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*Revell 1929 Ford Model A Roadster*


Zippi
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1 hour ago, tim boyd said:

Bob....I'm partial to Testors or Tamiya Flat Red, thinned and flowed into the recessed areas of those hubcaps...

DSC 0089

However, since your steelies wheels are already red, flat black might be a better choice for your hubcap lettering.  When doing this, I seem to have better luck with the Testors Flat Black Enamel, thinned with their Testors Thinner, than I do with thinned Tamiya Flat Black.  Not sure why, but the Testors Flat Black ends up looking better to my eye. 

Best wishes for your continued progress....TIM   

Thanks for the info Tim.

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Had a chance to get back on the 29 this morning only to find out the windshield frame is toast.  I have two kits so I pulled the other kit out and it has the same issue.  Not sure just how or if I can repair these frames.  Anyone have this issue on your 29 and if so how did you fix the problem?  Thanks guys. 

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That's a real shame but I do have one suggestion. My 1:1 roadster has no frame along the top of the glass, a look I really like.  I copied another roadster from the sixties that made a real impact on me when I was a teenager.  If you cut the badly bent top frame away and then gently massaged the lower frame that doesn't look so bad, I reckon you could get there.  I would also someone how stick the frame down to a piece of glass and then use Modge Plodge to stick the "glass" into the frame to make it one solid unit before you attach it to the body.

A second version would be to cut the top and bottom frames away entirely, glue the posts to the cowl and let dry over a few days and then use thin strip or maybe polished aluminium wire to replace the horizontal elements.  

It's going to be one of those joyless jobs but if you get to save a kit then the smile will come back.

I wonder if this is happening only to the recent re-issue?  I bought six of the initial release and didn't experience this problem.

Hope that helps

Alan

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27 minutes ago, alan barton said:

That's a real shame but I do have one suggestion. My 1:1 roadster has no frame along the top of the glass, a look I really like.  I copied another roadster from the sixties that made a real impact on me when I was a teenager.  If you cut the badly bent top frame away and then gently massaged the lower frame that doesn't look so bad, I reckon you could get there.  I would also someone how stick the frame down to a piece of glass and then use Modge Plodge to stick the "glass" into the frame to make it one solid unit before you attach it to the body.

A second version would be to cut the top and bottom frames away entirely, glue the posts to the cowl and let dry over a few days and then use thin strip or maybe polished aluminium wire to replace the horizontal elements.  

It's going to be one of those joyless jobs but if you get to save a kit then the smile will come back.

I wonder if this is happening only to the recent re-issue?  I bought six of the initial release and didn't experience this problem.

Hope that helps

Alan

I appreciate the info Alan but both frames are just warped to bad on the top and bottom. I hit it with a heat gun and tried to bend it a little straighter but it snapped.   I know everyone says this is a nice kit but I have had nothing but problems.  I had the body and frame painted (both were painted at the same time) a nice red but they are two totally different colors. I sanded the frame down on the sides and re-shot it but got the same results.  Now my only option is to paint the frame black which I really don't want to do.

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Made me look. I also just picked up this model a week ago. I hadn't looked inside yet as I usually do since I'm not going to build it right now. Luck was on my side as mine is ok. Hopefully this is an isolated issue, I know that doesn't help you guys or anyone else, but maybe not all of them have this problem. Revell should offer a replacement windshield in this case.  

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50 minutes ago, espo said:

Made me look. I also just picked up this model a week ago. I hadn't looked inside yet as I usually do since I'm not going to build it right now. Luck was on my side as mine is ok. Hopefully this is an isolated issue, I know that doesn't help you guys or anyone else, but maybe not all of them have this problem. Revell should offer a replacement windshield in this case.  

Glad you got a good windshield Dave.  I had a cracked windshield on my 56 Ford pickup I bought a few months ago and contacted Revell for a replacement and about 6 weeks later I received it.  So, with that being said I contacted them once again asking for two windshields for the 29 Roadster.  This project will be on the back burner until I here from Revell.  

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2 minutes ago, Zippi said:

Glad you got a good windshield Dave.  I had a cracked windshield on my 56 Ford pickup I bought a few months ago and contacted Revell for a replacement and about 6 weeks later I received it.  So, with that being said I contacted them once again asking for two windshields for the 29 Roadster.  This project will be on the back burner until I here from Revell.  

I have only had to ask Revell to replace very few damaged items in the past but they have always been good about it. 

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4 minutes ago, espo said:

I have only had to ask Revell to replace very few damaged items in the past but they have always been good about it. 

Yup.  I've only ask for a replacement one time before from Revell so I'm hoping for the best and expecting the worst.  Their website did say they were not shipping to currently to the US due to Covid so it may be some time.

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9 hours ago, Zippi said:

Had a chance to get back on the 29 this morning only to find out the windshield frame is toast.  I have two kits so I pulled the other kit out and it has the same issue.  Not sure just how or if I can repair these frames.  Anyone have this issue on your 29 and if so how did you fix the problem?  Thanks guys. 

