Revell visible v8

[johnfin]

Any tricks to making this kit actually work? Seems like the valve springs are too stiff causing the lifters to jamb up at the cam. I have the newer non-motorized crank version. Anyone make parts to convert to motorized version with lights.

[Matt Bacon]

Sounds like you already have it built, but if you can take it apart, then get some silicone “Plastic Parts Grease” from a bike shop and use that everywhere. It needs to be the specific stuff, because other lubricant may weaken the kit parts and cause them to break.

best,

M.

[johnfin]

no way to lube. Thats not the problem. Too much force on lifters. Pushes them past the lobe on the lifter and causes them to jamb up.

[unclescott58]

Have built both the motorized and non-motorized versions of the kit. Never have the problem your referring. Have had plenty of problems with the kits over the years. Just not that one. 

[64Comet404]

You may want to check for a clock repair shop or similar in your area, and see if you can source some lighter valve springs for your build. Taking apart old ball-point pens for spring donors may be another way to solve the problem.

[johnfin]

Even with the better fitting lifters, there are no cam bearings so the cam flops around and jambs the lifters. 

[unclescott58]

I'm wondering if you've maybe have over done it on the petroleum jelly on the cam? In the ones I've built, I never put anything on the cam. I don't recall it be requested in the instructions. Also, did you paint your lifters gold? Adding paint to those parts may be part of your problem.

I've built four Visiable V-8s since 1971 (about one a decade). Following the instructions exactly, all four came out fine, and worked reasonably well until through plastic fatigue caused something brake. They are not the greatest or smoothest running things in the world. But, over all they've worked fine. 

If your looking to build a really nice "Visiable V-8." I recommend picking up Franzis' Mustang V8-Motor kit. It's a bit on the spendy side. But, it is a beautiful kit. It runs as smooth as silk. Requires no glue or lubricant to build. And like the original version of the Visiable V-8, it has a electric motor to move the internals. And spark plugs that light up. Somewhere in a thread I posted here, about a year ago, you should be able to see pictures of the kit. By far superior to the old Renwal/Revell Visiable V-8. I was so impressed with it, I also bought and built their Porsche 911 motor. Plus Franzis' Mustang V8-Motor kit it represents a Mustang 289 HiPro motor. Where the old Renwal/Revell is based on Studebaker 's V8. A good motor. But, not as "cool" as a Mustang 289 HiPro.

[Tom Geiger]

1 hour ago, unclescott58 said:

I'm wondering if you've maybe have over done it on the petroleum jelly on the cam?

I have a large scale slant six that was caked with an ancient Vaseline. It was quite a chore to get it all clean.  In the end it was missing quite a few parts.. pretty much a parts kit.

[johnfin]

Its a geometry issue. The flat side of the cam comes around and wedges the lifter. Doesnt matter how much goop is on the cam.

[Wolfangel]

They one thing I did on mine...and it helped a lot.  And this depends on if you can get it back out.  Is sand the mold seams off of every cam lobe....and make sure it it smooth.  The lifter will get hung up on that and cause problems.  Also make you don't "flat spot" the cam lobes.  Make sure they stay rounded.  I used an oil that is made for slot cars, its light and doesn't cause problems.  All of that makes a huge difference.

[bisc63]

First thing I noticed, too, is the flat spot on the cam lobe(s). That's a pretty sharp demarcation between the side of the lobe and the top of the lobe.

[peteski]

On 5/6/2021 at 7:49 AM, unclescott58 said:

Also, did you paint your lifters gold? Adding paint to those parts may be part of your problem.

To me it looks like he replaced the plastic parts with scratch-built brass lifter and pushrod.  Looks like pushrod is a brass rod soldered inside a larger diameter brass tube (lifter).  Then the end of the lifter that is in contact with the cam lobe is beveled (usually lifters have flat bottom).

Edited May 10, 2021 by peteski

[JohnU]

On 5/10/2021 at 2:01 AM, peteski said:

To me it looks like he replaced the plastic parts with scratch-built brass lifter and pushrod.  Looks like pushrod is a brass rod soldered inside a larger diameter brass tube (lifter).  Then the end of the lifter that is in contact with the cam lobe is beveled (usually lifters have flat bottom).

Glad I came across this thread! So, a while ago I bought the original Renwal kit to build again like when I was a kid from EBay. Long story short, it didn’t have all the clear engine block parts. Everything else to make a running model was there and worked! I bought the Revell kit from HL with 40% coupon (before they discontinued) to complete it. After seeing this thread, I compared the parts in question here and found what might be the problem. I posted pictures for reference. The first picture is the Renwal part sprue the second picture is the Revell part and the third is a side by side comparison. Looks like Revell screwed up the mold and rounded off the tops of the lifters! This also added material to the hight as well! Did a measurement of a random part from each sprue and found Revell added approximately .020 in. to the lifter! Renwal is .550 in. Revell is. .570 in. at the lifter end! The rod end looks to be about the same. I suppose if you’re careful about sizing the length of the total rod and lifter it shouldn’t matter. Just thought the radiused lifter was curious. Was Revell trying to make an improvement? Think I might stick with the flat Renwal parts. I remember my original build when I was a kid worked! Although, my Dad did help with the electrical part!😜