my 3d printed projects

[my66s55]

The front clip is next. This first pic is the original. Note the lip around the edge of the part. This lip has to be deleted in order to thicken the part for printing. The middle pic is the part after fixing and eliminating the lip. The third print has the walls thickened and is ready for printing. I have found that 1.7 millilitres is the best thickness for body parts.The reason I use individual parts is that it is the best and easiest way to thicken the car.

[my66s55]

The original file was a Coronet. I want to create a Custom Royal Lancer. To do that, I need to make files of the Tail fins, the Custom Royal Lancer name on the front fenders and two chrome strips that go on the rear panel below the trunk lid.Notice the file I used to create the name.

 

[my66s55]

Let's take a look to see what we've accomplished. Then do a quick test print.

[charlie8575]

On 6/6/2021 at 1:09 PM, my66s55 said:

Sounds like an interesting proposition Charlie. Please keep me posted as to the details.

If you'd like, give me your e-Mail, and we can discuss. Also, I tried to order through Facebook one of your Polyhead A-blocks. If you can e-Mail me the details on how to order, I'd appreciate it. I can use at least two or three of them.

Charlie Larkin

[my66s55]

5 hours ago, charlie8575 said:

If you'd like, give me your e-Mail, and we can discuss. Also, I tried to order through Facebook one of your Polyhead A-blocks. If you can e-Mail me the details on how to order, I'd appreciate it. I can use at least two or three of them.

Charlie Larkin

crai2773@bellsouth,net. 

 

[MeatMan]

19 hours ago, my66s55 said:

Let's take a look to see what we've accomplished. Then do a quick test print.

Good stuff Doug!

What printer are you using?

[my66s55]

My next creation is the frame. First I find a frame chart for the convertible and take screen shots of the top and side. These I import into a new Blender file. The top goes into the top view and the side into the appropriate side view. Then they are lined up and the drawing begins. I always start with the top view.

It's always important to search for reference pic's. In this case, I found a 55 Plymouth frame for sale that had 13 different views. Plymouth, Dodge same basic frame.

 

[my66s55]

33 minutes ago, MeatMan said:

Good stuff Doug!

What printer are you using?

I will only use Phrozen printers. It's a Taiwan company run by 3 Taiwanese engineers. The printer in this case is the 2018 XL I upgraded it from a 2k rgb lcd to a 4k mono lcd last June. Mono lcds let more light through and cure the resin faster. This speed the print time up by i/3 rd or more. The 57 DeSoto took 15 hrs at 2k and 11 hrs 4k.

[my66s55]

Frames done. Next comes the front suspension.

[Bainford]

Wow. Some pretty impressive stuff going on here.

[my66s55]

I used the service manual to find pics to make the upper and lower control arms. Here are 2 of them.

Here's the finished parts.

 

[Spex84]

Fascinating stuff...I'm impressed by the size of the parts you're able to print!

I've also encountered the difficulties of free 3D models being absolutely trash from a geometry perspective. Many of the free models out there were either created many years ago by hobbyists, or stolen from video games and modified over the years for other purposes (sometimes with dubious workmanship).

That Dodge mesh has some proportional issues, but at least it looks like it was in the ballpark!

I really want to do a Stude pickup, but the time required to model, support, and print the parts is pretty intimidating, especially considering I'd have to print the body in small chunks and then assemble them.

 

 

[my66s55]

Adding a steering knuckle, shock and coil spring makes the front suspension.

 

[misterNNL]

I admire to bring of the short-sided opinion when 3-d models first started being shown that this not going to work well for finished models. The stuff looked like laminated sheets with rough edges that would takes forever and a day to smooth out. Today's stuff has certainly evolved into some very interesting and very buildable offerings. The language is completely foreign to me so thankfully there are those here who can make it all work.my how things have changed!

[my66s55]

So now the body has been corrected. The frame and suspension have been done. I put my 55 Dodge 270 hemi  in to help for positioning the next step. Up coming next is under the hood files

Edited June 18, 2021 by my66s55

[bill-e-boy]

As an owner of a real deal 56 Dodge CRL coupe you have got the details very accurate. The 55 and 56 chassis were the same but the convertible has an X member for additional strength 

The front body mount is a U shaped piece welded to the front cross member and does not have a wedge shaped tunnel that carries on to the back of the cross member that is depicted in one of you renderings

I have attached an image of that area and of the spring pocket area of the front cross member

The front end shown under the Dodge chassis is a Jag XJ6 that I installed in place of the original - a long story that came about but it is on the road now and it is awesome

 

[my66s55]

On 6/18/2021 at 4:25 PM, bill-e-boy said:

As an owner of a real deal 56 Dodge CRL coupe you have got the details very accurate. The 55 and 56 chassis were the same but the convertible has an X member for additional strength 

The front body mount is a U shaped piece welded to the front cross member and does not have a wedge shaped tunnel that carries on to the back of the cross member that is depicted in one of you renderings

I have attached an image of that area and of the spring pocket area of the front cross member

The front end shown under the Dodge chassis is a Jag XJ6 that I installed in place of the original - a long story that came about but it is on the road now and it is awesome

 

Thanks for the heads up.The bottom pic will help me a lot.

[my66s55]

I found a site with a 56 Dodge that was being built for Trans Am racing. There are pics of the sheet metal for under the hood that gave me great insight on how to create the needed parts.

This one worked well to make the horse collar.

 

[gui_tarzan]

I think what you're doing is a fantastic thing, but that '64 Buick Skylark convertible is a barrel of errors. I have that one too and I'm just starting to try to figure out how to correct it. There isn't a panel or edge on it that's correct. 

[my66s55]

1 hour ago, gui_tarzan said:

I think what you're doing is a fantastic thing, but that '64 Buick Skylark convertible is a barrel of errors. I have that one too and I'm just starting to try to figure out how to correct it. There isn't a panel or edge on it that's correct. 

I won't be using that 64 Skylark for my project. I have a raw scan I got off Sketchfab.

 

 

[bisc63]

Oh man, I really want a '64 or '65 Buick Skylark model. SUCH a handsome car! I hope you do one...

[my66s55]

Of all the cars I have files for, I don't have one for a 55 Plymouth. I did find a raw scan for a 56 4 dr that I'm using that to create some parts for the 55. This is what I did over the last few days.  

Take the scan.

Cut out that area to make the trunk lid.

Trace the needed part.

Subdivide it, smooth it and you get this. It's only half,but that's all I need.

Thus, you can see how I'll create the above Skylark.

Edited June 23, 2021 by my66s55

[bill-e-boy]

Here is a shot of the firewall. The brake booster is a Chebby item and the chassis at this point has been modified for the Jag XJ6 front end

And a shot of drivers side chassis with motor in place - not original 315 Poly but an LA360

 

[sbk]

Nice work! My apologies if you already mentioned it, but what program are you using for design?

Thanks,
Steve

[my66s55]

On 6/23/2021 at 2:37 PM, bill-e-boy said:

Here is a shot of the firewall. The brake booster is a Chebby item and the chassis at this point has been modified for the Jag XJ6 front end

And a shot of drivers side chassis with motor in place - not original 315 Poly but an LA360

 

Thank you very much. Any help is graciously appreciated. There isn't enough pics on the internet to fully cover this subject.