Air Brushing

[bluestringer]

About 40 years ago I purchased a Testors air brush, it's the plastic job where the bottle clips onto the front and air blows across the nozzle to pull the paint out. I didn't have a compressor at the time so I used canned air. I did fairly well with it, painting several NASCAR kits I was doing at the time. I decided the other day to get another air brush to experiment with. I didn't want to spend a lot of money on one so I got a cheap one at Harbor Freight. I've practiced some with it, but can't seem to do much but make a mess. I'm using a Sears 3 gallon 125PSI compressor, I've tried pressure from 20-50 but nothing seems to work. The cheap brush has some adjustment but I can't seem to get anything to work well. I'm using cheap acrylic paint from walmart, thinning with water at about 50/50. I got to looking through my junk and found the old Testors brush, hooked it up and tried it, it sprayed good, but the paint on the test model looked bad. I guess I need a better brush, paint and more practice. Any suggestions. 

[DPNM]

Really hard for anyone to give you any kind of an answer. Is your AB single or double action? When you are making "a mess" what is it doing, or not doing? Information would help.

When you plan to purchase another one you may want to check this out first:

https://paulbudzik.com/tools-techniques/Airbrushing/choosing-right-airbrush-scale-models.html

I'd suggest at least these two:

• Paint for Scale Models
• Choosing the Right Airbrush for Scale Models

Edited July 11, 2021 by DPNM

[FLHCAHZ]

I use a HarborFreight airbrush and spray about 25 psi.  I cut my paint with windshield washer fluid.  I get decent results 

[FLHCAHZ]

Just now, FLHCAHZ said:

I use a HarborFreight airbrush and spray about 25 psi.  I cut my paint with windshield washer fluid.  I get decent results 

I have found the the paint needs to b real thin

[bluestringer]

19 minutes ago, DPNM said:

Really hard for anyone to give you any kind of an answer. Is your AB single or double action? When you are making "a mess" what is it doing, or not doing? Information would help.

When you plan to purchase another one you may want to check this out first:

https://paulbudzik.com/tools-techniques/Airbrushing/choosing-right-airbrush-scale-models.html

I'd suggest at least these two:

• Paint for Scale Models
• Choosing the Right Airbrush for Scale Models

It's either spraying too thin or too thick, I can't seem to get it adjusted. When it looks like it going to be ok, it pools in detail parts and is too thin in smooth areas. I'm trying to thin it to be about like milk. The AB is single action, but does have some adjustment for the paint. Thanks for the links, I will check them out.

Edited July 11, 2021 by bluestringer

[bluestringer]

9 minutes ago, FLHCAHZ said:

I have found the the paint needs to b real thin

Do you have the single action or the double action. I got the cheaper single action. Yea I'm trying to thin it to be about like milk. I'm thinking about getting a double action internal mix brush, but I guess I need to get the basics down first. What paints are you using. 

[gman]

You can do a little bit of adjustment on the airbrush, but the real magic is in experimenting with your paint thinning and air pressure, combined with varying the distance you spray from the surface being painted. Temperature of your paint and ambient temperature will also play a part. 

Thinning paint to the consistency of milk is a good starting point with enamels and lacquers. If the paint is too thin (or your airbrush is too close to the surface of what is being sprayed, or you are moving the brush too slowly), your paint can run, wick away from high spots and pool. If the paint is too thick, it will sputter, or leave an orange peel texture. If the paint is thin but comes out too grainy and textured, you are likely shooting from too far away, your air pressure is too high, or you are moving the brush too quickly across the surface. 

There are many variables, and for every paint/thinner/airbrush combo (and sometimes even different colours within a familiar line of paints) it will require practice to get good results. Do a test spray on something other than your model- a plastic spoon, a junk body, a bottle or container, what have you, until you know it is thinned correctly, your air pressure is right for the paint, and you are getting good results on the test surface. Don't try to cover everything all in one shot- the beautiful thing about airbrushes is their ability to lay down thin coats, and sometimes that means several sessions will be required to get good coverage, good depth of colour while avoiding runs or too much texture. Some paint types are more forgiving than others and will lay down nice and smooth as they cure.

[DPNM]

It does sound like it has more to do with your paint than your airbrush as Greg has mentioned above. A single action of the type you have is pretty much straight forward.

I only use water base paint for T-Shirts and the like so I'm not that knowledgeable on how to use them for model kit spraying. Sorry, I can't help you there. I have some water base auto paint but I've never taken the time to practice with it. I still prefer using lacquer. I'm old and old habits are hard to break.

I have a small collection of about 40 ABs and I am willing to let some go. If/when you know what you may be considering switching to we may be able to work something out. Send me a PM to discuss possibilities if you are interested.

