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What Glue are you using??


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I'm well on my way to finishing a 1966 GT350. This is the first kit that I have put together in ages and have been using the old Testors glue in the orange tube, I typically use a tooth pick to apply the glue. 

 

The windows in this kit are cut very close to the size of the opening, when installing the windshield I got a smear of testors glue on the bottom potion of the winfshield (winshield slid once it was  in place.  I did some research and it looks like there are alternatives in the glue in the orange tube.  Please let me know whst you use or recommend.

 

I'm kind of bummed out about this,  this has been the best I've ever done building a kit,  I sprayed and polished the best paint job I have ever done.  I'll post some pics.

 

Thank you

edit:  I found a replacement windshield on ebay for 5.99  + 5.00 shipping.  I'm tempted to buy it, but it cost 1/2 as much as the kit.  i'll see if i can get the old one out before I buy it though

Edited by FLHCAHZ
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These are my most used glues. The Tamiya for all tight fitting styrene to styrene joints. The  canopy glue for windows if they fit well (epoxy if they don’t).  I use the CA thick or epoxy for joints with gaps or any joints that are not styrene to styrene. CA for mirrors or fiddly parts that need an instant bond to stay put.

B3D5C00E-30C6-447F-AC95-E613531A3A67.jpeg

Edited by NOBLNG
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x2 on white glue or "canopy glue" for clear parts.  I've been away from the hobby for 25 years myself and now trying to relearn based on the current products available.  Kits I built 25+ years ago using canopy glue for clear parts have held up well through display, storage, moving, etc.  When I got back into the hobby for a short time 25ish years ago in my 30s, I hadn't built any kits since I was a kid.  I started off with what I knew, including the orange tube glue.  It took several kits and a lot of reading magazines (not much internet in 1995) and talking to guys in the hobby store to figure out how to improve my techniques with better products.  That said, I am in awe of some of what I see on this forum.  

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I have six or eight different "glues" on my bench at all times. For clear parts, my go-to is Tacky Glue, a high-grade white glue, available at Walmart or any crafts store. 

I last bought a tube of Testor orange tube glue in the '70s, just in case I ever needed it. It remains unopened. I can't think of ANYTHING that it would be the preferred solution for. 

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I have a few different ones that I use.  For most parts applications, I use the Faller bottle glue, that has almost a hypodermic applicator.  For clear parts, I use the testor's canopy glue.  Sometimes I'll break out the Plastruct plastic weld (MEK), and if it's something that is really stubborn I use the gorilla super glue.

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If you can get the old windshield out in one piece without cracking it, you could try using a polishing kit, or a sanding stick (like the Flexi File versions, which include a three grit polishing stick in their kit) to sand out and then polish the area marred by glue. Finish up with some liquid polish to remove any haze.

https://www.bobthetrainguy.com/flex-i-file-flex-pad-5-piece-intro-set-525/

For gluing windshields, tack it in place with epoxy or tape, and run Micro Scale's Crystal Clear around the edges. Let it set up for a few days before continuing assembly.

http://www.microscale.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=MI-9

I generally keep solvent glues (which melt plastic) and super glues (which can fog chrome and glass) away from windshields and chrome parts of the model.

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The orange tube Testors isn't as aggressive as it once was, I bet you can get that windshield out fine. Then sand and polish as mentioned. As a final step you could dip it into some Pledge Floor care if you have that on hand.

I glue my clear parts in with Testors black bottle glue made for clear parts ( be careful because they have a black bottle for regular parts that is stronger than orange tube, don't mistake that for clear parts glue).. In my experience it grips better than plain white glue to plastic parts but has a similar look if a bit thicker.

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5 minutes ago, Dave G. said:

The orange tube Testors isn't as aggressive as it once was, I bet you can get that windshield out fine. Then sand and polish as mentioned. As a final step you could dip it into some Pledge Floor care if you have that on hand.

I glue my clear parts in with Testors black bottle glue made for clear parts ( be careful because they have a black bottle for regular parts that is stronger than orange tube, don't mistake that for clear parts glue).. In my experience it grips better than plain white glue to plastic parts but has a similar look if a bit thicker.

Hi Dave (my go too advisor)!   Chaz, I also use the Testors Dave mentions. In fact as you know I'm working on that same model. Those side windows were a real pain for me, but taping them in helped a lot.

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