Ford F-3.5 COE

[Casey]

I had been looking for a Ron Cash Ford COE cab and hood for a while, and finally acquired one via eBay a few months ago, so it's now time to get the ball rolling on this project. The only issue is the cab isn't representative of any actual Ford F-series COE that I have found nor seen. It retains the narrower fenders from the F-1 through F-4(?) trucks, while the COE version should have wider fenders, grille surround, etc....hence the F-3.5 title. I've decided to use the cab as-is and not widen/correct the front clip, so I guess it will be a phantom of sorts.

The main parts I'm starting with are the aforementioned 1/25 Ron Cash Ford F-5 COE cab, hood, and front bumper,  the 1/25 W57 set of six 5-hole, 5-lug 20" dually wheels and 34" tires from Scenes Unlimited, frame rails, leaf springs, and cross members from the 1/24 Italeri GM-Opel Blitz, a few odd bits from the 1/25 IMC Dodge L-700, and various parts from the 1/25 Monogram '50 Ford F-1 pickup. A few parts from the 1/25 Revell '41 Chevy pickup are shown below in white, but I'm not sure I'll end up using any of them.

I'm still undecided regarding what will be resting upon the rear frame rails. A vintage cargo box is the leading candidate at this point, so, we'll see what happens as the truck itself progresses. Engine choice is something I need to decide on relatively quickly, too, but I will be keeping it in the Blue oval V8 family.

 

I did some preliminary research regarding the rearend, which needs to be larger and a more heavy-duty style, so I think the IMC Dodge L-700's Eaton 2-speed rear can be modified a bit to pass for the real thing:

 

Here's the IMC Dodge L-700 rearend, prior to sanding:

 

The rearend housing appears to have the correct overall shape and size, so I will only need to change the carrier assembly. At least the mounting surface against the rearend housing is flat, so that makes things a bit easier.

 

Edited March 21, 2021 by Casey

[Casey]

I did start working on the front wheels, as the outer lip/rim of one wheel was breaking away from the hoop. Not sure if this was related to the material or the thickness and strength limit of the 3D (master?) part itself, but the wheels are very nicely designed, so I'm okay with making some changes and/or upgrades in this case. I removed the outer lip, sanded the wheel center's face a bit smoother, and created a new wheel hoop with integral front and rear lips out of aluminium on the lathe. Still need to define the step in the outer lip bit more, but the main goal was getting the wheel center to fit properly inside the hoop, which was achieved. Still some sanding work to do on the wheel center for a better finish around the outer edge, then repeat for the second wheel. New wheel hoop on left, Scenes Unlimited supplied wheel on right:

Edited March 21, 2021 by Casey

[afx]

Good looking project.

[Bullybeef]

I’m liking what I see so far. 

[iamsuperdan]

1948 Ford F6 COE?

 

 

Whatever it is, I like it.

 

[Casey]

I removed the gear carrier entirely, sanded the mounting flange on the rearend housing flat, and found some pieces which are close to the correct shape and size for using building a passable carrier. The tan colored piece is likely from a military kit (not important which, really), but the O.D. of the flange is perfect for the side closest to the housing, so that'll be my starting point upon which I will build the rest. The other pieces shown may donate something small or nothing at all.

Step one:

 

Test fit of the tan piece, prior to thinning the flange. The excess to the right will be removed:

 

The other parts which may be used:

 

I also added the front crossmember, joining the frame rails, so at least the front frame width is set for now:

Edited March 21, 2021 by Casey

[Deuces ll]

🙂👍

[leafsprings]

Great to see you tackle a medium duty Casey. Looks like you have most of the necessary parts to build a very realistic COE. The cabovers did have a slightly wider front end, but I would just leave it as is also. You might want to enlarge  the fender openings  though.  Scene Unlimited wheels  will look great on this one.

[Zippi]

Looks like it will be a nice build.  I'll be following this one. 

[Casey]

On 3/21/2021 at 7:55 AM, leafsprings said:

You might want to enlarge  the fender openings  though.

I definitely plan to do just that. I measured the O.D. of the tires (1.425') this afternoon to determine the new wheel arch diameter, so I just need to find something the correct O.D, then get to sanding.

I finished making the second wheel hoop today, a match for the previously completed one. Unfortunately, I forgot to machine the wheel lip detail on the outer lip while the piece was still in the lathe, so the detail is a tiny bit eccentric, but I can live with it. Its as good and excuse as any to invest in a four-jaw chuck, something which is long overdue on my part.

