New to airbrushing

[GrimmyTbear]

Howdy yall,

I've been using spray cans since I started models way back in middle school and always been interested in trying to learn and use airbrushes. My question is, where do I begin? what's a good airbrush to seek out for? I'm also looking for something that's not too expensive at the moment (medical condition made that kinda hard to do at the moment). Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

[John Pol]

A paasche H easy to clean its my work horse had it for 40 years

[Bills72sj]

I am new to airbrushing just starting late last year. You budget and the type of paints (and their solvents) will be the two biggest hurdles. I have a ton of testors rattle cans but am not generally happy with how they spray. Decanting and then using an airbrush has been a learning curve. Don't forget the paint booth.

 

[Miatatom]

1 hour ago, John Pol said:

A paasche H easy to clean its my work horse had it for 40 years

+1

They're  affordable too!

[NOBLNG]

1 hour ago, John Pol said:

A paasche H easy to clean its my work horse had it for 40 years

+2... I haven’t touched my Iwata eclipse since I got the Paasche.

[Dave G.]

I much prefer my original Badger 200 ( non NH) with fine needle and tip for lacquers like MCW, and also if doing fine work. The lacquer performs well with the very fine droplet size of the internal mix airbrush. Other than that I generally find myself using the Paasche H with #3 tip. And I'm mostly shooting acrylics these days, probably 90% acrylic at this time of my 62 years of  modeling history..I find very little use for double action in shooting model cars, though I have DA as well, it's rarely used. But I've been shooting that 200 for 45 years too, so it's a no brainer for me. Honestly either the H or 200 would be a very decent starting point for painting model cars unless someone has a burning desire that just has to be met, in other words an affliction for double action.

One thing I highly recommend for either airbrush is the metal side cup. Why ? Because it's a paint saver on small jobs and also allows for spraying a a little lower air pressure setting with paints that can be sensitive to higher air pressures. Sometimes being able to shoot 3-4 lb less pressure makes the difference.

Edited February 2, 2021 by Dave G.

[Misha]

Moving to an airbrush will significantly improve your future builds although there is a learning curve involved. Perhaps the first decision to make is whether to get a single action or dual action airbrush. The difference is in the trigger operation, the single action allows the paint and air to come out in a consistent spray while the dual action allows you separate controls over air delivery and paint resulting in greater control. Even for beginners I suggest obtaining a dual action, it may be a bit  more tricky in the beginning, yet it will provide greater satisfaction in the end. I find the that the Paasche VL to be a good starting point with ease of cleaning and operation.

Perhaps the key is to practice on file cards to obtain control and familiarity with paint to thinner ratios in mixing, aiming for a consistency of 2% milk. The other ingredient is a decent compressor that allows you to regulate air preassure, as that is the other variable in achieving a good finish. Look for a compressor with a storage tank, as that eliminates the pulsing action of typical diaphragm compressor.

There are many tutorials available on youtube to help you along. Wishing you success, as this will improve your work by applying paint finishes that are in scale with the model.

Cheers Misha

[hedotwo]

Depending on your budget, the H Paasche can't be beat and I believe you can still get it at Hobby Lobby either by itself or in the set.  Plus, if you hurry you can still use your 40% coupon.  I've read where HL is going to discontinue the coupon by 2/28.

I have and use an Iwata Eclipse dual action that, in my opinion, sprays much nicer than the H (which I also have) but the downside is the learning curve to a DA.  There are lots of factors in a good paint job,..  more than just the airbrush itself.

Good luck!

[TransAmMike]

For Christmas I got the Mr. Hobby Grex Proton 275 trigger dual action brush, unfortunately with the winter weather I have not been able to try it out and it's driving me nuts.  

[Dave G.]

2 hours ago, TransAmMike said:

For Christmas I got the Mr. Hobby Grex Proton 275 trigger dual action brush, unfortunately with the winter weather I have not been able to try it out and it's driving me nuts.  

You need a spray booth Mike, then that problem will be history.

[RichCostello]

7 hours ago, hedotwo said:

Depending on your budget, the H Paasche can't be beat and I believe you can still get it at Hobby Lobby either by itself or in the set.  Plus, if you hurry you can still use your 40% coupon.  I've read where HL is going to discontinue the coupon by 2/28.

I have and use an Iwata Eclipse dual action that, in my opinion, sprays much nicer than the H (which I also have) but the downside is the learning curve to a DA.  There are lots of factors in a good paint job,..  more than just the airbrush itself.

