Just discovered the Donn Yost paint method - one question

[robdebie]

A couple of days ago I watched Paasche H Airbrush - The Scale Model workhorse by Andy X, and learned about the Donn Yost paint method. Since then I've been doing experiments to see if it would work for me, and the answer is a big yes. I'm very pleased with the results so far, they are by far the smoothest paint jobs that I have ever painted.

My question is whether you can only paint single-color models like this, or is there a way to do multi-color models too? I can't see how to mask a model (or rather how to remove the masking) when you putting on a fat paint coat like this.

Rob

Edited August 24, 2021 by robdebie

[Zippi]

8 minutes ago, robdebie said:

A couple of days ago I watched Paasche H Airbrush - The Scale Model workhorse by Andy X, and learned about the Donn Yost paint method. Since then I've been doing experiments to see if it would work for me, and the answer is a big yes. I'm very pleased with the results so far, they are by far the smoothest paint jobs that I have ever painted.

My question is whether you can only paint single-color models like this, or is there a way to do multi-color models too? I can't see how to mask a model (or rather how to remove the masking) when you putting on a fat paint coat like this.

I did a paint test on a 56 Ford truck body with this method and I liked the results.  I liked it so much I airbrushed my 29 Roadsters the same way.  As you said, best paint job I've done so far.  I'll be watching this.

[Dave G.]

23 minutes ago, Zippi said:

I did a paint test on a 56 Ford truck body with this method and I liked the results.  I liked it so much I airbrushed my 29 Roadsters the same way.  As you said, best paint job I've done so far.  I'll be watching this.

No problem masking at all and doing two tones and more, period. You do have to wait for enamel to cure of course. We were doing this way back in the 1960s and 70's as standard procedure, so Andy and Donn don't exactly have a patent on it lol. Try it in some tests and you will see for yourself.

[Snake45]

27 minutes ago, Dave G. said:

No problem masking at all and doing two tones and more, period. You do have to wait for enamel to cure of course. We were doing this way back in the 1960s and 70's as standard procedure, so Andy and Donn don't exactly have a patent on it lol. Try it in some tests and you will see for yourself.

Agree completely. If you're not clear-coating, wait for the first color enamel to cure thoroughly (3 days should be enough) and polish it out, then mask, apply the second color, wait for cure again, then polish that out before removing the masking. If you're clear-coating, just mask for the second color, shoot it, un-mask when it cures, shoot the whole thing in clear, and then polish the clear. 

[Zippi]

I'm going to airbrush a 56 Ford pickup later today (if the heat is not to bad) with all the big curves using this method again.  I'm going with my hardest color to paint......yup Black.  I primed it in gray yesterday so we'll see how it goes.   

Edited August 25, 2021 by Zippi

[robdebie]

13 hours ago, Snake45 said:

Agree completely. If you're not clear-coating, wait for the first color enamel to cure thoroughly (3 days should be enough) and polish it out, then mask, apply the second color, wait for cure again, then polish that out before removing the masking. If you're clear-coating, just mask for the second color, shoot it, un-mask when it cures, shoot the whole thing in clear, and then polish the clear. 

Thanks for the response!

Doing the polishing with the masking still in place is a smart idea, love it!

But what kind of masking are you using? If I would use Tamiya tape (as an example) I would expect it to be soaked in paint, and becoming very difficult to remove when the paint is fully cured. I would expect a recommendation to remove it quite soon after painting, while the paint is still relatively soft. With a vinyl mask, things would be different, since that material would not absorb the paint. But I don't have vinyl masking tape.

I'm quite willing to experiment, so please let me (us) know, and I will report back.

Rob

Edited August 25, 2021 by robdebie

[robdebie]

14 hours ago, Dave G. said:

No problem masking at all and doing two tones and more, period. You do have to wait for enamel to cure of course. We were doing this way back in the 1960s and 70's as standard procedure, so Andy and Donn don't exactly have a patent on it lol. Try it in some tests and you will see for yourself.

Ah, yes, I'm new to this, and at least the technique has a name 🙂 I'm gathering more plastic for more experiments. Two tones here I come.

Rob

[robdebie]

Just to show where I am, this is the third experiment, where I lowered the pressure a bit, and finally achieved zero orange peel and a very high gloss.

Rob

[peteski]

I don't know the Yost method, but I always airbrush heavy coats. I have never polished any of my models and they are quite glossy.  Not sure why most modelers keep on airbrushing mist coats on their models. If the paint is not applied in a uniform liquid state on the model, it will never dry smooth.

[Rick L]

I’m also not familiar with the Yost method, but have the suspicion that he starts with multiple, light, wet, coats of lacquer until he gets a full uniform look. The light coats give you control of not over spraying any particular spot on the body and being wet will not cure prematurely, causing a dry sandy effect. Each layer dries quickly enough to sand out any dust that may hit the surface. The final coat is then applied in a uniform liquid state as Pete says but then, in the end, a final coat of thinner is immediately applied right on top exactly the same way. The paint will flatten out but not run.  I’m not saying this is the way to go because it does take practice but this model “T” was done that way without polish many years ago.

