 

5 hours ago, absmiami said:

It worked !

 

4 hours ago, vamach1 said:

Fantastic paint.  I hear you when it comes to decal stripes.  Unless the surface is completely flat which it almost never is, painting them is the way to go.

 

4 hours ago, Bainford said:

Excellent work, Josh. Nice save on the steering wheel. It's a pain to deconstruct an assembly in order to make a repair, but almost always worth the effort in the end. Also impressed with the other interior details, especially the wear & tear on the various components. It looks very realistic. The body painting looks top notch, especially the stripes and roundels. Great work here, worthy of such an auspicious subject. BTW, what paint did you use for Guardsman Blue? The colour looks right on.

 

2 hours ago, MarkJ said:

Wow, Josh . Now you have some seriously awesome paint work going on. Those roundels came out perfect. Great save on the steering wheel. 

 

1 hour ago, cobraman said:

Great job on the paint.

Hey all, thanks for your compliments! ... I can’t wait till I get the clearcoat done since the way I do it is kind of a lengthy process.

Trevor, I can’t say what the actual mixture is since I just go by my eye until it says it looks good ... I actually had “Guardsman Blue” leftover that I mixed for my Revell Cobra build, but I wanted to do a slightly different mix for this car since there is actually no known formula for the Guardsman Blue on the early Shelbys and the race cars got repainted a lot so there were visible variations from car to car. It’s a cool part of Shelby American’s history and I want my models to have a bit of that reflected in them also. ...Below are the paints I used to mix the blue.

 

Edited February 24, 2021 by Venom

[Venom]

On 2/15/2021 at 11:02 PM, kermn8r said:

... BTW, I am really enjoying this thread.  Keep the good work coming.  The Daytona Coupe has been my favorite care ever since I bought a K&B 1/24 slot car (on sale no less) somewhere between 1966 and 1968.  Yes, I still have it.

Hey Walt, sorry I’m just now getting to your post. That is awesome you still have that Daytona slot car after all this time ... heck, I hadn’t even been born yet!🤠 ...I’m glad you’re enjoying this - I’ll keep doing my best ... there’s a lot more to come, thanks👍

[Bill J]

Very nice work on the painting. I am amazed you mixed up paints to hit Guardsman Blue, and you nailed it! very impressive Sir! Again, thank you for sharing all the tips and your creativity on this build. I know it will help me if I ever decide to take on my HRM Daytona Coupe. I used to think if I owned a bunch of watches I would never run out of time, it has worked so far but can I really count on that? Enjoy each day

[MarkJ]

I have never tryed createx. What do you use to thin it and also to clean your air brush. Will you have to polish it and what kind of clear do you plan to use and will it have to be polished?

[Venom]

1 hour ago, MarkJ said:

I have never tryed createx. What do you use to thin it and also to clean your air brush. Will you have to polish it and what kind of clear do you plan to use and will it have to be polished?

Other than for the cleanup I stick with the brand specific products. Thinning is done with #4012 REDUCER, the clear coat is #5620 CLEAR COAT GLOSS, which I put down several coats of, let dry for 12 hours, then wet sand with sanding sponges, then polish. I clean my brush with any Windex that has ammonia in it. .. BTW, people seem to achieve different results with this clear coat. For me it always turns out more like semi gloss, but it is very workable with layering and spot spraying and sanding/polishing. In general, there was a notable learning curve with this line of paints and at first I was frustrated with it, but have now come to appreciate its abilities. You have to find the right thinning mixtures for you and be patient with it while you’re spraying your coats👍

Edited February 24, 2021 by Venom

[stinkybritches]

23 hours ago, MarkJ said:

I have never tryed createx. What do you use to thin it and also to clean your air brush. Will you have to polish it and what kind of clear do you plan to use and will it have to be polished?

Createx has great videos explaining how to thin, mix, and spray their various products. Good stuff.

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCS5HUc0LJfMrBTawXRLibzg

 

[MarkJ]

28 minutes ago, stinkybritches said:

Createx has great videos explaining how to thin, mix, and spray their various products. Good stuff.

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCS5HUc0LJfMrBTawXRLibzg

 

Thanks for the link , Rob. I made it a favorite.

