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3 minutes ago, Dann Tier said:

OUTSTANDING, Bud!!!!.....cant stop looking at it!!!   Question: what are the two empty boxes beside the exhausts?   i've never actually known.

Thanks @Dann Tier those boxes are the “boot” or “trunk” demanded by the 1960s Le Mans regulations. Goodness know what you could put in them without cooking it, but hey... They are a “hangover” like the spare wheel (handy ballast if carefully placed) and the second “co-driver” seat which only a midget could fit in (see Porsche 917...)

best,

M.

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Looks nice so far.

But it shows it's a Chinese developed model because it's not that accurate,  they did not bother to do the necessary research to get it right so there are lots of things that's weird.
I know the Ford FE engine quite well as I'm working on building a new one right now for my 1963½ Ford Galaxie 500XL and it looks like the fuel and oil lines are there just to get the engine compartment to look busy because some of them are going places that dont make much sence.
I looked at your pictures of the engine and was kind of intrigued by what they have done and here is a link to the complete instructions https://www.themodellingnews.com/2021/02/build-review-pt-i-ford-gt-40-mkii-1966.html and I have looked at them closely and wonder how they were thinking.

First of all the firing order wouldn't work like they have done it, the FE has 15426378 firing order and the distributor arm rotates anti clock wise, the cylinders are numbered counting from the front 1234 on the right side (passenger side on a street car) and 5678 on the left side and if you route the wires like they suggest the engine would fire the whole right bank first and then the left...it doesn't work that way because the 3 and 5 wires has to cross over to the other side of the engine to be right, this will not show much since the distributor is mostly hidden.

Step 21 The part No P6 line on top of the engine looks a bit strange because at the rear it goes into the lifter gallery under the intake manifold where the crank case ventilation usually goes on older FE's and it should go to an oil catch tank with a ventilator or something like that, but it looks like they have routed it into the water passage where one of the heater hoses usually goes on a street car, right behind the thermostat housing at the front of the intake manifold...a bit weird.

Step 23 The part No P8 fuel line goes down from in front of the carburetor and into the engine block side and one can wonder why because there are nothing there on a real block, the fuel pump are mounted on the drivers side of the timing chain cover just below the water pump on a street car but this one has electric fuel pumps above the left side fuel tank on the bulkhead on the car so that line should go to the fuel pumps and not the block side.

Step 24 The P7 lines are also a bit strange, they start at the left side of the engine block side near the rear,  they are suppsed to go to the oil coolers wich are one on each side, but I wonder how they were thinking as a couple of the P7 lines goes to a tank behind the drivers head on the bulkhead wich looks to be the expansion overflow tank for the cooling system, on the engine side of the lines there's nothing right there on a real FE block and the only oil outlet to and from the oil gallery is on the left side right behind the timing chain cover at the front of the engine block where the oil filter usually goes on a FE, and there is where they should have started, the GT40 has a dry sump system so it's a bit different from a street car but the oil lines should go from somewhere around there in line with the oil filter.

There are some other strange things on the Kar Kraft T44 Trans Axle where one oil line P3d is going to the what looks to be the expansion overflow tank for the cooling system and that can't be right because you definately don't want to mix oil and water.

The thing they call fuel tank in Step 42 is not for fuel at all, it's in fact the reservoir tank for the dry sump oil system used on early Mk II's because all Mk II's and Mk IV's has dry sump oil systems and the early Mk II has the oil tank there, the Mk IIB has the oil tank in the engine compartment on the forward left side beside the engine and the Mk IV has the oil tank on the other side near the rear wheel.
The fuel tanks are rubber bags inside the side pods on each side of the car and the fuel filler cap is on the right side in front of the drivers door on the outside of the car, some has one filler on each side of the car, so even here they got it wrong.

Edited by Force
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Hello ,

I am building the Trumpeter version right now and below are my questions and comments .

Chassis main frame color : I have already built 70% of the first model ( Building 2 ) so its too late to change colors . What is the blue color ref  you used for it ? was that the real color used at Lemans in 66 as per ref photos above ? if so i intend to paint this color on the next one

Electric distributor to cylinders and wiring : The trumpeter model does not supply any of these essential parts . 

Wishbone fittings to front  wheel hubs : My model does not supply screws .The wishbones keep popping out of the nipples on the wheel hubs . I have ordered mini plastic washers with the hope of securing them down with pressure .

Screws : The 2.5x5 mm screws supplied to secure the 4 wheels to the wheel hubs are not strong enough to withstand the weight .I substituted with longer x6 but i am worried eventually with time they will not hold and the plastic grip will fade .

Doors: I see your doors close well ,my models doors wont close . 

Miles livery : they say mix 80 % mr color light blue  with 20% white . not true . Its the other way around i found out .  

The front radiator fans : I dont see them on the original car .

Oil pan overflow : Could you please show us an image of Mengs  parts and fit . trumpeter gives us a big open bowl pan to fit below the crank . An oil  radiator with overflow tube pointing down . How can that be at over 320 km hr at le mans ?  

the bonnet flashes : trumpeter does not supply these decals or stencils ,  so i went by eye sight  tamiya tape  mr color shine red and  came out on top .

Fire extinguisheSpare wheel: none .

looking forward to your replies to my questions namely the chassis color and oil pan image ,

rgds 

 

Edited by dog1
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A resin spare wheel for the Trumpeter and Magnifier kit (wich are the same kit in different boxes) is available from Renissance TK12/003, and KA Models does a nice upgrade kit KS-00007 for it, a little pricey but nice.

The oil cooler can't have an overflow tube, the oil system in the engine is under 60-70 psi pressure made by the oil pump so the oil in the oil coolers has the same pressure as in the oil system in the engine itself and are plumbed to the oil system, the only place there is no oil  pressure is in the oil pan and in this case the oil tank as a dry sump system was used in the Mk II GT40's.

Here is how it looks on a real GT40 427 engine, it's a two piece thing with an aluminum front cover with gear driven scavenge pump at the bottom and the magnesum oil pan

orgins-ford-gt40-427-gt40x-820x460-d.jpe

 

Here is a link to a Magnifier/Trumpeter build here on the forum and if you look around you might find more, you might get some hints from there.

 

Edited by Force
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On 4/6/2021 at 6:01 PM, Matt Bacon said:

Thanks @Dann Tier those boxes are the “boot” or “trunk” demanded by the 1960s Le Mans regulations. Goodness know what you could put in them without cooking it, but hey... They are a “hangover” like the spare wheel (handy ballast if carefully placed) and the second “co-driver” seat which only a midget could fit in (see Porsche 917...)

best,

M.

LOL!!!!!

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