Good luck!

All of the airbrushes, and compressors at Hobby Lobby are "buy it now" priced, so the coupon won't work.

[TransAmMike]

3 hours ago, Dave G. said:

You need a spray booth Mike, then that problem will be history.

I Have one Dave but I have to paint in my unheated garage. I can get it heated up to about 60 degrees when outside temp is a little over 50 degrees.

[youpey]

I had gotten one of tye 20 dollar airbrush from ebay and it wasn't bad. i accidentally broke it by over tightening the tip and that was it. However it let me see what i thought of airbrush in general. 

I Bought an iwata from hobby lobby for like 70 dollars. Its good. My only complaint is the long cleaning process. i spray 1 piece for 5 seconds and then i have to clean it for 15 to 20 minutes to make sure the paint doesn't dry inside

[peteski]

1 hour ago, youpey said:

My only complaint is the long cleaning process. i spray 1 piece for 5 seconds and then i have to clean it for 15 to 20 minutes to make sure the paint doesn't dry inside

15 minutes?! Are you using water-based paints?

If you are using standard (stinky) enamels or lacquers, a good cleaning should not last more than 1-2 minutes. Then the airbrush can be put away, or ready for next paint job.  At least for me.  I always wonder why people complain that cleaning the airbrush is such a chore. It's easy-peasy! Just slightly longer than clearing  an aerosol can nozzle after spraying.

[kurth]

3 hours ago, peteski said:

15 minutes?! Are you using water-based paints?

If you are using standard (stinky) enamels or lacquers, a good cleaning should not last more than 1-2 minutes. Then the airbrush can be put away, or ready for next paint job.  At least for me.  I always wonder why people complain that cleaning the airbrush is such a chore. It's easy-peasy! Just slightly longer than clearing  an aerosol can nozzle after spraying.

I use lacquers, and just flushing with lacquer thinner, then removing and wiping off the needle, I find I can go quite a while between teardowns.  Especially when using perfectly thinned paint, there is pretty much nothing left after running out of paint. 

[peteski]

16 minutes ago, kurth said:

I use lacquers, and just flushing with lacquer thinner, then removing and wiping off the needle, I find I can go quite a while between teardowns.  Especially when using perfectly thinned paint, there is pretty much nothing left after running out of paint. 

Exactly!  Takes no time. Well, about a minute.

[Dave G.]

11 hours ago, youpey said:

I had gotten one of tye 20 dollar airbrush from ebay and it wasn't bad. i accidentally broke it by over tightening the tip and that was it. However it let me see what i thought of airbrush in general. 

I Bought an iwata from hobby lobby for like 70 dollars. Its good. My only complaint is the long cleaning process. i spray 1 piece for 5 seconds and then i have to clean it for 15 to 20 minutes to make sure the paint doesn't dry inside

 I just flush and back flush mine, Spray some alcohol or lacquer thinner and a final flush with water. I take the tip off and pull the needle every three months or so. Takes maybe 3 minutes with stubborn Stynylrez primer and maybe two minutes with anything else. Lacquer is easiest though, as mention maybe a minute of flushing. The key is repeated flushing and back flushing till there is no sign of color. Maybe take an alcohol soaked qtip and wipe off the tip. Done deal.

Edited February 3, 2021 by Dave G.

[TransAmMike]

5 hours ago, Dave G. said:

 I just flush and back flush mine, Spray some alcohol or lacquer thinner and a final flush with water. I take the tip off and pull the needle every three months or so. Takes maybe 3 minutes with stubborn Stynylrez primer and maybe two minutes with anything else. Lacquer is easiest though, as mention maybe a minute of flushing. The key is repeated flushing and back flushing till there is no sign of color. Maybe take an alcohol soaked qtip and wipe off the tip. Done deal.

Dave, please explain how to backflush for us kinda newbies.

[youpey]

6 hours ago, Dave G. said:

 I just flush and back flush mine, Spray some alcohol or lacquer thinner and a final flush with water. I take the tip off and pull the needle every three months or so. Takes maybe 3 minutes with stubborn Stynylrez primer and maybe two minutes with anything else. Lacquer is easiest though, as mention maybe a minute of flushing. The key is repeated flushing and back flushing till there is no sign of color. Maybe take an alcohol soaked qtip and wipe off the tip. Done deal.

I use lifecolor paints on my airbrush. basically i was cleaning by spraying until it was clear and after 3 or 4 uses, it wouldn't spray. i took it apart and found there was dried paint in the brush. I used a thin wire to clean it out. 

