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*1966 Chevy Nova Pro Street (amt)*


Zippi

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I decided to open the box on my next project but I'm not going to start the build just yet.  Just checking things out.  On my last couple builds I've waiting to paint the body last.  I'm going to reverse the process and start painting the body's first.  I'm still working on my paint skills and I'm in the process of doing some paint/gloss testing.  Until I get this all worked out the 66 Nova will be on hold.  I found a pic of a 66 & 67 Nova online that I really like the color so I have a bottle of Ceramcoat 'Bridgeport Grey" Acrylic paint that I may be using.  Might add a little black to darken it up.  I also added a review on my YouTube channel.  Anyone who has built this kit before I'd like to hear the pro's and con's.

   

 

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Edited by Zippi
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Hi Bob, I like the reference photos. Black trim with grey looks cool, or maybe a few coats of smoke on the chrome... I haven’t built the kit from the box. I have used portions of the chassis on one build, the body went a low detail resin chassis as a slammer build. It’s an older kit that will likely require some extra cleanup, but they are great looking cars.

Cheers, Steve

 

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Zippi-

Great looking 1:1 you found. Nice to see someone else building a similar Nova. I looked online and found one I like. I'm thinking of building a turboed LS motor for mine (if I can come up with an LS). 

My Nova is a resin post sedan. I sprayed the chrome with Tamiya Smoke. Can't wait to see yours.

Later-

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14 hours ago, Modlbldr said:

Zippi-

Great looking 1:1 you found. Nice to see someone else building a similar Nova. I looked online and found one I like. I'm thinking of building a turboed LS motor for mine (if I can come up with an LS). 

My Nova is a resin post sedan. I sprayed the chrome with Tamiya Smoke. Can't wait to see yours.

Later-

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Wow Tom, that is a super cool looking Sedan. Great paint!!

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4 hours ago, TransAmMike said:

Wow Tom, that is a super cool looking Sedan. Great paint!!

 

2 hours ago, Zippi said:

What Mike said Tom.  Man.....why can't I lay down a paint job like that ☺

Thanks guys! Much appreciated. I have a WIP thread going on it.

Later-

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I cleaned up the body pretty good so I could spray it with Rust-Oleum flat primer this morning.  Now I can see a few more area's that need to be cleaned up.  Also got the distributor drilled out and plug wires glued in. 

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Edited by Zippi
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3 hours ago, Snake45 said:

That body has a couple nasty molding lines but looks like you got them off. Drive on! 

Yeah...at the rear of the side windows.  It was pretty bad.

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2 hours ago, Snake45 said:

Since you want it in gray, I'd start laying on the Rustoleum clear lacquer right over that nice even primer. Six to ten coats should do it--my bet would be eight. 

I agree with ya Richard.  Primer seems to come out so much smoother than a lot of top coat jobs.

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Never thought about spraying the Rust-Oleum gloss over the primer.  Not really the color I was going for but that's some food for thought.  I think I've made up my mind to murder it out.  I really like the look.

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Edited by Zippi
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I got some of the engine parts cleaned up and painted.  I thought I would scribe/wash the panel lines this time and see how it turns out on this model.  

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Edited by Zippi
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I got the engine put together.  I always seem to have a problem after drilling the holes in the heads of getting the plug wires to stay in the holes.  I end up getting more glue on the wire and head than needed.  Then I have to go back and touch up the wires, heads, and headers. Anyone have a good way of getting plug wires to stay in?

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The engine looks great. A thought on the plug wire holes in the engine. I will usually try the wire I'm using for the plug wires in the holes in my drill bit holder until I find the one that they just fit in. After painting the engine the wires will be real snug but you can use the bit to open the hole just enough for the wire to fit. Plug wires sizes can vary between suppliers so this has worked best for myself. 

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4 hours ago, espo said:

The engine looks great. A thought on the plug wire holes in the engine. I will usually try the wire I'm using for the plug wires in the holes in my drill bit holder until I find the one that they just fit in. After painting the engine the wires will be real snug but you can use the bit to open the hole just enough for the wire to fit. Plug wires sizes can vary between suppliers so this has worked best for myself. 

Thanks for the info David.

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4 hours ago, espo said:

The engine looks great. A thought on the plug wire holes in the engine. I will usually try the wire I'm using for the plug wires in the holes in my drill bit holder until I find the one that they just fit in. After painting the engine the wires will be real snug but you can use the bit to open the hole just enough for the wire to fit. Plug wires sizes can vary between suppliers so this has worked best for myself. 

Ditto David. Usually for me at least the holes still wind up being too big. I use super glue so just a small drop on the end of the wire holds it in in a few seconds.

And Bob, great looking engine my friend.👌

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2 hours ago, TransAmMike said:

Ditto David. Usually for me at least the holes still wind up being too big. I use super glue so just a small drop on the end of the wire holds it in in a few seconds.

And Bob, great looking engine my friend.👌

Thanks Mike.  So....or you drilling just deep enough for the plug wire to bottom out in the head or through the head like I am?

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Ok.....I just painted the Chevy Nova body and hood with the Ceramcoat Bridgeport Grey inside my makeshift spray booth outside.  It did a good job of blocking the wind and the paint seem to lay down a little better this time around.  Got a little bit of trash that blew in on the body.  Should I let it dry, sand, and spray another coat?  The door gaps are still dark this time so I guess I scribe'd the gaps deep enough.  

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Your door lines look better now. This is how you do it: Blacken the gaps before paint, and then leave them alone. 

For the future: Don't scribe the tulip pane lines (below the backlight) so deep, and don't darken them at all. This is a welded seam, not a movable panel, and should be seen as body color. Maybe you can still get some body color in there with a brush or something. Drive on! B)

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