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Decals shattering


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I am working on a 1986? 87? Monte Carlo SS, aeroback. Bought the kit probably in 1999 or 2000. It has been stored in the house the entire time. I went to apply the instrument panel decal last night. It slid off the backing just fine, but when I went to tweak the position with a toothpick, the decal just started falling apart. Every time I touched it, a small piece would break off. This has me really concerned for all the long pinstripe decals in this kit.

Is there anything I can put on the decals, or do different, to make these decals work? I did not use any solvent or setting solution. I've built a couple other kits of the same vintage from my small stash and this is the first decal issue I have had.

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8 minutes ago, NOBLNG said:

I think this is the stuff you want. I’m not sure how well it works though. I used it once on some really old decals and they were still brittle.

4B1C2DAF-AAA7-4064-860D-D10A9A71D7D4.jpeg

This is the right answer. 

They also have a product called SUPERFILM, which is what I use. I don't know if they changed the name, have two different products, or have the same thing in two names, but SUPERFILM has always worked for me. 

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1 minute ago, Oldcarfan27 said:

you will have to trim the images close to use them.

Yes, but DO NOT trim the decals before you use whatever clear you use. It will seal the edges and make it almost impossible to get the decal off the backing. Don't ask me how I know this. 

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11 minutes ago, ksnow said:

Thanks guys, looks like a shopping trip is in the future. Not that I NEEDED an excuse. 

Now what else to buy to justify the shipping?

  • White glue
  • Super glue
  • Super glue accelerator
  • Super glue debonder
  • Sanding sticks
  • Sprue cutter
  • Budget brushes
  • Hobby knife
  • Tweezers
  • Assorted sandpaper
  • Model cement
  • Filler putty
  • Paint set
  • Masking tape
  • Thinner
  • Scissors
  • Decal tweezers
  • Toothpicks
  • Clothespins
  • Rubber bands
  • Spray paint
  • Respirator mask
  • 😁
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1 hour ago, Snake45 said:

This is the right answer. 

They also have a product called SUPERFILM, which is what I use. I don't know if they changed the name, have two different products, or have the same thing in two names, but SUPERFILM has always worked for me. 

Snake, looked at their web site and can't find any product called super film. All I can find is the liquid decal film. Any hints on where you get yours?

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I used to get it from Squadron Shop but they're now OOB. The first bottle lasted a couple decades, and there was actually plenty left but the bottle split. Couple years ago I ordered two more bottles from, I think, Sprue Bothers or someone else I got some airplane/military stuff from. You might try Megahobby or Tower Hobbies, too. If you can't find Superfilm anymore, the liquid decal film is PROBABLY the same thing, but I've never used it so couldn't so testify in a court of law. ;)

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1 hour ago, NOBLNG said:
  • White glue
  • Super glue
  • Super glue accelerator
  • Super glue debonder
  • Sanding sticks
  • Sprue cutter
  • Budget brushes
  • Hobby knife
  • Tweezers
  • Assorted sandpaper
  • Model cement
  • Filler putty
  • Paint set
  • Masking tape
  • Thinner
  • Scissors
  • Decal tweezers
  • Toothpicks
  • Clothespins
  • Rubber bands
  • Spray paint
  • Respirator mask
  • 😁

Gee, is that a big enough list????....🤪😁

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10 minutes ago, Deuces ll said:

Gee, is that a big enough list????....🤪😁

Just trying to be helpful...shipping costs can be outrageous on single items.😬 It’s what keeps me from buying models on e-bay.🤨

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1 hour ago, Snake45 said:

If you can't find Superfilm anymore, the liquid decal film is PROBABLY the same thing, but I've never used it so couldn't so testify in a court of law. ;)

I have these two bottles. The Superfilm is a few decades old and the Liquid Decal Film is recent. I have a feeling they are the same stuff. The application instructions are the same, the liquid in both bottles has the same consistency and look, and they both have a slight alcohol smell. Looking at the bottles, It appears that the company name has changed, one being marketed by Krasel Industries and the other by Microscale Industries. Perhaps that's when the product name changed.

I've only used it once and didn't have much luck. It may be that the decals were beyond saving, but more likely, being my first try, I applied it much too lightly.

53E50482-730C-487E-B886-53EDC73F0686.jpeg

Edited by Bainford
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if the decals are still on the intact sheet another way to fix them is to spray the entire sheet with a wet coat of lacquer thinner. The basically remelts the clear film areas on the decal sheet. I had good luck with that method.

The Liquid decal film also works well, but I usually brush on 3 or 4 coats (it dries very thin).  This stuff is basically a type of clear lacquer that uses alcohol as solvent, so airbrushing any clear lacquer also giver satisfactory results.  But Liquid Decal Film dries very flexible since it is the same stuff decal manufacturers use as the decal's clear film.

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12 hours ago, NOBLNG said:
  • White glue
  • Super glue
  • Super glue accelerator
  • Super glue debonder
  • Sanding sticks
  • Sprue cutter
  • Budget brushes
  • Hobby knife
  • Tweezers
  • Assorted sandpaper
  • Model cement
  • Filler putty
  • Paint set
  • Masking tape
  • Thinner
  • Scissors
  • Decal tweezers
  • Toothpicks
  • Clothespins
  • Rubber bands
  • Spray paint
  • Respirator mask
  • 😁

You also forgot - more model kits!!

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13 hours ago, ksnow said:

Thanks guys, looks like a shopping trip is in the future. Not that I NEEDED an excuse. 

Now what else to buy to justify the shipping?

the instrument panel gauges i would have trimmed them to fit tight and put a couple drops of white glue and left them on the paper.  Tooth picks will tare decals. When I apply decals on the body I put about 3 drops of white glue in the water and keep your surface wet and move them with your finger. Store all your decals in an air tight container like rubber maid containers…

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I agree with using the Micro Scale decal film. It works, as does the clear lacquer method. Tamiya can be a little hot so be careful with it. As an additional tip, I use a small flat brush about 1/8" wide to position decals. Wet it and it'll carry a drop of water onto the decal. Helps the decal float and move easily. Use the tip of the brush against the edge of the decal for positioning. I use square or wedge shaped make-up sponges to wick the excess water away. Also I use round make-up sponges held between my thumb and middle finger to roll over the top of the decal to help it mold into place and wick any remaining water away. I build race cars so I work with lots of decals.

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Thank you very much for all the tips and replies. The decal solution is on the way, with a few other goodies. The kit comes with 3 or 4 sets of pinstripes, so I can test on the colors I don't plan on using.

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9 hours ago, 10camaross said:

I built that kit recently, I think I put 4 coats of testers decal bonder on the sheet to get the decals to stay together. I tested one of the other colour of stripes in between each coat.  That sheet was fragile even when it was new.

Good to know. Thanks.

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