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Got some more work done.  The basic construction is done.  The waterway is complete to the basket where a deck gun would be mounted.  The base of the snorkel has been screwed to the bed of the new body from the bottom.  The rest of the base work can now be done knowing that it fits snugly into place.

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To get an idea of how the model will look I set the new body behind another Mack L and then took the photo at eye level.  The boom appears to be lower than the beacon on the top of the Springfield windshield but I think that is just perspective with the boom being in the background.  Getting closer to paint time but not yet.😉

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Wow, that’s a whole lotta brasswork! I think you’re crossing over to the Meccano side of modeling, or more correctly model engineering! Looks like very precise fit of the many parts, such neat soldering and everything works too, pretty fine work!

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13 hours ago, hct728(Bob) said:

Wow, that’s a whole lotta brasswork! I think you’re crossing over to the Meccano side of modeling, or more correctly model engineering! Looks like very precise fit of the many parts, such neat soldering and everything works too, pretty fine work!

Yes, a lot of brass but it has been a fun project so far.  Figuring out what to solder and where has been a bit of a challenge but it has worked.  A small amount of work left to do such as the braces for the long sections of waterway.  Then I think it is close to being ready for some paint.  The biggest problem I have had with brass is that it does not hold paint that well.  It tends to chip and wear easily.  I've tried etching primer but that is not foolproof.  I do have to plate the two hydraulic pistons but I have the plating solution for that.  

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6 hours ago, Chariots of Fire said:

The biggest problem I have had with brass is that it does not hold paint that well.  It tends to chip and wear easily.  I've tried etching primer but that is not foolproof. 

Ever try etching with vinegar, did it not help give the surface some tooth? That was a thing with brass model railroad engines back in the day. Been disappointed with self-etching primer myself when used on Hubley diecast kits

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DUDE!!!! You have my attention with this one... Absolutely amazing work... Not only is it 1/50 scale, but you have tackled a snorkel unit in BRASS!!!  Man,... I am constantly amazed at your work.... I love die cast, so you're really speaking my language with this baby... Awesome!!!!!

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Two last items were needed to complete my end of the project.  Two Crouse-Hind lights in 1/50 scale were needed along with one more Deitz light for the platform.  A master spotlight was turned from aluminum rod and a mold was then made of RTV.  Two resin castings were made.  The light bases are made of brass.  Bare metal foil was placed over the lens and trimmed.  Then each light was primed and given a coat of aluminum paint.  After the paint dried the BMF was peeled off to show the translucent (casting resin) lens.  A piece of thread was added to the rear of each light for the electric cord.  The Deitz light was made from 1/8" diameter brass rod.  The base and light itself were turned separately and then soldered together.  The light was painted silver with a white dot for the lens.  it will be mounted on the corner of the platform opposite the one already made.  

The spotlights are mounted on the pumper just to show the relative size.  On the final rig the deck gun would not be there allowing more room for each light.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Yesterday and today I worked on the front bumper using the smashed one as a guide.  I was able to glue the pieces back together for the size and shape but there was no way to attach it to the front of the truck.  These Corgi rigs have been around a while but it is amazing how brittle the plastic is that was used in the construction.  It reminds me of the old bakelite stuff that was used in model trains back in the day.

I made the replacement bumper from brass sheet and strip stock.  The strip stock was annealed to soften it some for bending and was curved using a template from the old bumper.  Then the bent strip was soldered to a piece of thin sheet stock.  Once soldered together the edges were ground away to final shape and size.

On top of the bumper I put a piece of stainless treadplate given to me by a fellow modeler.  It is wonderful stuff but is ultra thin and only cuts with a pair of aircraft type shears.  I cut away as much as I could without distorting it and then used the dremel and cutoff wheel to eat away at the edges.  The final shape was done with a file.  This material is peculiar in that it does not bond to CA or epoxy.  I tried both and it just came off.  I finally settled on contact cement and that seemed to work, although I did have a corner pull up a bit.  A small amount of contact cement was eased between the brass top and the stainless and then it was clamped until set.

The face of the Mack bumper has three chrome bars that run horizontally to the outside edges.  Small brass wire was soldered to the bumper face to represent these bars.  The bumper was given a coat of etching primer and then BMF was put over the entire bumper face.  Next was a coat of red paint.  After the paint was dry I removed the paint from the bars to reveal the BMF.  They look decent as chrome strips like the real one.

Having to make up the bumper, it was a good opportunity to salvage the two hooks from the old bumper, attach them after holes were drilled in the top of the bumper and then make up a Federal Q2B siren.  That was turned from aluminum rod and with some decals for the slots in the outside of the siren and a decal face it is a good representation (IMHO!!).  Lastly some 3M white tape was added to the sides of the platform to represent the heat shield.

With the work done, the rig will go back to the builder's shops for finish of the body and to add some other details of the Mack Snorkel.

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