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65 Impala wagon (pro touring style)


Steve H

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On 10/12/2021 at 11:09 AM, gman said:

Your work looks excellent so far, as do your colour choices.

If your paint is lacquer based, the solvents on each successive coat are what chemically binds one coat (primer/colour/clear) to the next. You can normally dust lacquer primer on, and apply thin coats of lacquer colour over bodywork, but if the clear goes on relatively wet that melting action of the solvent in your clear can reach down and activate previous coats, disturbing everything down to the filler (especially if you used something that is also solvent based for filler). In the case of your resin body, at least it won't etch the body itself, like it could over styrene. 

DA940A7B-ED5D-4075-9ED2-6A66CC90DECA.jpeg

^^ the caption for this photo doesn't get into what type of filler you used, but if it emits a solvent smell when curing and shrinks after application, there is a good chance it is solvent-based, and could be affected by solvents in lacquer overcoats if they don't have enough time to gas out. 

I can't tell from your photos, but hopefully the ghosting is something that another thin coat of clear (after ample cure time for what has been sprayed already) will cover. 

 


 

 

21 hours ago, Claude Thibodeau said:

Hi Steve!

Very nice gloss coat, bravo!

To your "ghosting" of the OEM door lines... Is your body filler/putty catalyzed, or solvent based? If it is of the latter variety, it would explain the ghosting effect...

CT 

Greg and Claude, thank you for the info. Greg your thorough explanation makes sense. I used Tamiya white putty, haven’t had a look yet to see it’s composition. I’m wondering if a “hotter” paint would exacerbate the chemical reaction? The “Automotive Touchup” paint seemed a bit hotter than the Tamiya. My last coat of clear always goes on a touch heavy, so that was likely the culprit. I am doing another 4door to 2door conversion on my next build, so I want to make sure I don’t repeat. Although I will be using all Tamiya paint and I don’t recall having that issue in the past with ghosting and Tamiya paint. 
Is there a better/different filler that I should give a try?

Thanks again guys, much appreciated.

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10 hours ago, Spottedlaurel said:

I've had a busy summer and have got out of touch with WIPs here, but it's great to be reminded of this one and see how it's progressing - looks fantastic Steve!

Well hello Nigel!!, I can relate, it’s been a busy summer for me too with not enough desk time. Fall is here, along with the west coast rain, so starting to get more hobby time now. As you can see, you didn’t miss much here…. I’ve got some catching up to do too!

Thanks for checking in and for the kind words. Nice to hear from you.

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18 hours ago, Steve H said:


 

 

Greg and Claude, thank you for the info. Greg your thorough explanation makes sense. I used Tamiya white putty, haven’t had a look yet to see it’s composition. I’m wondering if a “hotter” paint would exacerbate the chemical reaction? The “Automotive Touchup” paint seemed a bit hotter than the Tamiya. My last coat of clear always goes on a touch heavy, so that was likely the culprit. I am doing another 4door to 2door conversion on my next build, so I want to make sure I don’t repeat. Although I will be using all Tamiya paint and I don’t recall having that issue in the past with ghosting and Tamiya paint. 
Is there a better/different filler that I should give a try?

Thanks again guys, much appreciated.

It has been many years since I used it, but I believe the basic Tamiya putties are solvent-based. You should be able to tell by the smell released during curing. They also make an epoxy putty, a polyester catalyzed putty, and a light curing putty. Their solvent-based putties can be softened by hotter automotive lacquers and the solvents they contain.

I have been using 2 part Evercoat Eurosoft polyester putty for years. Much like other catalyzed putties, it makes a big stink while curing (think 2 part Bondo filler), but once cured it responds well to rough shaping shortly after curing, and feathers nicely on full cure. Unlike solvent based putty, it can be worked in minutes after application. Once cured/sanded, it is impervious to solvents. What I don't like about the Evercoat is the smell, and the size of the container (many years worth). It may be a good idea to try the Tamiya polyester putties for use under automotive lacquers, as they come in a small tube you can try before committing to a big can of something more economical per ounce. If you get the urge to try the Evercoat, seeing as you are a fellow British Columbian, you can find it at Lordco.

image.png.0054196eab26c669ad95b353ccb36e0f.png

It comes with a tube of hardener, and once that is done you can use single tubes sold for use with plastic body filler.

Edited by gman
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On 10/14/2021 at 11:18 AM, gman said:

It has been many years since I used it, but I believe the basic Tamiya putties are solvent-based. You should be able to tell by the smell released during curing. They also make an epoxy putty, a polyester catalyzed putty, and a light curing putty. Their solvent-based putties can be softened by hotter automotive lacquers and the solvents they contain.