[bluestringer]

2 hours ago, gman said:

You can do a little bit of adjustment on the airbrush, but the real magic is in experimenting with your paint thinning and air pressure, combined with varying the distance you spray from the surface being painted. Temperature of your paint and ambient temperature will also play a part. 

Thinning paint to the consistency of milk is a good starting point with enamels and lacquers. If the paint is too thin (or your airbrush is too close to the surface of what is being sprayed, or you are moving the brush too slowly), your paint can run, wick away from high spots and pool. If the paint is too thick, it will sputter, or leave an orange peel texture. If the paint is thin but comes out too grainy and textured, you are likely shooting from too far away, your air pressure is too high, or you are moving the brush too quickly across the surface. 

There are many variables, and for every paint/thinner/airbrush combo (and sometimes even different colours within a familiar line of paints) it will require practice to get good results. Do a test spray on something other than your model- a plastic spoon, a junk body, a bottle or container, what have you, until you know it is thinned correctly, your air pressure is right for the paint, and you are getting good results on the test surface. Don't try to cover everything all in one shot- the beautiful thing about airbrushes is their ability to lay down thin coats, and sometimes that means several sessions will be required to get good coverage, good depth of colour while avoiding runs or too much texture. Some paint types are more forgiving than others and will lay down nice and smooth as they cure.

I have been practicing on some spoons and an old body. At one point I did get it doing fairly good with some gloss black acrylic craft paint from Walmart. I got a good smooth finish on a spoon and then shot the roof of the car body and it turned out ok. I had some small parts from a kit I'm working on that needed to be gloss black so I went ahead and shot those, they came out ok. Your advice is well taken, I think I just need to concentrate on the basics and not the brush itself. I am going to get some better paints to try. 

[bluestringer]

59 minutes ago, DPNM said:

It does sound like it has more to do with your paint than your airbrush as Greg has mentioned above. A single action of the type you have is pretty much straight forward.

I only use water base paint for T-Shirts and the like so I'm not that knowledgeable on how to use them for model kit spraying. Sorry, I can't help you there. I have some water base auto paint but I've never taken the time to practice with it. I still prefer using lacquer. I'm old and old habits are hard to break.

I have a small collection of about 40 ABs and I am willing to let some go. If/when you know what you may be considering switching to we may be able to work something out. Send me a PM to discuss possibilities if you are interested.

I appreciate the offer and will keep it in mind. Right now I'm going to practice on the basics and see how this cheap one holds up. 

[Zippi]

James.  Take a look at this video.  Maybe it will help.  I also use the Passche H single action air brush.  

 

[bluestringer]

Thanks Bob. That was an informative video. I use the Rustoleum 2x primer, I will try to get some of that paint he used. Is the Passche H the brush they sell in Hobby Lobby in the blister pack? 

[DPNM]

If this is the HL pack you are referring to James, no, it is not an H. It is what Paasche calls their EZ Starter AB. It is made from plastic. Other than maybe saying Paasche on it it won't be much different than the one you have from HF.

https://www.hobbylobby.com/Crafts-Hobbies/Model-Kits/Airbrushes/Single-Action-Airbrush-Accessories/p/898

The H shell (body) is metal.

Edited July 12, 2021 by DPNM

[Zippi]

What Jim said.  My local HL does not sell the Paasche H.  Its a very nice air brush for the money.

[Miatatom]

5 hours ago, Zippi said:

James.  Take a look at this video.  Maybe it will help.  I also use the Passche H single action air brush.  

 

I second the recommendation on the Paasche H. It's relatively inexpensive, works great and has 3 different nozzles for spraying adjustability. 

[FLHCAHZ]

18 hours ago, bluestringer said:

Do you have the single action or the double action. I got the cheaper single action. Yea I'm trying to thin it to be about like milk. I'm thinking about getting a double action internal mix brush, but I guess I need to get the basics down first. What paints are you using. 

I use the craft paint from HL or Michaels.  Any of their brands seem to be ok. The airbrush that I use from Harbor Freight is dual action.  I bought the kit that came with the airbrush and compressor.  I think the Windsheild Washer fluid has helped me get the paint thin enough.  It takes many coats to cover with as this as I make it, but the result is oretty good once finished.

[TransAmMike]

I love my Procon 275 .  I have the Paasch H also, but this is my go to guy now.  $110 at Spraygunner.com.

 

Edited July 12, 2021 by TransAmMike

[Jim B]

I didn't even know Harbor Freight carried hobby air brushes.   I've been looking at an Iwata Eclipse HP-CS for a starter air brush, but I haven't pulled the trigger yet.