[DRIPTROIT 71]

I’m asking this question, because I do not know. I have never had good luck mixing lacquer and enamels, although I have never tried with Testors paint. I see you guys are having great results though. What keeps the lacquer thinner from attacking and wrinkling the original enamel coat when you add the second color?

[robdebie]

12 hours ago, peteski said:

I don't know the Yost method, but I always airbrush heavy coats. I have never polished any of my models and they are quite glossy.  Not sure why most modelers keep on airbrushing mist coats on their models. If the paint is not applied in a uniform liquid state on the model, it will never dry smooth.

So true! Misting the paint is NOT the way to a gloss coat. I learned that through experiments years ago. But with a heavy coat you get in the danger zone of runs. It seems that the lacquer thinner avoids that.

Rob

[robdebie]

38 minutes ago, Rick L said:

I’m also not familiar with the Yost method, but have the suspicion that he starts with multiple, light, wet, coats of lacquer until he gets a full uniform look. The light coats give you control of not over spraying any particular spot on the body and being wet will not cure prematurely, causing a dry sandy effect. Each layer dries quickly enough to sand out any dust that may hit the surface. The final coat is then applied in a uniform liquid state as Pete says but then, in the end, a final coat of thinner is immediately applied right on top exactly the same way. The paint will flatten out but not run.  I’m not saying this is the way to go because it does take practice but this model “T” was done that way without polish many years ago.

What you describe comes close to the method, but its not 100% the same. I would suggest watching the video linked in the first post, if you want to see it.

Rob

[robdebie]

15 minutes ago, DRIPTROIT 71 said:

I’m asking this question, because I do not know. I have never had good luck mixing lacquer and enamels, although I have never tried with Testors paint. I see you guys are having great results though. What keeps the lacquer thinner from attacking and wrinkling the original enamel coat when you add the second color?

For the record, I used Humbrol and Revell enamels. I get the impression the method works with whatever enamel paint.

Your question about the second color application wrinkling the first color due to the lacquer thinner, that's a good one! I hope to find out soon.

Rob

[Snake45]

1 hour ago, robdebie said:

Your question about the second color application wrinkling the first color due to the lacquer thinner, that's a good one! I hope to find out soon.

Rob

It is a good question! But I've never had it happen in over 30 years. 

I once tried to craze styrene by airbrushing pure lacquer thinner on it. I found that I had to airbrush it on so heavy it was literally dripping off, and even then the crazing was minor. It seems the LT flashes off so quickly it doesn't really have time to ruin anything if applied with anything approaching a normal painting technique. 

[Dave G.]

3 hours ago, DRIPTROIT 71 said:

I’m asking this question, because I do not know. I have never had good luck mixing lacquer and enamels, although I have never tried with Testors paint. I see you guys are having great results though. What keeps the lacquer thinner from attacking and wrinkling the original enamel coat when you add the second color?

No text: I replied missing some of the question.

 

Edited August 26, 2021 by Dave G.

[Shep]

On 8/24/2021 at 7:06 PM, robdebie said:

A couple of days ago I watched Paasche H Airbrush - The Scale Model workhorse by Andy X, and learned about the Donn Yost paint method. Since then I've been doing experiments to see if it would work for me, and the answer is a big yes. I'm very pleased with the results so far, they are by far the smoothest paint jobs that I have ever painted.

My question is whether you can only paint single-color models like this, or is there a way to do multi-color models too? I can't see how to mask a model (or rather how to remove the masking) when you putting on a fat paint coat like this.

Rob

I just started watching Donn Yost and from the 20 videos and a DVD that I've watched so far the only thing similar here is the 1 to 1 ratio of Testors enamel and lacquer thinner. The fat paint coat is a twist on the Yost method...Yost is doing many thin mist coats allowing the paint to build up slowly. He has a Patreon with 263 posts and MANY of those are 30-40 minute videos where he covers everything about model cars. Well worth the $4 https://www.patreon.com/ScaleModelTechniques/

[robdebie]

22 hours ago, Shep said:

I just started watching Donn Yost and from the 20 videos and a DVD that I've watched so far the only thing similar here is the 1 to 1 ratio of Testors enamel and lacquer thinner. The fat paint coat is a twist on the Yost method...Yost is doing many thin mist coats allowing the paint to build up slowly. He has a Patreon with 263 posts and MANY of those are 30-40 minute videos where he covers everything about model cars. Well worth the $4 https://www.patreon.com/ScaleModelTechniques/

Interesting! You're the first to point out the differences in AndyX's video and Donn Yost. For the moment I'll continue with the 'Andy X' method, it works really well for me, and it is simple and quick.

Rob