Now what i do is wipe out the cup with a napkin,  use cleaner or water to get the rest out, then i use a qtip to clean out the base of the cup for any dried paint. Then i spray with water or cleaner for a full cup.. then i take out the needle and wipe it. Then the wire to clean the paint inside the  brush. 

It takes a while, but i know when im ready to paint next time its ready to go

 

[Miatatom]

2 hours ago, TransAmMike said:

Dave, please explain how to backflush for us kinda newbies.

Most air brushes can be back flushed by putting some of your cleaning fluid in the cup, then the  loosening the cap. Place your finger over the tip and press the trigger. You should see bubbles in your paint cup. Rinse and repeat as needed.

[Dave G.]

2 hours ago, TransAmMike said:

Dave, please explain how to backflush for us kinda newbies.

Block the nozzle with your fingers and bubbles will come up in the cup or down in the bottle and bring with them paint that never seems to clear the nozzle no matter how much flushing.. Spray, back flush again. Dump out the gunk, do it again. I use hot water, then switch to alcohol and finish up with water. Open the nozzle right up when doing this. With solvent paints I do the same but with lacquer thinner. Lacquer is the easiest of all to flush as mentioned before because lacquer thinner literally melt lacquer paint..

In 1/1 I never tore the guns down, just flushed then unscrewed the cap and dropped it into the cup with a little LT in there till the next use. For decades I did the same with my Badger 200, put the cap and nozzle in the bottle with a little thinner. But for decades I never ran into these acrylics which take more cleaning imo. Certainly more flushing. Ya if you get a wonky spray pattern it is worth soaking the nozzle in LT over night, most everything will be gone in the morning. I polish my needles too with a little bees wax and 000 or 0000 steel wool or polishing compound for that matter. Smooth and shiny, less paint cling. If the needles aren't shiny metal they need polishing ( yes that's my opinion but I'm not alone on it). I pull my needles out basically with nothing on them. Just sayin.

[TransAmMike]

Good info, thanks all.👌

[TransAmMike]

On 2/2/2021 at 7:10 PM, TransAmMike said:

I Have one Dave but I have to paint in my unheated garage. I can get it heated up to about 60 degrees when outside temp is a little over 50 degrees.

FINALLY ........The outside temperature got to 55 degrees outside and with 2 small heaters I got the garage temp to 64 degrees and I got to use my new Proton 275 trigger airbrush.

Wow, this airbrush definately outperforms the Paasche H and Badger airbrushes, at least as far as my experience goes. Mixed up the craft paint, about 25 psi and it sprayed great.  I never could get a decent paint flow with the other brushes and I immediately got great coverage with the 275.  The result was excellent but I'm sure it can be better.

By the way, no clear yet on the body, hence the satin finish.

 

 

[Dave G.]

13 hours ago, TransAmMike said:

FINALLY ........The outside temperature got to 55 degrees outside and with 2 small heaters I got the garage temp to 64 degrees and I got to use my new Proton 275 trigger airbrush.

Wow, this airbrush definately outperforms the Paasche H and Badger airbrushes, at least as far as my experience goes. Mixed up the craft paint, about 25 psi and it sprayed great.  I never could get a decent paint flow with the other brushes and I immediately got great coverage with the 275.  The result was excellent but I'm sure it can be better.

By the way, no clear yet on the body, hence the satin finish.

 

 

Lookin good Mike, congrats. I do a lot of base coating with craft paints and use the H or Badger 200 with good results. The key is the thinner blend and viscosity. Craft paint works fine, just be sure you prime is all. More importantly I'm really glad you got to use your new brush and are loving it !!!!

Edited February 5, 2021 by Dave G.

[TransAmMike]

35 minutes ago, Dave G. said:

Lookin good Mike, congrats. I do a lot of base coating with craft paints and use the H or Badger 200 with good results. The key is the thinner blend and viscosity. Craft paint works fine, just be sure you prime is all. More importantly I'm really glad you got to use your new brush and are loving it !!!!

It was primed with Krylon and seemed smooth enough, but I did lightly wet sand it with 3000. I'm wondering if I need to airbrush primer instead of rattle can, but what would be a good primer if airbrushed??

Incidently, I sprayed the dashboard not primed, probably not best thing to do, but the paint dried perfectly smooth, actually it looked like unpainted black styrene 🙄  Like I have said, I'm a WIP😉