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Chevy Scottsdale molding


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I would use Evergreen plastic strips. 1mm or 1.5mm wide and .2mm or so thick looks close. Sand the point at the front into it then glue it down with something like Tamiya thin or Bondene. For the silver part I would glue a round rod about .3mm around the edge of the flat strip. This should get you in the ballpark at least, if you have actual measurements for the trim you could get it closer.

Edited by Fat Brian
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58 minutes ago, Fat Brian said:

I would use Evergreen plastic strips. 1mm or 1.5mm wide and .2mm or so thick looks close. Sand the point at the front into it then glue it down with something like Tamiya thin or Bondene. For the silver part I would glue a round rod about .3mm around the edge of the flat strip. This should get you in the ballpark at least, if you have actual measurements for the trim you could get it closer.

I don’t have measurements unfortunately that would definitely help, I’m building both of these vehicles that were my Dads, I have an extra cab so at least I have a tester cab….

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Similarly I would use Evergreen, but a flat length with a half round on top of it but not as wide for the black.  Both sanded to shape and depth.  If a definite distinguishable seam is wanted then you can scribe around the edges of the half round.

 

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I would follow the suggestions from both Brian and Joe with a little change to the chrome parts surrounding the black molding. I would suggest using quarter round for the outer moldings. My reason for this is the trim was the same thickness all the way across on the 1:1.  GM used an aluminum molding for the trim with an indentation in the center for the black plastic type trim. The quarter round trim would give you a flat surface to the center and the mounting side of the part you're adding. As for the size a lot of that can be done by eye. You have some great looking photos to work with. You may have to mock up a couple of different sizes but I think you'll know when you have the correct sizes when you see them. There is also a molding that runs around the back side of the cab below the rear window. Looking at your picture of the pickup with the camper shell you can see a very small portion where the meets the door. The drip moldings over the doors were a brushed aluminum type finish. The grill moldings were chrome but the grill its self was painted Argent, GM's term for flat silver. 

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I'm going to have to take a trip to HL and look at the evergreen they have in stock to get an idea of the size I want and look up what is available . I guess the hardest part really will be figuring the size out so I'm not buying a bunch of different sizes I don't need...

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38 minutes ago, SCRWDRVR said:

I'm going to have to take a trip to HL and look at the evergreen they have in stock to get an idea of the size I want and look up what is available . I guess the hardest part really will be figuring the size out so I'm not buying a bunch of different sizes I don't need...

Keep in mind that HL only stocks a fraction of what is available from Evergreen. Check the Evergreen website and you may have to order it from a hobby shop.

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5 hours ago, SCRWDRVR said:

I don’t have measurements unfortunately that would definitely help, I’m building both of these vehicles that were my Dads, I have an extra cab so at least I have a tester cab….

How's your math these days?

The lens is 7 ½” tall.

1448808847_lens2.jpg.d3068537de69b7f33593b5004724126d.jpg

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14 minutes ago, mikemodeler said:

Keep in mind that HL only stocks a fraction of what is available from Evergreen. Check the Evergreen website and you may have to order it from a hobby shop.

Definitely  I want to see what they have to reference the size, I’m sure I will have to order what I get

8 minutes ago, Foghorn Leghorn said:

How's your math these days?

The lens is 7 ½” tall.

1448808847_lens2.jpg.d3068537de69b7f33593b5004724126d.jpg

knowing that and just looking I would say that molding is about 2” thanks it helps know the size of the tail lights

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20 minutes ago, Foghorn Leghorn said:

How's your math these days?

The lens is 7 ½” tall.

1448808847_lens2.jpg.d3068537de69b7f33593b5004724126d.jpg

Lets see if I can figure this out...  7.5" / 3.75 =2"  / 25 = .08"  (assuming we are reducing it to 1/25 scale)

 

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25 minutes ago, Beans said:

Lets see if I can figure this out...  7.5" / 3.75 =2"  / 25 = .08"  (assuming we are reducing it to 1/25 scale)

 

I did 7.5" ÷ 3.5 = 2.14"

Knowing that GM did everything except a few ignition components in fractional dimensions at the time, i rounded off to 2 & 1/8".

2" to 2.12" is a difference of only .005" in 1/25 scale.

So yes, 2" if not perfect is close enough! 😃

I've never contracted for such a thing but i'd look into having this molding 3D printed just because i like short cuts.

 

 

 

Edited by Foghorn Leghorn
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2" sounds good, the kits are 1/24th but close enough. I'm on  a budget so having them made by a 3D printer is probably a bit out of my budget but I don't mind trying to make them...

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You might want to see if you can find any Scottsdale pickups running around in your area to take measurements for the side moldings. They may be hard to find due to age but this would give you the correct measurements. As for materials for the moldings don't rule out Plastruct produces. I have used both and I think the quality is much the same and any well stocked hobby shop should be able to supply either or both products. As always there is the internet shopping. 

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2 hours ago, espo said:

 

You might want to see if you can find any Scottsdale pickups running around in your area to take measurements for the side moldings. They may be hard to find due to age but this would give you the correct measurements. As for materials for the moldings don't rule out Plastruct produces. I have used both and I think the quality is much the same and any well stocked hobby shop should be able to supply either or both products. As always there is the internet shopping. 

That's a good idea I don't recall seeing one around but I'll have to keep a look out for one.... I will check out Plastruct also Thanks

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  • 3 weeks later...

I think the pointed tip of the fender molding is closer to the front vertical edge of the marker lamp. Trim the back edge of your piece and line  up the point with the front of the marker lamp.

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17 minutes ago, ZTony8 said:

I think the pointed tip of the fender molding is closer to the front vertical edge of the marker lamp. Trim the back edge of your piece and line  up the point with the front of the marker lamp.

Got ya, yeah looks like I did go a touch to far forward...

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9 hours ago, slusher said:

true your very close. You did a pretty nice job. Did you you glue it down all the way..?

Thanks, I glued it down with white glue and I’m hoping the paint will lock it down….

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The picture is a little dark to see all of the detail, but what I see looks good. A thought on the molding painting. You mention painting the moldings and I think the semi gloss Black would be the most ideal finish for that. The outer edges of the moldings would be a chrome type finish. Would it be easier for you to paint the center of the molding and then go over the molding with chrome foil and cut away the center, or try a liquid chrome treatment for the outer edges ? Should you go with the foil option think about just doing one body panel at a time. Being right handed I usually would start with the left front fender, then the door, and then the bed side. Part of this is to keep the door edge detail and less chance of the foil bunching up and getting any wrinkles I have found.  

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2 hours ago, espo said:

The picture is a little dark to see all of the detail, but what I see looks good. A thought on the molding painting. You mention painting the moldings and I think the semi gloss Black would be the most ideal finish for that. The outer edges of the moldings would be a chrome type finish. Would it be easier for you to paint the center of the molding and then go over the molding with chrome foil and cut away the center, or try a liquid chrome treatment for the outer edges ? Should you go with the foil option think about just doing one body panel at a time. Being right handed I usually would start with the left front fender, then the door, and then the bed side. Part of this is to keep the door edge detail and less chance of the foil bunching up and getting any wrinkles I have found.  

I think the foil (BMF) is definitely the way to go for the outside chrome, My hopes by foiling over the whole thing is to lose some of the depth of the transition between the outer part and the center since on the 1:1 it is not very deep. I did separate the molding per panel so I agree doing each panel at a time will be best.

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