*Rust-Oleum Acrylic Lacquer Spray, Clear Gloss*

[Fat Brian]

17 hours ago, Claude Thibodeau said:

HI!

After the cancellation of Testor's Wet Look clear (a tragedy!), I was experimenting with all sorts of clear, and it occured to me that since Testor's was manufactured by Rustoleum, maybe some of the "corporate" clear might have the same viscosity, which is so critical to the way the Wet Look flows and shines. So, I tried the whole family of Rusto's clear.

Nothing quite similar to WLC. But, when I saw this one, with the black chair on it, I tried it on test panels pained with Tamya's TS gloss black. 

Well, it has reasonnable shine, flows well, and presents very little orange peel. BUT... IT is VERY HOT. After 2 tack coats, I tried a wet coat, and the Tamya's black almost washed away! So, be warned: light coats only. 

So far, the best alternative I found is Mr. Hobby Super clear. Flows well, doen't run, polishes well. I understand they have also a "Gloss coat clear", to be used as a flash coat, but I can't find it locally. When I do, I'll try it!

Maybe some user can comment?

CT 

I agree with this also, I've had to strip two bodies after using this clear caused removed emblems to ghost through the paint.

[TransAmMike]

6 hours ago, Zippi said:

I know Mike faught this paint issue on his 55 pickup but it turned out great in the end after some hard work.  It takes experience and talant to correct a major paint issue and Mike has both. 

Thanks for the kind comments Bob. And the Willy's paint looks great. Beeeeautiful red.

[Dave G.]

2 hours ago, Fat Brian said:

I agree with this also, I've had to strip two bodies after using this clear caused removed emblems to ghost through the paint.

The green can with black chair Mike ? I've use that in my wood working and on models over craft acrylics and artist acrylics with no issue at all. And it buffs up super easy. These days though I've mostly been using Tamiya X-22 through the H on a body finish if any clear at all..

Someone mentioned clear over Tamiya X-1 black, on old classic cars that stuff is great as is, it doesn't need clear just buff it up.

I can't speak on Createx though, still haven't used it probably never will. We each have our own ways and systems though.

Edited August 5, 2021 by Dave G.

[Fat Brian]

16 minutes ago, Dave G. said:

The green can with black chair Mike ? I've use that in my wood working and on models over craft acrylics and artist acrylics with no issue at all. And it buffs up super easy. These days though I've mostly been using Tamiya X-22 through the H on a body finish if any clear at all..

Someone mentioned clear over Tamiya X-1 black, on old classic cars that stuff is great as is, it doesn't need clear just buff it up.

I can't speak on Createx though, still haven't used it probably never will. We each have our own ways and systems though.

The acrylic lacquer with the green circle on the can.

[AMT68]

Sprayed this '69 Chevelle earlier in the week with Rust-Oleum Acrylic Lacquer over a Dupli-Color shade and the shine is better than the '64 Impala I sprayed in the spring. Bob's '41 Willys came out much nicer straight out of the can than mine which required a great deal  of wet sanding to produce a shine. Nevertheless think I'll be using this product more often in the future especially since Bob has shown it can be successfully sprayed over Tamiya paints which I frequently use. 

[Zippi]

30 minutes ago, AMT68 said:

Sprayed this '69 Chevelle earlier in the week with Rust-Oleum Acrylic Lacquer over a Dupli-Color shade and the shine is better than the '64 Impala I sprayed in the spring. Bob's '41 Willys came out much nicer straight out of the can than mine which required a great deal  of wet sanding to produce a shine. Nevertheless think I'll be using this product more often in the future especially since Bob has shown it can be successfully sprayed over Tamiya paints which I frequently use. 

That turned out nice Tom.  Can't wait to wet sand my 41 Willy's to see how much better the finish will be.

[Painted Black]

This stuff is extremely sensitive to humidity, it's 79 degrees and 54% humidity, well within the recommended range on the can, and it went flat within 5 minutes. Comments?

[Zippi]

41 minutes ago, Painted Black said:

This stuff is extremely sensitive to humidity, it's 79 degrees and 54% humidity, well within the recommended range on the can, and it went flat within 5 minutes. Comments?

Which clear and what do you mean it went flat?

[Painted Black]

12 minutes ago, Zippi said:

Which clear and what do you mean it went flat?

The red can, at first it looked nice and glossy like the Chevelle above, then all of a sudden the gloss turned flat. 

[Zippi]

16 minutes ago, Painted Black said:

The red can, at first it looked nice and glossy like the Chevelle above, then all of a sudden the gloss turned 

I painted a body one time after it had just stopped raining and it did the same thing.  This was before I knew about the humidity.

 

[AMT68]

1 hour ago, Painted Black said:

This stuff is extremely sensitive to humidity, it's 79 degrees and 54% humidity, well within the recommended range on the can, and it went flat within 5 minutes. Comments?

It seemed as though the shine and clarity of the clear on the Chevelle was not as good after a couple hours of spraying. In part that may have had to do with the smoothness of the base coat and my technique which I continue to refine. 

I did spend a lot of time in order to achieve that finish. And the clear was applied just over an hour after the base since the Dupli-color can recommended to wait at least 30 minutes before applying the clear.