[MarkJ]

22 hours ago, Venom said:

Other than for the cleanup I stick with the brand specific products. Thinning is done with #4012 REDUCER, the clear coat is #5620 CLEAR COAT GLOSS, which I put down several coats of, let dry for 12 hours, then wet sand with sanding sponges, then polish. I clean my brush with any Windex that has ammonia in it. .. BTW, people seem to achieve different results with this clear coat. For me it always turns out more like semi gloss, but it is very workable with layering and spot spraying and sanding/polishing. In general, there was a notable learning curve with this line of paints and at first I was frustrated with it, but have now come to appreciate its abilities. You have to find the right thinning mixtures for you and be patient with it while you’re spraying your coats👍

It would be nice to use something like windex to clean my gun rather the the toxic lacquer thinner I  have been using. 

[Venom]

Well, I finally got the clearcoat done, or should I say polishing?

 

 

These next pics show how poorly the clearcoat laid down when spraying... When I noticed it laying down rough, rather than freaking out, I just started laying on more and more coats. Past experience with this clear gave me the assurance that it would be saveable as long as I was patient with my sanding/polishing, and whattaya’ know...it paid off. After some tedious wet sanding, I hand polished with Meguiar’s Scratch-X, and then a final hand buffing with Turtle Wax Super Hard Shell. This is a perfect example of how workable this clear is... but believe me, I’m glad it’s done!

There is a small blemish on the hood cowling which I’ll be able to easily fix with some brush-on clear ....Overall I’m pretty happy with how it turned out.

Here is the clear and reducer I used.

Edited March 1, 2021 by Venom

[cobraman]

Paint looks great !

[absmiami]

2 hours ago, cobraman said:

Paint looks great   Yup.  Createx ...  for the uninitiated ...   Buy direct from them on the interweb. -  or what ??

[Venom]

19 hours ago, cobraman said:

Paint looks great !

Thanks Ray. The paint is always such a major step that I’m glad to get out of the way... so many things can go wrong that aren’t easy to fix.

17 hours ago, absmiami said:

19 hours ago, cobraman said:

Paint looks great   Yup.  Createx ...  for the uninitiated ...   Buy direct from them on the interweb. -  or what ??

Yep, it’s good stuff... Or what?😀👍

Edited March 2, 2021 by Venom

[MarkJ]

Oh yeah, The polishing did the trick. Bringing out a deep metallic mirror like finish. I'm definitely going to try the Createx. 

[absmiami]

https://worldwideauctioneers.com/listings/private-treaty/1965-shelby-cobra-daytona-coupe-csx-2469/

for sale;   Shelby's Daytona

without a racing history - it appears to be "show-room new"

which is almost weird - but its a Daytona ...

walk-a-round might help with some last minute details 

enjoy

 

[vamach1]

2 hours ago, absmiami said:

https://worldwideauctioneers.com/listings/private-treaty/1965-shelby-cobra-daytona-coupe-csx-2469/

for sale;   Shelby's Daytona

without a racing history - it appears to be "show-room new"

which is almost weird - but its a Daytona ...

walk-a-round might help with some last minute details 

enjoy

 

It’s not one fo the original six and it’s not one of the twenty that McClusky built from “new” chassis.  It appears to have been born a 289 roadster and converted to a Daytona Coupe.  The Original six are CSX 2286, 2287, 2299, 2300, 2601 and 2602 per Pete Brock’s book from 1995.  I believe the McClusky chassis are 2603-2623 but I am not sure.  Many would say those are not real Daytona Coupes even though they are almost duplicates in every sense.  I’ve attached the page from the book COBRA The first 40 years that shows CSX2469 which from the description should like Shelby wanted to have a Daytona Coupe since they original six race cars were used up and Ford was pushing the GT40 program so they sold them off for hardly anything. I suppose that one is where McClusky got the idea to build one more for Shelby after restoring some of the original ones over the years. My neighbor has the one featured in R&T magazine in 2015.  I got to ride in it on the pace lap for a race. 🙂

Back to the HRM model - I spoke to Brad (Harold Bradford) today and he got just gotten out of the hospital after a few weeks and he sounded okay but pray for his recovery or send him well wishes.  He left a message that he was sorry the resin kit he made for was taking so long.  There are not many people left around with his dedication to the hobby and his customers and Maryland Automotive Modelers Association members.  He enjoyed the pictures I printed and mailed him last month that I took at the Boulder CO Shelby Collection in early January.  I will send him pictures of Josh’s build when it’s done.  I need to get my butt in gear and start on mine.

[Venom]

Great info above Rex, thanks for sharing your background knowledge on this thread👍 ...Thanks for sharing the link Andrew.👍

Thats too bad about Harold. I hope he will be okay and I am wishing him my best.

Edited March 4, 2021 by Venom

[Bainford]

Great save on the clear coat. Very impressed with the paint on this. It looks fantastic.