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1949 Talbot Lago T26C Belgium GP winner


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Hello,

  Last update from last year to get up to date on this build:

Exhaust:
2v2aehGPDxJ21ND.jpg

 

One of the most important and unique features of this car is the Wilson Pre-Selector transmission. I'm scratchbulding the selector.
2v2aZoe7FxJ21ND.jpg

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I may be biased but I think it looks a bit better than the kit's part
2v2aZpSmFxJ21ND.jpg

And here is the complete dash assembly.  Only the steering wheel is from the kit. Everything else is scratchbuilt.

2v2aQytbTxJ21ND.jpg

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That is basically where it was almost a year ago.  Next update will be up to date.

Thanks,
Ismael

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Hello,

Kit's radiator. Added a cap latch on top made from thin solder.  Dry brushed metallics.  This will barely be seen in the final model. Only the top of the cap will show.
Very small step but it is a re-start after almost a year.

2v2anyLhUxJ21ND.jpg

 

This will barely be seen, but I added some access panel lines to the transmission hump and weathered it a bit.  Hard to see but I added subtle shoe rub marks.
I want to be very clear this will not be a show car.

2v2an8ZQ8xJ21ND.jpg

 

Thanks,
Ismael

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  • 3 weeks later...

The Deeks wheels certainly improve the look of this model. I admire the other extra detailing being done too.

A set of Fernando Pinto wires would be a more costly way to go with the wheels.

Heller's Talbot Lego would make a nice companion to this mofe!.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hello,

Hopefully the last color coat...

2v2ayu2PnxJ21ND.jpg

 

 

After an extensive search of over a year, at the last minute I finally found reference to the proper location of the pedals!  Glad I did because my initial assumption was wrong.  It has been corrected.   The clutch pedal is on the far left all by itself, and the accelerator and brake pedals are very close together to the right. This will not be seen at all but you know I'm not normal. 

2v2ayeunnxJ21ND.jpg

 

2v2ayeuqqxJ21ND.jpg

 

 

Thanks,

Ismael

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Hello,

  Decals are done.  Despite been a simple decal job that always bothers me.   Indycals decals worked perfectly.  I'll wait a day or two before putting a coat of clear over them.
Finally found a use for that 8x8 timber  :) 
The nose decal required some micro sol and some massaging.
 

2v2aybNpqxJ21ND.jpg

 

2v2aybNtGxJ21ND.jpg

 

Thanks,
Ismael

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hello,

  For the windshield, I cut a small piece of acetate, shaped to form, cut 3 strips of the smallest half round stock I had and did 2 brackets from flatten solder.
2v2a5vf6MxJ21ND.jpg

This is how it is looking now.  It will eventually be tilted back as per references.  Dash gap will also be addressed.

2v2a5vftzxJ21ND.jpg

 

The hood on this car is held by 4 inverted V shape elastic straps like seen on this reference drawing.  Most likely a bungee type cord. 
2v2a5w9mMxJ21ND.jpg
So you take a piece of solder,

1. Flatten it
2. Cut to size
3. Shape it
4. Make the V with more solder and flatten the tip
5. Crimp together
2v2a5wUPoxJ21ND.jpg

And repeat 3 more times :)



Also, the gas cap on the kit is a joke, like pretty much everything else but the main body and steering wheel.  So I machined my own.  Flattened a piece of solder that will eventually be the top latch.

2v2a5wUi3xJ21ND.jpg

Entering the home stretch boys!  It seems I WILL finish a model in 2022!!!
 

Finally, here is a quick video on how it looks at about 80% done

 

Thanks,

Ismael

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