I did some minor clean up on wheel number two's brake cooling slots, removed both the outer and inner lips, then sanded the wheel face smooth. A test fit inside the new hoop showed everything looked good, so both wheel centers were permanently joined to their hoops:

 

I pulled out the frame tried out a few cross members I had from various kits, and wasn't satisfied with any of them, so I'll make some out of styrene strips/shapes. The cross members (as well as most of the other parts) from the Italeri Opel Blitz are quite different from what would be used on American trucks, so those aren't of much use either.

I will probably create new hoops for the four rear wheels, too, as it's not difficult, I already have plenty of aluminum tubing in the correct diameter, and I like the extra strength/solidity it provides. The wheels from Scenes Unlimited are excellent as they come, so you won't need to do anything but use them-- this is solely a personal choice on my part. I can't say enough good things about the wheel and tires, honestly. I'm so glad Danny created these and offers them, as they are sorely needed.

Here's the starting point for the rear wheels:

[Casey]

Ready to roll. I used the rear brake drums (not shown) from the AMT Ford C-600 kit, which filled out the rear inner wheels nicely. Still need paint and some detail sanding, but, mostly there:

 

Edited April 26, 2021 by Casey

[Casey]

I built and mocked up the Ford 534 Super Duty engine from the AMT Ford C-Series kit, but felt it was a bit too heavy duty for this truck, so I started assembled the Ford FE-series V8 from the AMT '60 Ford Starliner, which feels much more proportionate. I will need to change the trans to something more truck like, but I think the FE will work better. Comparison shots of both engines:

 

I also decided to ditch the rearend from the IMC Dodge and use the Revell '41 Chevy rear instead, but have some future mods in mind. Spring-to-spring width matches the new rear much better, and while it might be a bit undersized, it is far better detailed. It feels more proportionate, and while I will still need to make it a two-speed style rearend, I think this is a better rear to start with compared to the IMC part. The Revell rear did have two sinkholes which I started filling, but here's a shot of the rearend and a rear leaf spring together:

Edited December 13, 2021 by Casey

[carsntrucks4you]

7 hours ago, Casey said:

I built and mocked up the Ford 534 Super Duty engine from the AMT Ford C-Series kit, but felt it was a bit too heavy duty for this truck, so I started assembled the Ford FE-series V8 from the AMT '60 Ford Starliner, which feels much more proportionate. I will need to change the trans to something more truck like, but I think the FE will work better. Comparison shots of both engines:

 

I also decided to ditch the rearend from the IMC Dodge and use the Revell '41 Chevy rear instead, but have some future mods in mind. Spring-to-spring width matches the new rear much better, and while it might be a bit undersized, it is far better detailed. It feels more proportionate, and while I will still need to make it a two-speed style rearend, I think this is a better rear to start with compared to the IMC part. The Revell rear did have two sinkholes which I started filling, but here's a shot of the rearend and a rear leaf spring together:

Regarding your engine choice I have a question. Based on the information that I have the 1951 F1 -F6 were powered by the old239 cui Flathead V8 100 Hp. While the F7/F8 had the 337cui FlatheadV8. For 1952 The F1-F6 were powered by the 239 flatty while the f7-f8 got the new Lincoln Y-Block  (279 cui for F7 and 317 cui for F8) . Why you are using the late model FE engine instead of Y-Block out of Revell's '57 Ford Sedan or Station Wagon? This seems for me more period correct if you want the Big Jobs or stay with the flatty for the narrow cab. Although you are build a fictive F model

 

[Casey]

2 hours ago, carsntrucks4you said:

Why you are using the late model FE engine instead of Y-Block out of Revell's '57 Ford Sedan or Station Wagon? This seems for me more period correct if you want the Big Jobs or stay with the flatty for the narrow cab. Although you are build a fictive F model

This isn't intended to be a factory stock truck, and I really like the well-designed FE-series V8 from the '60 Starliner, so the fact that I had one on hand made for an easy choice.

I don't think the fenders were widened on the resin cab as they should have been, so it fell somewhere between an F-3 and F-4 in my mind.

[Casey]

I removed the '60 Starliner's 4-speed manual, and separated the IMC Dodge L-700's truck trans from it's engine block, so now I have something which will work. Still have to add a bulge for the RH starter mount, but this'll do nicely, I think:

 

I also scrounged through my parts box for a deeper sump oil pan and found one, so that was glued in place, too.

 

 

 

 

[Lordmodelbuilder]

Looking good so far Casey!

[Casey]

Thanks, forward progress is being made. 😊

The engine is mostly assembled, and after a preliminary test fit, I found there's plenty of room underhood/cab. I wanted to get the engine and trans assembled as a unit for test fitting purposes, so with that done, I can set the frame width and permanently attach some crossmembers.