Also for the record the temperature was slightly higher than yours and the humidity about or slightly less. 

Edited August 6, 2021 by AMT68

[Zippi]

I let the Tamiya Italian red lacquer cure for 2 days on the 41 Willy's before I shot the clear.  I'm letting the clear cure for 3 or 4 days before I wet sand.  I don't want to take any chances.

[AMT68]

I'll wait longer next time just see if there is a difference in the appearance of the clear when using an automotive base coat.  When using a Tamiya color coat I usually wait up to a week for it to cure just to be safe. 

Edited August 6, 2021 by AMT68

[TransAmMike]

Wow Tom, thats one heck of a smooth job on the Chevelle.  I loved the Rusto Acrylic Crystal Clear until my last 2 applications over Createx Wicked Acrylic.  In my latest apps of it, I really think the Createx needs to dry about 5 days minimum (but my impatience got the better of me) or you get checking.  I have yet to have a problem with flattening but it does lose a bit of luster when it dries. A good polishing brings most of the shine back tho.  

[AMT68]

Thanks Mike. I seem to get checking even when I do allow more time for the base to cure so I'm being particularly mindful of the ambient conditions and my application technique. While I don't mind taking my time wet sanding I really need to reduce the amount of time being spent producing a nice shine. 

[TransAmMike]

7 minutes ago, AMT68 said:

Thanks Mike. I seem to get checking even when I do allow more time for the base to cure so I'm being particularly mindful of the ambient conditions and my application technique. While I don't mind taking my time wet sanding I really need to reduce the amount of time being spent producing a nice shine. 

Well I'm pretty dissappointed to here you too had problems.   I have been bragging on this stuff and reccommending it.  I have used it on several models without issue over Createx Pearl (my 71 Cutlass), Duplicolor (one model),  and craft paint ( a couple of models).  But now I had checking issues on my last two paint jobs when using the same Createx Wicked Color paint on each one.. Now I wonder if it's the Wicked Color line of Createx.  Hmmmm.

[AMT68]

5 minutes ago, TransAmMike said:

Well I'm pretty dissappointed to here you too had problems.   I have been bragging on this stuff and reccommending it.  I have used it on several models without issue over Createx Pearl (my 71 Cutlass), Duplicolor (one model),  and craft paint ( a couple of models).  But now I had checking issues on my last two paint jobs when using the same Createx Wicked Color paint on each one.. Now I wonder if it's the Wicked Color line of Createx.  Hmmmm.

I'm impressed with the depth of the shine I was able to produce (better than with other clears that also checked)  so I would continue to use it and  refine the technique I'm using. I also like that it is very durable and holds up well to wet sanding. I'm assuming the Createx is shot through an airbrush which I don't have so I couldn't test it out to see what results I might get. 

[Painted Black]

My base coat is MM Lacquer that was sprayed over 7 years ago and it is smooth,  I plan on trying again as soon as the humidity goes down some, which is unlikely here in the mountains of East Tenn. I also have a body that I painted 6 months ago with Dupli-Color, I may use it as a test, if that fails I'll most likely go back to Future...Man I miss the old enamels! Thanks for the help

Current temp and humidity here; 66 degrees and 89% h

Edited August 6, 2021 by Painted Black

[Fat Brian]

13 hours ago, Painted Black said:

This stuff is extremely sensitive to humidity, it's 79 degrees and 54% humidity, well within the recommended range on the can, and it went flat within 5 minutes. Comments?

That's called blushing and is a response to humidity. In most cases you can polish it and remove that thin layer and get to the good shiny underneath. 

[Painted Black]

Here is the car I sprayed, it had more shine before I sprayed it 

26 minutes ago, Fat Brian said:

That's called blushing and is a response to humidity. In most cases you can polish it and remove that thin layer and get to the good shiny underneath. 

Thanks, I'll wait and see how the humidity goes before I try polish, I don't get along with the polish to well!!

[Fat Brian]

22 minutes ago, Painted Black said:

Here is the car I sprayed, it had more shine before I sprayed it 

Thanks, I'll wait and see how the humidity goes before I try polish, I don't get along with the polish to well!!

You can also respray it on a day with lower humidity, the new coat covers over the flat areas. It can also help to bring it back in the ac after spraying it. Here's the Thunderbolt I built a few months back using the same clear, I didn't think I'd ever finish foiling this thing.

[slusher]

Is there a problem with Testors One coat lacquer? I have 3 cans left from a while back.  

[Painted Black]

9 minutes ago, slusher said:

Is there a problem with Testors One coat lacquer? I have 3 cans left from a while back.  

Not that I know of, it also has the humidity problem even when sprayed within the recommended humidity/temp range.

[slusher]

10 hours ago, Painted Black said:

Not that I know of, it also has the humidity problem even when sprayed within the recommended humidity/temp range.

Thanks

[Zippi]

I got the 41 Willy's wet sanded and polished this morning.  The wet sanding (after curing for 5 days) wet fine on the Rust-Oleum lacquer clear.  This is what I was a little worried about.  I was a little disappointed in the final results of my paint and clear coat.  The products worked fine it's just my lack of skills I guess.