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I had an issue with mine though the bottom wasn't quite as bad. I tried to straiten it with some heat to no avail. I ended up doing as Alan suggested and Removing the top bar. spacer.png

Edited by Varen
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22 hours ago, Varen said:

I had an issue with mine though the bottom wasn't quite as bad. I tried to straiten it with some heat to no avail. I ended up doing as Alan suggested and Removing the top bar. spacer.png

Thank's for the info Michael.  I cut the top bar off and also tried cutting the bottom bar and gluing it back together trying to get it a little straighter but not it's not looking good.  I just don't think it's going to be usable.  

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I got a response from Revell on my two warped windshields and this is what they had to say.  I replyed to their email to let them know I needed two replacement windshields since they only referred to one.    

Dear Sirs,

 we will send the part free of charge to your address.

 Shipping information: Shipping time at the moment for USA needs up to 6 weeks

and for all other Countries needs up to 3 week. 

 

 Mit freundlichen Grüßen / Best regards


Claudia Nörenberg

 ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
i.A. Claudia Nörenberg
Kundenservice/Consumer Service
Tel.: +49 (0) 5223 965 192
Fax: +49 (0) 5223 965 195                        
Email: 
claudia.noerenberg@revell.de
Web: www.revell.de
Revell GmbH
Henschelstr. 
20-30
D-32257 Bünde
Bünde Sitz: Bünde / Amtsgericht Bad Oeynhausen HRB 10158
Geschäftsführer: Stefan Krings

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Logo_Revell_Standard55

 

 Von: Revell GmbH <service@revell.de>
Gesendet: Dienstag, 14. September 2021 17:28
An: Revell Service <service@revell.de>
Betreff: Neue Revell Ersatzteilanfrage

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Everything looks great so far Bob, but it's a bummer about the windshield frames. There are few things more frustrating. At least most of the model can be built before the windshield needs to be mounted. If the frame or body were that warped then you'd really be hung out to dry.

I had problems with a short-shot trim piece with a Revell kit in 2010 and they were great to work with. I know that that's ancient history now and many things have changed but hopefully their corporate culture is still intact.

Best of luck with this.

David G.

 

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1 hour ago, David G. said:

Everything looks great so far Bob, but it's a bummer about the windshield frames. There are few things more frustrating. At least most of the model can be built before the windshield needs to be mounted. If the frame or body were that warped then you'd really be hung out to dry.

I had problems with a short-shot trim piece with a Revell kit in 2010 and they were great to work with. I know that that's ancient history now and many things have changed but hopefully their corporate culture is still intact.

Best of luck with this.

David G.

 

Thanks Dave.  Looks like Revell is going to take care of me but it will take a while to get the parts like last time.  

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A time consuming but totally worth approach is to de-chrome all the chrome parts with bleach (Revell's chrome platings are rather too thick), fix the mold lines and other imperfections, then paint them back.  I think you can match the red if you shoot it with white primer first. 

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25 minutes ago, e30lover said:

A time consuming but totally worth approach is to de-chrome all the chrome parts with bleach (Revell's chrome platings are rather too thick), fix the mold lines and other imperfections, then paint them back.  I think you can match the red if you shoot it with white primer first. 

Thanks for the info Chang.

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I got the wheels and tires glued together and the radiator.  I mix up some Testors semi gloss black and lacquer thinner for the black wash.  On the hubcaps I worked the black wash into the lettering with a tooth pick then cleaned it off with a fine point Qtip and lacquer thinner.  For the radiator I brushed the black wash on.  Came out pretty good.   

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I didn’t have any warpage issues with mine. I did however have the chrome peel off of the front axle and the radiator shroud…so I wound up painting it. Be careful if you mask any of the chrome.

http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/159642-‘29-model-a/?tab=comments#comment-2370560

 

Edited by NOBLNG
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1 hour ago, NOBLNG said:

I didn’t have any warpage issues with mine. I did however have the chrome peel off of the front axle and the radiator shroud…so I wound up painting it. Be careful if you mask any of the chrome.

http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/159642-‘29-model-a/?tab=comments#comment-2370560

 

Point taken.  I remember your build Greg.  Nice looking 29.  

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1 hour ago, seabiscut88 said:

I have a couple of these in my stack. Enjoy watching your build and the tips and you have. Can’t wait to see more!

Thanks Colin.

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1 hour ago, slusher said:

Looking good Bob, I am glad Revell are going to replace your Chrome frames..

Thanks Carl.  I'm also glad that Revelll is standing behind their product.

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I have both the original and the re-release versions of this kit in my stash.  Having read of the windshield frame issue I just checked and the "Special Edition" release which has the blown engine option has a warped windshield frame.  I think it's warped beyond use and I will have to get creative and/or contact Revell for a replacement.

Zippi - I really like what you've done with the wheels.  Despite the challenges I'm betting you'll end up with a good looking model.

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14 minutes ago, Andrew McD said:

I have both the original and the re-release versions of this kit in my stash.  Having read of the windshield frame issue I just checked and the "Special Edition" release which has the blown engine option has a warped windshield frame.  I think it's warped beyond use and I will have to get creative and/or contact Revell for a replacement.

Zippi - I really like what you've done with the wheels.  Despite the challenges I'm betting you'll end up with a good looking model.

Thanks Andrew.  I have repacements coming from Revell.  Shoot them an email for your replacement.  Like my grandaddy use to say....hope for the best and expect the worst.

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