I have been using 2 part Evercoat Eurosoft polyester putty for years. Much like other catalyzed putties, it makes a big stink while curing (think 2 part Bondo filler), but once cured it responds well to rough shaping shortly after curing, and feathers nicely on full cure. Unlike solvent based putty, it can be worked in minutes after application. Once cured/sanded, it is impervious to solvents. What I don't like about the Evercoat is the smell, and the size of the container (many years worth). It may be a good idea to try the Tamiya polyester putties for use under automotive lacquers, as they come in a small tube you can try before committing to a big can of something more economical per ounce. If you get the urge to try the Evercoat, seeing as you are a fellow British Columbian, you can find it at Lordco.

image.png.0054196eab26c669ad95b353ccb36e0f.png

It comes with a tube of hardener, and once that is done you can use single tubes sold for use with plastic body filler.

Hi Greg, thanks again for your input. I very much appreciate you taking the time to share your knowledge sir! I have some homework to do before the next build. I recall over the years hearing about Evercoat, might be time to give it a try…

Cheers, Steve

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Whew… this thing is kicking my butt… 
FINALLY have the body mounted permanently, so close now. I should definitely finish this weekend. Still need to add front grill/bumper, exhaust, windshield wipers and that’s about it. Here’s where I’m at…

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466B7DC0-D2F0-4450-8F11-83CFFE487C79.thumb.jpeg.ba289d2091a1ef02893d773434779752.jpeg

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Cheers, Steve

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15 hours ago, gman said:

That is looking really good.

Thanks Greg, and thanks again for sharing your thoughts on my paint issue. It got worse….
 

 

15 hours ago, Katsusauce said:

Super cool!!!  👍👍👍

Thank you Derek!

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Hi guys, last post here, it is finished. Got the exhaust built using styrene rod and a few bits from the spares bin. The kit exhaust needed to be modified, so I just started from scratch. Added my usual signature polished tips.

33391A9D-A21D-4117-A44B-062DD930A138.thumb.jpeg.e1939ffe89df1c044e4fb6a7bd155525.jpeg

So before showing the finished photos, I just want to thank everyone that commented, complimented, shared their knowledge, and looked in on this build. The photoshop visuals were particularly fun, thanks guys. This SHOULD have been a much easier project than it was. Warped body, warped chassis, parts that just didn’t fit or line up. At times I felt the thing was possessed!! So now not only do I have some ghosting issues with the paint, but the paint is literally self destructing! You will no doubt see in the pictures that there are “creases now visible in the paint. They’re appearing everywhere!!!! Not cracks, but actual creases you can feel. They weren’t there when I polished, they started showing up yesterday, then more today. It probably should have gone into the pond (or the wall), but after polish, foil, windows etc. are all done, I don’t have the stomach to start over. I’m calling it done, and it does look good in the display case…. for now anyway. Glad it’s done. 
on the positive side, it is one of my best interiors and I’m quite proud of how that part turned out. I’m also pleased with the overall look and colour combo. I learned lots. I will be very careful next time I use the touch up paint.

Here’s a couple of photos, I will post more under glass later today or tomorrow. Thanks again to all that followed along!!

6E660B47-447B-4C4C-82A5-71A7C9AD5A6C.thumb.jpeg.e472f945fd8e5bf0243625419faf0524.jpeg22ADA361-691E-4CE7-88E4-EDA643090516.thumb.jpeg.cdbbea8a1aee12514f1b9a59f07f7f33.jpeg

 

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Hi Steve, I've already seen this in the "Under Glass" thread and I'm glad to have found your build thread for it.

I always enjoy seeing the progress, the problems and the solutions and the slow march to completion. You had some very imaginative and creative answers to the questions posed by this project. The end results of which worked out beautifully.

Thanks for taking the time to share it all with us.

David G.

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11 hours ago, David G. said:

Hi Steve, I've already seen this in the "Under Glass" thread and I'm glad to have found your build thread for it.

I always enjoy seeing the progress, the problems and the solutions and the slow march to completion. You had some very imaginative and creative answers to the questions posed by this project. The end results of which worked out beautifully.

Thanks for taking the time to share it all with us.

David G.

Thanks for the kind words David, much appreciated. I sometimes wrestle with what progress to share, and what is just flat out boring. I try to find a balance, I know how much I enjoy following others trials and tribulations, and of course the final results.

Cheers, Steve

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