Need guidance ungluing built vintage kit

[ismaelg]

Hello,

  Inspired by Pascal's beautiful Bugatti Type35B, I want to build one. The problem is that the only "affordable" 1/24 model is the old Monogram kit and it is going for ridiculous prices unbuilt.  So I gambled and bought a "started but complete" kit.  I thought it would be partially glued  or some parts painted.  However, I just received it and it is almost completely assembled!  It seems to be fairly carefully and nicely glued together, but not painted.  I can see why this is popular. It is a gorgeous kit! 
I'm here wondering how to carefully take it apart. Any ideas?

Thanks,

[robdebie]

I had a similar problem, and I discovered a method to go from photo 1 to photos 2 and 3:

It started out as an attempt at fast & thorough paint stripping, but as a side effect the whole kit disassembled itself! The process is described on my website:

https://robdebie.home.xs4all.nl/models/ultrasonic.htm

I haven't heard of other trying it, so I cannot report more user experiences. No guarantee it will work on your kit!

Rob

[TarheelRick]

I have had fairly good luck with the freezer method.  Wet the model pretty well, place into a zip-lock bag, and freeze it for a couple days.  Doesn't work all the time, but it is a less destructive attempt than a hammer and chisel.

[Ace-Garageguy]

The problem, of course, is that if the model was well assembled with solvent cement, the parts will be literally "welded" or melted together.

The freezing method works, when it works, because small amounts of water will find their way into seams that aren't fully glued.

Water expands when it freezes, as any elementary school child should know, so it might force apart the weaker glued seams.

Weak seams also result if the "chrome" or paint hasn't been thoroughly removed from parts prior to gluing.

In this case, very gentle prying with the tip of an Xacto chisel blade works very well. Light tapping on the handle with a small jeweler's hammer may expedite the process.

Kits assembled with non-solvent glues will also usually respond to this treatment. EDIT: Sometimes CA glues will break very easily, sometimes not.

But unfortunately, if solvent-glued seams are good and strong, nothing but physical cutting will break them.

Narrower seams may be worried apart rather like scribing door-openings...repeatedly tracing the seam with a sharp Xacto #11 blade until you break through.

Heavier seams can sometimes be cut very carefully with a modeler's saw. I prefer the photo-etched blades for this, as they're considerably thinner than the standard "razor" saws, and do less damage. NOTE: Carefully separated parts using this method may be restored to their original thickness sometimes by gluing on .010" styrene sheet stock, and filing flat with a piece of 180-grit or finer sandpaper attached firmly to a small dead-flat piece of glass.

That's about it.

Work carefully, slowly, and good luck.

 

Edited April 2, 2021 by Ace-Garageguy

[robdebie]

I have a 'working thesis' that solvent glue results in a brittle joint. Our model plastic is 'high-impact polystyrene' (HIPS) that behaves totally different from pure polystyrene, called 'general purpose polystyrene' (GPPS). GPPS is clear, and if you ever dropped a CD case, you know how brittle it is. HIPS has tiny particles mixed in, consider them rubber particles. These particles stops cracks from growing, and create a totally different material behaviour. You can drop a car body, and nothing will happen, most of the time.

I have the impression that in a HIPS to HIPS joint, made with solvent glue, the contact area is pure polystyrene, since the rubber particles are not dissolved. So you get HIPS-GPPS-HIPS. And that GPPS layer creates possibilities for breaking the joint. It seems that freezer cold does the trick, and my own method of using ultrasound.

Rob

[Plowboy]

I would strip it with your chosen method first. You'd be surprised at how many pieces sometimes comes apart.

Then hit the remaining joints with Tamiya Extra Thin Cement and pry apart. The cement will usually soften the joint and make it easier to get apart. Past that, you're going to have to break out the photo etch saw blades.

[ismaelg]

Thank you all!   I don't have an ultrasonic cleaning machine but that sounds very interesting and promising.  I'll check around for one of those.  I will start with the freezer method and see how far it goes.  I'll keep you updated on the progress.

Thanks!