[my66s55]

1 hour ago, TransAmMike said:

I love my Procon 275 .  I have the Paasch H also, but this is my go to guy now.  $110 at Spraygunner.com.

 

I've had the Paasche H, Neo and Badger. Wasn't happy with any of them. I bought the .05 version of The Mr. Hobby trigger air brush last Fall and two months ago I bought the 275 3.5 one. I use cheap acrylics fro Hobby lobby and Walmart. These air brushes are amazing. Perfect paint job every time.

[Miatatom]

53 minutes ago, my66s55 said:

I've had the Paasche H, Neo and Badger. Wasn't happy with any of them. I bought the .05 version of The Mr. Hobby trigger air brush last Fall and two months ago I bought the 275 3.5 one. I use cheap acrylics fro Hobby lobby and Walmart. These air brushes are amazing. Perfect paint job every time.

I, too have the Procon 0.5 which I use on bodies. Great airbrush! I use the Paasche H for everything else. 

[TransAmMike]

1 hour ago, my66s55 said:

I've had the Paasche H, Neo and Badger. Wasn't happy with any of them. I bought the .05 version of The Mr. Hobby trigger air brush last Fall and two months ago I bought the 275 3.5 one. I use cheap acrylics fro Hobby lobby and Walmart. These air brushes are amazing. Perfect paint job every time.

 

46 minutes ago, Miatatom said:

I, too have the Procon 0.5 which I use on bodies. Great airbrush! I use the Paasche H for everything else. 

And yet another testament for the Procon. Recently I have been using Stynylrez primer (un-thinned) and Createx pearls and it works great. 

If you guys don't have the Iwata handle that fits on the brush you should get it....  makes it a mini spraygun.

[bluestringer]

I wonder if the bottle that came with the harbor freight brush will fit the Passche H. I'm sure the hose will. I can get the H brush only for 36 dollars, I don't need the hose and bottle if the ones I have will work with it. 

[Miatatom]

2 hours ago, TransAmMike said:

If you guys don't have the Iwata handle that fits on the brush you should get it....  makes it a mini spraygun.

Forgot that. Yes, definitely get the Iwata handle.

[Dave G.]

On 7/11/2021 at 12:12 PM, bluestringer said:

It's either spraying too thin or too thick, I can't seem to get it adjusted. When it looks like it going to be ok, it pools in detail parts and is too thin in smooth areas. I'm trying to thin it to be about like milk. The AB is single action, but does have some adjustment for the paint. Thanks for the links, I will check them out.

It will never spray completely right with plain water as thinner, it will spray but not behave right on the model. And washer fluid is a step up but not quite there yet. It will work though. I mix my own formulas depending which craft paint it is as some don't like ipa alcohol. My thinner is loosely based off what Bobby @ Genesis Models put out in a video . I use a couple different brands than he does. My flow aid type varies and my retarded is always Liquitex. My craft paints don't spray a whole lot different than solvent paint in nature.

Ok all that said. If you grab a little paint with whatever you use as a mixing stick and put some on the side of your paint cup it should run back down to the pool of paint below in 1-3 seconds or so and leave a light film behind as it goes.. Too thick it will just kind of stick there, too thin it will run down fast and leave no film behind.

Check your airbrush with plain alcohol or plain water as a test, if it sprays that normal then thin your paint correctly and it should spray that too.

 

[bluestringer]

40 minutes ago, Dave G. said:

It will never spray completely right with plain water as thinner, it will spray but not behave right on the model. And washer fluid is a step up but not quite there yet. It will work though. I mix my own formulas depending which craft paint it is as some don't like ipa alcohol. My thinner is loosely based off what Bobby @ Genesis Models put out in a video . I use a couple different brands than he does. My flow aid type varies and my retarded is always Liquitex. My craft paints don't spray a whole lot different than solvent paint in nature.

Ok all that said. If you grab a little paint with whatever you use as a mixing stick and put some on the side of your paint cup it should run back down to the pool of paint below in 1-3 seconds or so and leave a light film behind as it goes.. Too thick it will just kind of stick there, too thin it will run down fast and leave no film behind.

Check your airbrush with plain alcohol or plain water as a test, if it sprays that normal then thin your paint correctly and it should spray that too.

 

Thanks. I did test with water and it sprays fine. I'm getting there, I mixed some with washer fluid and it seems to work better. I think I just need to get my paint thinned correctly and get my air set right. Some of the paint I got at Walmart was just no good, bad lumpy and would not mix well. I tried some more I had bought and it did much better. I will still get the Paasche H, but I'm going to keep practicing with this one. I may do some small parts with it and maybe an interior, but I don't think I will try it on a body right until I get better with it.